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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo (Copy)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Feb 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw 14 people in their watching the sunset this weekend... It might just be a J-Tree record for the Space Pod.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Ritter
By: Josh Hibbard When: Jul 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I made a video documenting our climb up Mt. Ritter's Southeast Glacier, via the Norman Clyde variation. It is cheesy, but has some decent beta for the climber. Go to: www.youtube.com/joshuatree100
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Roan Way (5.8+ R)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: After climbing The Swift (5.7), I headed to Dappled Mare (5.8). Since the last pitch of Dappled Mare connects with the last pitch of The Swift (which we just finished climbing) I chose to climb Roan Way (5.8) as it looked very interesting from the bolt belay on Dappled Mare. If I had known it was "R" there is no way I would have climbed it. However, I thought that the runnout on the first move (which was a solid 5.8-5.9 move for a 5'7'' guy) was not bad (about 15 feet) which is standard for many... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis
By: Josh Hibbard When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware of the crowds on the weekends. Went there last weekend (11/07) and there were at least 20 people on this wall. One group had empty beer cans scatter at the base of the climb and were listening to heavy metal rock on their stereo which could have been heard from Indian Cove. (I have nothing against beer or music, just in moderation and in consideration to others). We left the wall to these wankers and headed to Lost Horse Wall...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Oct 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always avoided this route because it looked very intimidating. Finally climbed it last week and enjoyed it very much. It protects well, especially the crux moves.
I noticed that there are many opinions on the first pitch in this thread. The trouble with this is that there are numerous variations on the first pitch, especially the lower section. Go way left and make it a walk up, or choose the more challenging route and make it a 5.6 to 5.8.
The route is next to the road, so expect a n... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Jun 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is slippery, as indicated. Even if it was not slippery, I would still rate it a 5.7. It is a very fun climb. The down climb is a very decent trail off to climbers left... Very easy approach... A bear box is near the base of the climb.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : South Buttress (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a fun climb. We broke it into two pitches because we didn't know what to expect on the summit. This worked out well for us as it gave us both some lead fun. The obvious belay for the second pitch is at the base of 20 or so foot off width (not steep). If you do it in two pitches and want a quick anchor, walk up the summit slab to two south facing bolts (one of which is loose). The most difficult part of this moderate route is the first 15 feet off the deck, in my opinion.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Photo
By: Josh Hibbard When: Apr 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful photo!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - Southeast Fac... : Knightline (5.10c/d)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought Knightline was two or three climbs to the left of this one. Not sure of the name of the climb pictured, but I believe it is more of a 5.10a. Knightline, which is more on the face around the left corner of this climb, goes at 5.10C with two sets of crux moves. I could be wrong... I will see if I can figure it out in my old guide book.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : Main Slab : Mind Bender (5.10a/b)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guide books and the metal sign at Big Rock dub this a 5.9. However, the beginning (up to the hand-sized hole) seems more difficult than 5.9 to me. The dike provides some features for your feet, yet it is very slippery. I have climbed this route since 2003 and am guessing that a foothold broke loose making it a 5.10 route. Or, I might just be getting old and fat...
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : Main Slab : Puppy Dog (5.6)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoy warming up on this climb as it is not as "slippery" as some of the other climbs of the same rating.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Camp Road : Hodgepodge Rock : Hot Tub Honey (5.8)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed this climb and have done it twice. Getting past the first two bolts was fun. The rest isn't much, but worth doing if you are in the area.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Camp Road : Hodgepodge Rock : Hodgepodge (5.4 R)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To make this climb more challenging, I tied in with a bowline on a coil and climbed it in my flip-flops under the light of the moon. It felt like a 5.8 under the circumstances.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Camp Road : Hodgepodge Rock : Short Crack (5.4)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun, short climb, good for beginner trad leaders as the two cracks suck up plenty of pro.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Camp Road : Hodgepodge Rock : Bittersweet (5.9+)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb felt more like 5.10 to me...
I would only recommend it if you are camping in Group Site #5 and don't want to leave camp...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : The Swift (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route a few times now and have always enjoyed it. It is windy in areas so a few double runners in select spots will really help with the rope drag. Down climb to the climbers right if you want to get back to the start of the route.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Shark's Fin Arete (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A star or two if only for the view of Whitney!
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Location: AK
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: In addition to the above information on Alaska:
-You can also get there by boat. The Alaska Marine Highway leaves Seattle area (Bellingham) for most of the Southeast Alaska towns and up towards Anchorage. You can get a stateroom or pitch your tent on the solarium.
- Alaskans are very friendly and will give directions, as indicated in the above description. However, don't expect street names or street numbers. Be prepared for directions such as, "follow this here dirt road for about 5 minutes. T... more >>
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this a couple years ago and really enjoyed it. Supertopo makes a very good route description and diagram for detailed beta(as does the description above).I do remember reaching a huge block on the final pitch of which the only feature was a crack system to the top of the block. My friend went up the crack and thought it to be more like 5.9, not 5.7. My partner and I took an airy step around the left side of the block (climbers left) and the move was not more than 5.7 and was easily pro... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very fun climb and very popular. The second pitch was more enjoyable for me all around. A must do if you are climbing in Yosemite and can't make it up the big walls (like me...).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pine Line (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome view and fun climb (speaking of the first pitch, not the el Cap route). A bit slippery in spots, but easy to protect. Small pro...
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : Main Slab : The Trough (5.5)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very slipery, especially in the morning before the sun dries it off...
There is usually a top-rope hanging from the bolt/rap station as this is a favorite with groups...
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Plan for a 20-25 minute walk from the gate. Cut the time to 5 minutes if you bring a bike or skateboard. The gate never seems to be unlocked during the weekdays, so I have concluded that it is only unlocked on the weekends. However, I usually don't climb there in the summer (because of the heat), so it may just be a seasonal thing and unlocked in the summer. The rangers will give you a ticket if you don't pay the parking fee of $8...
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : Main Slab : Rat Crack (5.9+)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My guidebook for this area labels Rat Crack as a 5.8. The first move off the ground seemed much harder than that for me. Perhaps it is 5.8 for those over 5'7'' or with a long reach...
A fun climb once you get on it.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : Main Slab : Frontal Lobotomy (5.10a)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun, short route. Is it just me, or has this route gotten easier over the last 2 years (most routes are getting harder for me, save this one, as I have put on some weight...).
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