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JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 576
Total Points: 998
Last Year: 212
Last 30 Days: 5
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All (719) | Routes (22) | Areas (22) | Photos (50) | Comments (198) | Posts (382) | Stars (37) | Ratings (8)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Moxie (5.8+)
By: JSH When: 20 hours ago

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Comments: Gail, what did you do for a descent?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: JSH When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Thanks, Rich! That's exactly the picture I was thinking of.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Easy Rider (5.9 PG13)
By: JSH When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Really nice job with the route add, guys!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Revenge of the Relics (5.9 PG13)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: As for the protection rating - a good belayer (ahem) can keep you off the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: It looks to me like the green rope(s) are hanging from the GT rappel station, while the obvious vertical red rope is hanging from the mid-cliff bolts. They are over the route Kama Sutra or so.

There is a fainter red rope behind both of those that follows the traversing first pitch of Maria.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : King of P (5.3)
By: JSH When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: I changed the name of this entry to King of P, as Dick called it that in his most recent book. The second pitch described here is still Little White Mushroom, so I've noted that in the description.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Andrew Area : Pure Joy (V2-3)
By: JSH When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: If someone has pre-dated ascent info, post it up, and we'll add it. For now, I've added a "first reported" to the FA line here. Like so many lines, it may well have been climbed before, but props to Serge for heading up into the unknown.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: JSH When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: NB - I did a bunch of editing today, incorporating suggestions and descriptions from above along with my own experience. I also omitted directions to rappel for reasons.

Hopefully next summer I'll add a picture of the route base.

When I first climbed this route aeons ago, we exited left (!) out of the dihedral at the top - it was probably just as good as going right, an exciting 5.fun traverse. With, of course, darkness falling on a party of four.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : 5.8 Crack Climb (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: NB: In the newest guide, Dick describes a different P1 for this route, starting 25' left of Loose Goose's P1. He says: climb crack (5.6, crux) and short slab to ledge, then up slab (5.4 R/X) a bit left of center, then head up and right to join Loose Goose at the ledge below the business (60').


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Android-Moby Dick link-up (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Yes, very nice shot.

I hand-traversed on the rail below the climber's feet (so I did not get the piece under the roof to his right, but got some smaller stuff in the horizontal), then went up the arete to where he is. Was a nice few moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : V-3 (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: There is a beautiful, textbook nut placement midway up the V. And if you can't take a hands-free nap while placing it, well, turn around a little until you can!


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Comment : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey there, good lookin' ...
Oh, wait.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Brian -- my Black Dick says there's a distinct pitch for Moondance, and that the straight-up romp is Sundance.

Peter - thanks for the additions. I originally under-described the pitch on purpose, in the spirit of adventuring, this much further down the cliff.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: According to the guidebook, this was named after the incident with the bus and the hairpin turn on 44/55 in 1981, when the bus was left hanging in space. I wonder if there are pictures in the interwebs somewhere ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JSH When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: You could do Bloody Mary and yank yer rope over below the Drunkard's roof; that route's second pitch traverses almost all the way over to below Drunkard's. I'd be willing to bet you could start up Sixish and wander over there as well. The face is less steep once you get 40-ish feet up. But you'd be tying up several routes at once, so ... consider that.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sultana (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: I second Seth's comment.

edit add: ok, Dana, I'll do it. Sometime. I promise ;-)


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Hope you said something?


Location: CO : A Starry Night by Isabel Su...
By: JSH When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for highlighting this, John. I've just ordered it and am looking forward to reading it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Brian, you're right, and I think I remember that way long ago the first time I climbed there, we did climb a separate first pitch to the right (traversing from the pedastal, maybe?). Then on subsequent visits, the face to the right looked like it had more lichen then protection. I'll take a look at the books and try to straighten it out.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Whet Stone (5.8)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Lots of worthwhile climbing on this pitch! It didn't seem to let up - not as easy as it looks from the ground, for sure.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Route Awakening (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: While most of this pitch was fairly easy, there were a few moves that were surprisingly steep and demanding. Overall, fairly pleasant, and a worthwhile diversion. It will only improve with more traffic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This is on P2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The crux is the right-leaning crack that is directly left of the sentry box.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : V.D. (5.10a/b PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: The route Dick's Prick was added in June 2013, and notes an anchor on top of the pinnacle.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Catnip (5.6 PG13) : Photo (Copy)
By: JSH When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Three of four right-facing corners; Catnip starts with the left-most corner shown here.


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