Comments: April 20th 2014--the approach to the main cliff was damaged in the heavy September rains last year but it's still easier than the approach to the upper cliff. It is trivial to follow it down to the creek from the end of the ridge (see the overview topo) and I've re-established the cairns going from the creek up to the cliff. Look for footsteps and try to follow the same path each time. Thanks.
Comments: One of my favorite Sandia routes to date. The description of P3 here makes a good amendment to Mick's book (which is a little more terse). It's easy to wander around on this pitch without the pointers. Bomber small cam above the tiny tree on P3, then another bomber one four or five feet to the right, just before the corner.
If you don't feel up for the 5.12 pitch, it's easy to skip it at the end and do three pitches of some of the most engaging climbing in the Sandias. But the 12 pitch is stun... more >>
Comments: (Different Josh Smith than listed on the FA). Did this a few weeks ago. The rock and the climbing are outstanding for all four new pitches. Route finding is easy and protection is good. Super fun--nice job!
Comments: The route was TR'd a number of times before I bolted it, and I think the bolt placements are just fine. I would also give the route one star, since I don't think it's nearly of the quality of a lot of the other routes out there, but I believe it's still fun and worth climbing.
It's unfortunate that JeremyA and Orlando feel as they do about the bolts, but that's certainly their prerogative. The value of Mountain Project is that it allows people to share opinions and beta on routes, and that inc... more >>
Comments: "Hellen Keller with a drill." Hum...not exactly a tone to inspire dialogue. I guess I'll take that comment to be worth about the $0.02 Jeremy gives it.
Thanks, Jason, for your thoughtful and reasonable responses.
For others who venture by this page or the route, I've always felt that sport climbs essentially belong to the climbing community once they're established, and have moved a number of bolts to make a route better suited to a wider group of people if it seemed reasonable. However, not ... more >>
Comments: Ken, George and I went up and climbed the route again last night (It's better than I remembered, which is always a nice surprise). I checked all the bolts, and the loose hanger was the fault of my poor choice of placement. It was resting on a sharp point of rock, which must have busted at some point (maybe when you fell). I tightened it and that may not happen again, but I really need to go back with a hammer and flatten the rock behind the hanger so it seats properly against the rock. I'll do t... more >>
Comments: The route left of Grendal has 3.5" Powers SS wedge bolts. I'm sorry to hear that two of the nuts were loose--as Jason said, we've been trying to check and re-tighten nuts because it does seem to be a bit of a pattern out there. I've yet to see a stud that seems loose, and I have seen the same hanger issue with a Powers (Rawl) 5 piece, so I don't think it's the bolts (I sure hope it's not, though if it is, we need to know). I've also not seen anything loose after I re-tightened, but I haven't bee... more >>
Comments: Nice route! Kudos to the FA party, and thanks for the hard work on it. On the raps: First rap: we rapped off the tree to the belay at the top of P5 (~140ft). On the second rap, we went all the way to the Living Room ledge with no problem. The pull is easy, and you don't have to do the swing over to the intermediate anchor with the link and the difficult pull. We did leave a draw on that anchor since the pin doesn't have a link. Gear: we didn't have offset aliens (just the regular kind) and the p... more >>
Comments: This is a pretty new area, and many of these routes have only been climbed a few times. The rock is also pretty soft, so BE CAREFUL. It can and will break. Some of the routes are still a little dirty as well (some will likely always be), so if be prepared for that. Please use the trails as much as possible to keep the grass from getting demolished.
Comments: First climbed by Peter Gram after a lengthy siege by numerous folks. The second ascent was by a visiting hardman named Jerry from Slovenia who onsighted it without breathing hard (he also went on an onsighting spree at the Dungeon, seriously impressing us locals). I think it's probably 13a. Peter thought it might be 12d. Jerry thought 13a, but he could have just been being polite. Regardless, it's in that range.
Comments: The first pitch is a vertical garden, but after that it gets a lot cleaner. On P1, after about fifty feet, you have a choice of going left to a prominent dihedral, or slightly right up groves to the main dihedral above. Both are kind of loose and dirty, but the right variation is more direct and slightly easier. Both end at the 1st bolted anchor.
Last pitch, I strongly recommend the left variation if you don't mind thirty feet of 5.6R at the start (the rock is great). The left exit dihedral is... more >>
Comments: In response to Josh Janes' comment, I believe we were on route for P3-5, and this description and the beta photo I just posted might help. The photo and comments need to be viewed together.
We did the route with a 70m cord. I thought it worked fine. I’m only putting in detail for 3-5, since they seem to cause the most consternation and the other descriptions on MP are pretty comprehensive for the rest of the route.
P1 - 10+. Start not shown. Run two pitches together. Reach 2ft right at...