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Member Since: Apr 4, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 5, 2016
Contact Josh Smith

Point Rank: # 345
Total Points: 1,970
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Smith been climbing?










Contributions


All 352 | Routes 154 | Areas 7 | Photos 58 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 9 | Stars 88 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Watchman's Secret (5.12a PG13)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: The 12- pitch is one of the best of this grade I've done in the Sandias. Extraordinary fun with small but perfectly adequate gear.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Circumlocution (5.11-)
By: Josh Smith When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: At one time this route split just past the roof. You could clip a bolt on the face and finish on Lightning Road rather than do the off width. The bolt has been removed.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Status of the road is currently clear of down trees, but it's a good idea to take a saw & be prepared. Even without the winds, trees are coming down regularly. Bit of snow on the approach, but not bad.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Demanda (5.9+)
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the comment from skelldify, it seems worth noting that considerable thought went into bolting this route. In the months after it went up, I received feedback from a number of people and ended up moving several bolts (and added a bolt in the middle because of runout, hence the bolts that are to close too close together). I climbed it again this fall to see if it still held up as a quality route a decade later, and my feeling was that it did. The anchor is a little too far off to the rig... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF)
By: Josh Smith When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: Found an ATC and locker at Upper East Fork Friday 9-18.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Found a rope bag at UEF. PM me if it's yours. Also, some kind soul replaced the bridge. Thank you anonymous bridge builder!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Psycho Killer (5.12)
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Eric. Would be fun to know more history. What a difficult size--I couldn't decide between laybacking and climbing it straight on; pulling on cams ended up being the the most realistic strategy. Eager to get back on it.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Psycho Killer (5.12)
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Information on who did the FA of this one would be appreciated.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: There are a variety of bolts out there because of the learning process, but hopefully none of them are unsafe. If you see an anchor set that is, message me (or who ever did the FA) with the route name and we'll take a look and upgrade if need be.

I probably placed the ones in the picture, which means they're stainless sleeve bolts (those look like half inch). I did have some bolts delivered that had sleeves that were too long, which means that the threads didn't show as much as would be ideal,... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Josh Smith When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Approach beta is updated as of September 2014. See the new map and only use the single approach. Once you're in the wash, look for cairns leading to the Upper Wall/Capulet at the shoulder that separates these two features. The trail up to the Main Wall was marked with cairns every twenty feet or so in June, but they may have washed out in July/August.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Josh Smith When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: April 20th 2014--the approach to the main cliff was damaged in the heavy September rains last year but it's still easier than the approach to the upper cliff. It is trivial to follow it down to the creek from the end of the ridge (see the overview topo) and I've re-established the cairns going from the creek up to the cliff. Look for footsteps and try to follow the same path each time. Thanks.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : The Sorcerer (5.12b PG13)
By: Josh Smith When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorite Sandia routes to date. The description of P3 here makes a good amendment to Mick's book (which is a little more terse). It's easy to wander around on this pitch without the pointers. Bomber small cam above the tiny tree on P3, then another bomber one four or five feet to the right, just before the corner.

If you don't feel up for the 5.12 pitch, it's easy to skip it at the end and do three pitches of some of the most engaging climbing in the Sandias. But the 12 pitch is stun... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Glasnost Crack (5.10-)
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Nov. 10th 2013: has some dust/dirt on the edges right now. Still fun but will be cleaner after one rain storm.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : AdiĆ³s Alemanes (5.11-) : Photo
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Sneaky.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Full Monty (5.10-)
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Future ascents will be safer than the FA, but there is quite a bit of loose rock and mouse crap on the big ledge part way up P2. Be extra careful on this one.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Eternal Optimist (5.11-)
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Seems likely that this route was climbed some time in the past--it's pretty obvious.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: I second the opinion on not adding bolts to an existing line without consulting the FA party. I found the gear adequate on this route.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure : Photo
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 19, 2011

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Comments: Goes at 5.9ish. Clean, fun.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Early Times (5.10)
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 19, 2011

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Comments: (Different Josh Smith than listed on the FA). Did this a few weeks ago. The rock and the climbing are outstanding for all four new pitches. Route finding is easy and protection is good. Super fun--nice job!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Godzilla Meets Bambi (5.12b/c)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: For historical reference:



Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c)
By: Josh Smith When: Dec 12, 2010

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Comments: Nice job, Lee!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Schadenfreude (5.11c)
By: Josh Smith When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: The route was TR'd a number of times before I bolted it, and I think the bolt placements are just fine. I would also give the route one star, since I don't think it's nearly of the quality of a lot of the other routes out there, but I believe it's still fun and worth climbing.

It's unfortunate that JeremyA and Orlando feel as they do about the bolts, but that's certainly their prerogative. The value of Mountain Project is that it allows people to share opinions and beta on routes, and that inc... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Schadenfreude (5.11c)
By: Josh Smith When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: "Hellen Keller with a drill." Hum...not exactly a tone to inspire dialogue. I guess I'll take that comment to be worth about the $0.02 Jeremy gives it.

Thanks, Jason, for your thoughtful and reasonable responses.

For others who venture by this page or the route, I've always felt that sport climbs essentially belong to the climbing community once they're established, and have moved a number of bolts to make a route better suited to a wider group of people if it seemed reasonable. However, not ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : Parallel Universe (5.12a/b)
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 25, 2009

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Comments: Rare to find such clean rock on a Sandias route, bottom to top, on such a terrific natural line. Highly recommended


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Werepig (5.11c)
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 28, 2009

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Comments: Thanks, John. Glad you had the chance to check it out. It's been a nice haven during the hotter months.


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