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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this recently, onsight. I spent a lot of time fussing with gear from the stance. A tiny nut seemed the best, but I equalized two cams as well. I didn't fall on the nest, and hurried to the bolt. But I agree that it takes away from the climb where it is. There is a good nut placement right next to the bolt. So, why is it there?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Whipping Post (5.11d)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The traverse is fine, although I'm not sure about why it goes up where it does, looked like an easier line above the second bolt. The crux was thin, and theres some definite slab climbing going on in the top half. I didn't like the placement of the last two bolts. The second to last seemed low (would have been nice to rethink the placements when it was rebolted) and the last was too high to clip before making the mantle, and too in your face as you are standing up. Still, it's much nicer to... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Girlfriend's Backside (V7)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This came up in the new *classics* feature, but has a "V?" grade because of one annonymous coward rating. Can the admin for the area fix this?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: Joshua Merriam When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blockhead is between I. and J.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Blockhead (5.12b)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack in the corner, and everything to the right of the corner should be considered off. Anything else disrespects the roof.
It's a great roof, albeit squeezed. The first 2 or 3 bolts are the same as Joint Venture. Then moving out right into the big roof, there's some powerful shouldery moves, a long reach or jump to the matchable crimp out left, and some good knee tricknology to surmount the final roof section. I'd like to add another bolt after standing up above the roof instead of... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Joint Venture (5.11a)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re: Robb M.
Blockhead .12+.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Pinch Overhang (V5)
By: Joshua Merriam When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first time I went to Rotary, I was disappointed to find that the Pinch overhang started with a jump (same for the Right eliminator problems). I was not satisfied that I had done the problem until I established on the wall with both feet statically, before reaching for the lip.
The problem has a famous history, but has been done in better style since. Therefore I believe the proper Pinch overhang to be V7, and the jump start (Gill) version to be V5. There also looks to be a lower possib... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : Lower Chaos Canyon
By: Joshua Merriam When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could an admin move my entries to the new area?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Black Pearl (5.13)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The holds start out quite good, but around the 4th bolt it gets really thin. Then I assume it goes left after the fifth bolt to get to the top of Scorpions for the anchor.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Binge and Purge (5.11b)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this climb! I'm alsways looking for interesting squeezes, and this one takes the cake. I scratched up my harness buckle pulling myself up through the roof, and found it much better when I re-did the route in a swami belt. It's tight!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Coffin Crack (5.10b)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was able to do a fist jam to get into the offwidth (and I hate fist jams). Then a few less than happily secure offwidth type moves (but with a good foothold) and you get to jugs again. Short in the business, but a good testpiece.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right side in, I found plenty of good holds on the sidewall to help, and some solid handjams. There's still plenty of chicken winging.
Josh L. replaced the bolt last night during our Tuesday night offwidth assault meeting.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Doughboy Boulder : Doughboy (V7)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A proper sit start, matched on the pocket is so obvious, but does not add to the grade.
This is indeed a great problem. Makes me want to tip over some more of the boulders at Carter and see what's under 'em.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : ... : Photo
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That rusty 1/4 bolt with no hanger didn't inspire a lot of confidence.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Gunky (5.11b PG13)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went to go look at the underside of the Like Heaven pinnacle and thought that the route heading up the final overhang was the finish for Gunky. It has at least two pitons near the base of the overhang where one would traverse in from the left, and would take gear in the cracks up the center, topping out on the very tip.
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Location: James Beissel : Umph Slot Assault : Photo
By: Joshua Merriam When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the one that sells it. She's having fun, we're all chillin.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : The Guardian (5.12d)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The closure sign is on a tree which is beyond this route. Also, the OSMP site specifically mentions Ridges 2, 3, 4 but NOT Ridge 1, which is where the Guardian is located.
Checking with a ranger would be prudent, but I believe this climb to not be affected by the closure.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Parking next to the dam was a go yesterday. Although half the parking lot was off limits by concrete barriers.
The water level was pretty low, exposing an excellent quality rock with many awesome V3-V8 problems one after the other. It's another 100ft lower on the shoreline than Kahuna.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: MP is a resource for its users to share info on climbing areas. I added several problems once I saw the area posted. I've recently started bouldering up in Chaos when I get the chance, and swapping beta, names, pictures, etc. Adds to my enjoyment. And I'd like to help others find and enjoy said problems.
(edit: Chaos is a sensitive environment and boulderers must tread lightly and be good stewards whilst in the park)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhere up near the top of this outing we encountered a 20ft tall, 40ft wide boulder with a completely isolated top. The back corner came within ~5ft of the main wall, with a Do-or-die gap jump between you and it. We called this "Satan's Leap" and thought it added to the adventure significantly.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Armed Forces (5.11b)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like the opening move, overhung, but great holds. And up top there's a totally unique block with a hole through it. Traverse back L at the top before the anchor for the easiest holds. I didn't feel an 11 move on the route, although it's some good pulling on not always jugs. Good climbing, mostly great holds, sparsely bolted.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the same boulder as Blowin the Hatch?
How do you start - heel hooked, or with feet on the lower boulder-piece?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Leap of Faith (5.12d)
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wasn't able to find the right body position to dyno from the sidepull to the top, but I found that I could get to the top static utilizing a sharp one finger crimp for the right hand, above the last bolt.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Photo
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dane! he put that sticker on there. We were doing triple shots
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Location: zack smith : album : Photo
By: Joshua Merriam When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: added Revenge to Chaos along with others today, maybe post your photo?
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