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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Josh Janes
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Point Rank: # 47
Total Points: 7,832
Last Year: 336
Last 30 Days: 40
305 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3322 | Routes 470 | Areas 157 | Photos 112 | Page Improvements | Comments 217 | Posts 309 | Stars 2038 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Shattered Glass (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: An amazing piece of climbing: 5 out of 4 stars.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Airhead (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Dylan, thanks for that great addition to the original description!


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Bad route descriptions? NIMBY! :)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Beach, Right Side
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Thanks much Darrell - looking forward to a first visit to the beach!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Beach, Right Side
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: A couple questions:

What time does this wall go into the shade? Does "Tree Line" see shade as well?

Can Crystal Voyage be rappelled with a single 70m as indicated here (the book calls for two ropes)?

Cheers!


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: "First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh."

Ugh? Ugh: Typical east coast squabbling. I guess when you only have a tiny bit of scrappy rock to play on you feel a compulsion to argue about a 5' variation to the first pitch (and it's the approach pitch!) of a two pitch 5.9. Hey, I can't really fault you. But nice job giving the blow-by-blow description Andy - apologies if my submission was misleading or not detailed enough for yo... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Nematode : Bovine Guidance (5.11b) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Well, that is certainly debatable. Good route, but doesn't make my City Top Twenty.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Lone Pine Peak : Michael Strassman Memorial ... (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: This route should be renamed "MSMR (AKA The Super Hike)."


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Josh Janes When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Lost Hat: I lost a black Smartwool beanie beneath Goliath last week. I threw it off my head while climbing the route and it landed in the talus below the arete. After sending I was so excited that I forgot all about it and we left that afternoon for the next destination on our road trip. If you happen to find it I would be very grateful to get it back - it has sentimental value as I've had it my entire climbing career. Thanks!

I had no problems hanging the draws on the route after scrambling up... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: The ledge is not on the plumb line, nor is it on the rappel line. I'm not sure what you mean by "nab", but it wouldn't be too hard to traverse over and retrieve it during your descent. Certainly not harder than hauling a bag two thirds of the way up the route to begin with.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Airy Interlude (5.10b)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: That's just awful - I'm so sorry to hear that. I just knew when I wrote the words "mantle" and "miracle hold" that I was crossing a line. Please accept my apology and, from the bottom of my heart, may no more classic rock climbs be ruined for you by the Mountain Project ever again.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: I wrote it because I've done it. On one of the final raps you have to swing into the vegetated corner on the right. From there you can continue rapping to the ground. If you want to only use the bolted stations then yes, you need either an 80 or two ropes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Deep Space (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: "An old piton, predating the first ascent, used to exist on this pitch."

An old piton, predating the first complete ascent?
An old piton, predating the first free ascent?
Was there other evidence of passage or of a bail anchor? If not, would it be safe to assume the first ascent had already happened (certainly the first four pitches had already been done)?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: We also climbed the left side of the rubble pyramid (which was relatively painless), but we descended via the left side as well from a tree with rap slings that you will pass on your way up. This brought us right back to our packs.

I hate to be the lone dissenter here but I thought Nelson's superlative description of the quality of this finger crack is a little bit of a stretch. The crack is in no way sustained (rests every few feet) and it has plenty of hollow rock and crispy holds - it would... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Anyone have good beta for approaching the start of the Nautilus?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: Whoever rebolted the routes on the left half of the Trophy - your effort is much appreciated (glue in's are the right choice for that crag)! If you need some help learning how to avoid making a glue mess/overfill, please contact me and I'd be glad to share some tips. Also, it is possible to camo bolts by spray painting them at home rather than doing it at the crag (and getting overspray all over the rock itself).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Puppy Love (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: But evidently they don't if you've had to replace them.

Mountain Dreamer, I do a lot of rebolting work myself - I'm on your side and not trying to criticize or argue with you. You should consider getting in touch with the ASCA - if you're doing rebolting work they will provide you with the best hardware possible (even the glue!), so the only expense would be your time and labor (which I understand is considerable).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Puppy Love (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: While I'm thankful for your efforts, in the future consider using proper (stainless) glue ins next time: something that will not rust or crack. Unfortunately glued in pins will likely leave a huge mess when they eventually break down.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Because my description is sooooo baaaad. Classic case of petty Gunkie squabbling about their precious tiny piece of real estate.

Does the description get you there? Yes. Does it tell you where the line goes? Yes. Does it tell you something about the quality of the route and the protection? Yes.

Sorry I didn't write a ten paragraph description for this 50' rock climb. It's not like it's the Rainbow Wall , the Moonlight Buttress , or even the ?Yellow Wall?... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Eagles Nest : Bromancing The Stone (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: "Park in a small pullout on the right, less than a mile before the Juniper Canyon parking lot and directly below the face"

Is this a typo that should read "...before the Pine Creek parking lot..."?


Location: NV : Arrow Canyon : Dirty Wall : Planet Gone Mad (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: A contender for the best 5.12d sport route in Southern Nevada.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Pablo Diablo Direct Extensi... (5.13a)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: Adds little to the difficulty of Pablo Diablo and much to the experience. In fact, I'd argue that the lower arete is closer to 5.13 and the extension itself 5.12- at the most... But what a wild feature to look at and climb!

Fixed draws under the roof make this a bit easier to clean (after tagging the anchors and hucking off from above the roof of course).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Kung Pao Cat (5.12b R)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: It may have held a lead fall, it may not have. Or, it may have held body weight or it may not have. I think it's a bummer to make the call to pull it out while on TR. I can only assume that someone put the rope up for you - did that person clip the fixed wire? They may have thought it was suspect (as did I), but did they clip it? Personally, I was glad that wire was there even though I did not test it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Snagglepuss (5.11-)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: Squeezed in, yes, but hands down the best route of the three. If it were me I'd chop the piles to the right and left and leave this beauty. Problem solved!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Desert Wave (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: A sister route, Off the Lip, climbs past the first bolt and then follows the exposed lefthand arete at 5.10d past a few gear placements and two more bolts to the same crappy anchor. Beware a brief-case sized loose rock that forms the structure of the arete halfway up! One star.


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