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Rock Climbing Photo: JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 37 mins ago
Contact JSH

Point Rank: # 694
Total Points: 1,124
Last Year: 59
Last 30 Days: 4
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 914 | Routes 24 | Areas 23 | Photos 56 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 252 | Posts 509 | Stars 39 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Typical Gunks apparel, circa 1980? ;-)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow
By: JSH When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Hi Nick, nice to see you here. Those routes are not listed here simply because no one has added entries for them yet. When someone does create entries for them (hint!, hint!), they'll be voted on by others, and automatically added to the favorites and classics lists. Thanks for the photos you added today!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Fat and Weak (5.7)
By: JSH When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: If the intermediate anchor were better, I'd list the route as 5.6 and just describe the first pitch -- it deserves it. The second pitch, not so much.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: This route horrified my husband, who was onsighting 5.10 at the time. I was also horrified on TR. Not worth it, at all.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Ancient Art of Narcolepsy?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: Arrow trail:
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Arrow approach trail.  Use the New Arrow trail...
Old Arrow approach trail. Use the New Arrow trail instead.



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Unholy Wick (5.8) : Photo (Copy)
By: JSH When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Unholy Wick is in the middle here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: This trail exists, but it's better to take either the V-3 trail just a few feet right, or the Mme G's trail that is being stoned-up now (summer 2015).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Man's Quest for Flight (5.11-)
By: JSH When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: I succumb to that temptation whenever I can!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Man's Quest for Flight (5.11-)
By: JSH When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Hm. Years, likely 5 of them. We started as for Andrew, on top of the scrambling ledge. I remember an interesting move or two up a R-facing corner (and something about bees), moving up it and then left to get out onto the Silhouette face. Nice climbing up that face, some genuine crack motion, steeper than you'd expect. A bit dirty then, but not terrible. Give it a whirl!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Man's Quest for Flight (5.11-)
By: JSH When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: We've climbed P1 of this on its own -- pretty worthwhile!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ants' Line (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: This photo really captures the steepness well. Most photos from the base make it look much slabbier than it really is.

Like Seth, I don't use that face hold for hands. But my "thank GOD!" pocket is nicely visible here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : On Any Monday (5.11-)
By: JSH When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: I think that might be right, Ken, Scott (monk) has just a little more reach than I do and I remember being just unable to reach the holds he did.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Photo
By: JSH When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for getting these, Kurtz!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Dis-Mantel (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Ouch, Jon, that sounds pretty close to the dirt.

I'm short: 5'6" with a -2" apespan. The first roof has always shut me down on toprope. I think I climbed it once or twice when I was a 5.9 leader, but maybe not even then.

Speaking of toprope, if you think your second will flail like me, be sure to use the horizontal under the 2nd roof to arrange the rope such that it is over the first roof (not to the right of the first roof).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: JSH When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: To be fair, the Improve function was added in 2014.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Son of Easy O (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Losbill's comment may have been a bit sarcastic. For some interesting reading on why he may feel that way, grab a PBR and read up here.

From that thread, these three angles replaced this:





Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: JSH When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: From the other (awesome) pictures in the series, it seems like Denis was hanging on rappel from a rope to the side.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : p. Little Havana : Motorcycle Diarrhias (5.10)
By: JSH When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Taino, who is the FA? I'd like to add a name here if possible. The GB for Peterskill doesn't list FA info, so it is sadly missing 'round here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Morning After (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Once you get up to the right-facing corner up higher, the key thing is that the climbing eases off by a grade or 3 just one move higher. If you've gotten that far, you're quite unlikely to fall, and, well -- don't, because you're pretty darn high above your last -decent- gear. There's decent gear in a horizontal one move higher (that still depends on the flake itself), and then you make a few moves left to a stance.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Junior (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the note, Jay. I'm 5'6+" with a negative ape index, and .... yeah, harder than 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: JSH When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: This sounds an awful lot like Phoebe. Can you describe how they're different?


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : c. LA Roof : Acute Corner (5.7)
By: JSH When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Gear was more R than PG.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Twilight Zone (5.13b C1) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Photo credit?


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