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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Stigmata (5.13a)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, from the belay you do some unprotected climbing up suspect rock and then clip the "new" (replaced) bolt. From here, you enter the dihedral itself which has a couple fixed pins and wires in it, but you'll want additional gear (small stuff) to protect the hard 5.12 climbing up the dihedral before heading out to the arete.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As the person who submitted this photo and route, and as the person in the photo actually climbing the route, I have a few things to say.
First, Paul made a comment about ethics "evolving/devolving" and I would most definitely take the vocal stance that placing bolts where good natural pro is available is shameful. That said, I don't agree with the people complaining about the presence of bolts in this particular case. I have done this pitch several times and I don't remember there being tons... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Reckoning (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could the last pitch of the Reckoning be approached by scrambling up the east side of the West Ridge from the Redgarden Trail? Or, is there an expedient way to reach the Reckoning without climbing Handcracker?
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: SPRAY ALERT!
;) :)
Seriously, nice send Mike. I reckon it would only be 5.13 though if you stayed in the corner on the first pitch. You should work on Lost Horizon.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will,
I'm sorry you're disappointed that my description for Mill Creek doesn't live up to the standards of my other contributions to Mountain Project, but I'm not going to change it and here's why:
First, I should note that I'm not the one who submitted the Mill Creek area - it was a terrible one line description which I adopted in order to actually improve upon. After discussion with locals and other admin-type folks on the site, rather than spell out every detail of Mill Creek, I chose to in... more >>
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : There Will Be Blood (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations JJ! I wanted to be the first to say so; it was awesome hearing your victory shouts this afternoon. What a line!
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heart the Super Forks.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please re-publish with the first-bolt crux beta unobscured by climbing gear. I've figured everything else out on the climb but find getting past the entry moves impossible. Thanks,
-Frustrated In The Flatirons
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Other Mill Creek Areas : Sepultura (5.12b R)
By: Josh Janes When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three bolts to a #3 Camalot with a long sling to six more bolts. Past the last bolt there's a horizontal that might take a 0.4 or a 0.5 Camalot. 70m cord required. Bring a knife and a pair of quick links to update the death anchor. Great route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall : Sting (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route! I can't believe this line wasn't climbed years ago!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Scary Canary (5.12b/c R)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob led P1 without clipping ANY of the fixed pro... just for kicks. You bad ass!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I assume you mean the belay at the start of the pitch? I seem to remember not having too much trouble finding gear there... but we always approached by rapping in from above and setting up the anchor at a natural starting point just up and left from one of the Bastille Crack belays.
When I was working this route, one of my partners, who will remain unnamed and happened to be wearing my bright orange down jacket, had to relieve himself while I was climbing. Despite my protests he proceeded to ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Tango (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Four star classic when combined with Crazy Fingers or Foxtrot (the more natural line is from Crazy Fingers, but Tango is significantly easier. In fact, I think Tango is significantly easier than even Parallels.... I would have called it 5.11b?). Nice job on scoring this sweet FA!!!
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Fortress of Solitude : Metropolis Sector : Metropollis (5.12c)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 60m cord, it is no problem to lower off the top down to the anchor on Shazam. From here, pull the rope and lower again down to the ground (60m rope just barely reaches). A total of 16 bolts plus the anchor & I'd call this rig 12c tech/endurance (no individual moves are very hard). Are the extensive walls way to the left of the Fortress (highly visible on the hike in) developed? So much potential!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would it be possible to climb this route (comfortably) in December/January?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some thoughts on Zeus...
First, regarding the Northeast Ridge: I'm not sure what's more lame, chopping a route or drilling one up a completely blank face with no regard to natural features. Right now, all the bolts (except the anchors) have been chopped (not pulled) and it is an ugly mess. If anyone were to replace them (which they shouldn't), perhaps they could at least be moved a little to the left near the arete -- this feature might actually be free climbable.
Second, because the anchors ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Elephant Rock : Fatal Mistake (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We rapped from the top of Pink Dream with a single 70m rope and made it to a good belay stance on a foot ledge. We could sling a flake and use a wide piece for an anchor. If you climb up from here, the climbing is 5.10 with a short 5.11a section.
From here we fixed our second line and rapped down on a single line (a doubled over 70m rope would not reach -- this rap was more like 45 meters long) to slings wrapped around a flake: a natural place to stop. Below this point the crack becomes a ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two raps from the low point on the McHenry's-Arrowhead saddle can be done with a single 70m rope (despite the recommendations for having two 60m ropes in the descriptions for Ithaca, Airhead, and Arrowplane) and a little bit of very easy down climbing after the second rappel.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Howling (5.10a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure the "view" from the midway belay is of Titanic, not Terrorvision.
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Location: AZ : Navajolands : Monument Valley
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're heading North through Monument Valley (from Flagstaff to Moab), there is a huge volcanic plug just off the road to the right (east), before reaching Monument Valley proper. Does anyone know what this is/if it's been climbed? Some of the rock looks very reminiscent of the high quality stuff at Smith...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt at Indian Creek would be the anchors.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this is an awesome route, I personally wish it had been developed as a trad climb. If it was, it would be a Front Range mega-classic along the lines of the Evictor or the Wasp. That said, I'm super thankful to the route developers for sharing this beautiful area and this amazing route in particular!
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Location: International : Australia
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eventually that will happen, but not until a "critical mass" is reached. Right now there are only 6 areas on the site so it doesn't concern me. Thanks for the comment!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Instant Clarification (AKA ... (5.9+)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Were the anchors (read rap bolts) for this climb placed because natural, gear anchors couldn't be found on the route?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems like a lot of people are getting lost somewhere around pitch 3-6. Could anyone who has done this route correctly post some definitive info about how to avoid getting off route?
Cheers,
Josh
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