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Rock Climbing Photo: Stairway to Heaven (pitch 3)


Member Since: Jan 26, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Josh
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Point Rank: # 978
Total Points: 819
Last Year: 238
Last 30 Days: 16
24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 232 | Routes 21 | Areas 12 | Photos 76 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 37 | Stars 35 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Fiscal Cliff
By: Josh When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: A friendly suggestion for anyone visiting the Fiscal Cliff: please keep belayers and gear and whatnot off the new paved trail to avoid unnecessary conflict with bikers and hikers. Now that the Peak-to-Plains Trail is open in this section of the canyon, access to this cliff and a few others is much, much easier. However, the trail also sits essentially at the base of this crag, and it is on an outside corner. For cyclists, this means they may not be able to see a belayer who is standing on the pa... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Three Little Roofs (5.8)
By: Josh When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Gotta give props to Adam Huxley and Jim Wong for working on putting up this one with me. A fun afternoon of figuring out the protection locations.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : ... : Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) (5.10c)
By: Josh When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Agreed that the now-smaller hold just above the first bolt makes it a bit harder, but that hold still offers a positive edge for fingertips and is pretty valuable for the opening sequence, at least for me.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Allrete (5.8)
By: Josh When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: I'll go ahead and beat you to it, Jay: this one has a lot of lichen, like the other routes here.... ;)


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Arch Rock : ... : Photo
By: Josh When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Definitely worth a trip. Thoughtful moves out of the flake system, and the face above is highly featured (if with tiny things).


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Arch Rock : Naked Dave lives to Smoke A... (5.10)
By: Josh When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: I'm unclear how this route is related to X Marks the Spot and Eternal Edges, since X Marks is roughly 30 feet to the left of Three Trees, and Eternal Edges starts just to the left of Three Trees. Is this to the left or to the right of Black Hole and First Flight?


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Arch Rock : ... : Photo
By: Josh When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: This route goes straight up (on the face to the left of that tree growing out of the wall above), but you can also see the right-facing flakes that start the route Three Trees on the left side of the picture.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Arch Rock : Three Trees (5.7)
By: Josh When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: There are huge, positive holds all over this nearly vertical climb, which makes it quite fun, and the gear options are abundant. Also it is possible to end the first pitch at the anchors for Eternal Edges.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Arch Rock : Eternal Edges (5.10)
By: Josh When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: The route starts on top of a large flake leaning against the wall (with a good shelter cave for two people beneath, if the weather turns...). The first bolt is in the large, right-arcing flake on the wall, and there is air behind the bolt spot. Not to worry, though - the flake is fairly thick and seems like it would hold....


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Arch Rock
By: Josh When: Jun 1, 2016

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Comments: When walking up from Alligator Lounge, eventually there are two shallow drainages to choose from, with an outcrop of squat, stacked plate-type rocks in between. Try the right side - the drainage without all the aspen saplings in it. Much more open terrain and less deadfall to step over. This is easier to see from the base of Arch Rock (you know, after you've already done the hike up...).


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Outback : Half and Half (5.9)
By: Josh When: Jun 1, 2016

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Comments: It is possible to rap from this anchor diagonally to set the TR anchor for the 5.7 next to it, but a single 70 meter rope will not quite be long enough then to reach the ground if rigged for both climbs, but it will be close enough to make it work (we just stepped up on the first easy moves on the 7 to make it work).


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Outback : Phoenix (5.8)
By: Josh When: Jun 1, 2016

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Comments: I would agree the only thing that makes this route a grade easier than its neighbors is that the slab section is slightly shorter and has slightly more positive edges (though still tiny). The angle is the same, and the moves are basically friction. Lots of fun and long.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Outback : ... : Photo
By: Josh When: Jun 1, 2016

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Comments: You can see the line of bolts for The Green Mile above Steve's head. If you are beginning Unforgettable Fire, you would break left along the dike from where Steve is here.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Outback : The Green Mile (5.9)
By: Josh When: Jun 1, 2016

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Comments: With two 70 meter ropes, it is possible to have the leader climb both pitches together and then bring the second rope up for a single 2-rope rappel.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Outback
By: Josh When: Jun 1, 2016

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Comments: The approach took us 1 hr 20 minutes as well, but well worth it for such excellent rock and fun climbing (if you like slabs, which I do). A few more details that might help for the approach: the "trail" down from the top of the hill at the power lines follows a faint seam in the hillside, almost perpendicular to the direction you have been walking up to that point. At the bottom of this hill, where you pick up the old two-track in the gully / streambed, I would generally stay as much on the far ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Josh When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: UPDATE: the anchor for this climb is now restored. It has been moved to the lip of the ledge on top and should be easier to use than the original. There is a separate rappel anchor above the ledge that can be clipped from the side before making the exposed step onto the ledge, if you are accessing this spot from above.

I do not know who stole the original anchor off this route, but it is concerning. There were several other anchors on the Upper Tier that had pieces of chain and quicklinks r... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier
By: Josh When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Someone has removed the fixed handline from the main ledge system at the base of the Second and Third Triangles. If anyone knows about this, please let me know by PM. I was uncertain about putting it in place, but after multiple comments from other climbers at the Upper Tiers about the need for some added safety when moving between the climbs on the right side, I decided to add it (using only existing anchor points- not adding any new permanent hardware). I was only about 51% in favor of doin... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Photo
By: Josh When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Don't worry-- the photo is very foreshortened. The actual lines of ascent are straighter and longer.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Josh When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Takin' it Easy, Takin' it Slow is the lefthand set of lines on the upper section of the Fourth Triangle.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Josh When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Best Hamster Ever is the line on the left side of the lower section of the Fourth Triangle and the right edge of the upper section.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : Photo
By: Josh When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: 11/2015: There is now a fixed handline in place to make this scramble a bit safer. It is anchored at both ends and can be clipped into as desired.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : ... : Irie (5.7)
By: Josh When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: The lefthand anchor bolt has been replaced as of Oct. 24, 2015, and both bolts now have chains. All hardware is looking safe, and the base area for the entire east wall has received significant stabilizing and erosion control, thanks to all the volunteer work from climbers and JeffCo Open Space staff over the 2015 season. Thanks for all the hard work on behalf of the community, everyone!


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Photo
By: Josh When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Is that Adam wearing your hat, Chuck?


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion
By: Josh When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: Just a reminder for everyone visiting the Tiers that JeffCo Open Space regulations ask for dogs to remain on leashes except in specific designated areas. Since the Tiers of Zion are within the boundaries of the Windy Saddle Open Space Park, this means no dogs off leash, please. Given the amount of wildlife in the area (and rattlesnakes), this is a sound approach anyhow. That said, I'm very sorry to hear your dog got bitten, Kev.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho
By: Josh When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: There is a large, loose block sitting on the blunt arete between Horns of Jericho and Fit the Battle. It is well-settled on an incut ledge and is likely not going to go anywhere. The first developer at Jericho tried hard to remove it, but it kept wanting to settle back into place on the ledge. It poses no real threat to climbers on the existing routes, but you might as well at least be aware it is there. It is visible in the main topo photo.


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