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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes

Josh Janes
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Point Rank: # 47
Total Points: 8,246
Last Year: 436
Last 30 Days: 36
191 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3633 | Routes 489 | Areas 167 | Photos 121 | Page Improvements | Comments 246 | Posts 365 | Stars 2226 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Eastern States : Travel Nursing rock climber... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: 5 days ago

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Comments: How do you guys like the vertical bike mounts on one door? Any problems operating the door or any other issues?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slippery Buttress : Tongue and Groove (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Sick for Toys is probably better 5.10 slabbing... but on the other hand you could counter that Sick for Toys is actually 5.11 :)


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: I think it's a bit of a stretch to call this a four-star classic (and probably to call it 5.7 for that matter) - considering the descent is perhaps more stimulating than the route... that said, this would be a fun route to take your adventurous grandmother up prior to dinner at Robuchon or a late night at Hakkasan.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Nelson, want to know what I think is the "best finger crack in Red Rocks" (and one that deserves the 5.11 grade)? Well, I'm going to tell you! Cactus Connection's second pitch. But you have to do a bit of work to get to it. And even better, though only rated 5.10 (though harder than Bloodline) is Mr. Natural. Check 'em out!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : The Schwa (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: From the anchor one could do a double-rope rap all the way to the ground. Alternatively, with a single 60m rope, rap to the Diving Board and then easily scramble to the anchor atop the route Beautiful Bastard. From here, rappel two more times to the ground.

The direct start involves some 5.10- climbing up hollow rock above dubious pro. The actual crux (mid-5.11) is challenging but well protected provided one has one or two pieces in the blue Metolius or red C3 size. That's the sweet spot: 0.3 ... more >>


Location: Leavittator : Clark Mountain : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: This photo is very upsetting to me.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Jordan for your crucial beta! It's amazing that you unlocked that secret and even better that you would take the time to share it with the rest of us. And also thank you for your insightful comments on every route you recently climbed in the Valley - it sounds like it was a great trip.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : Beautiful Bastard (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch of this route (5.10d), which can easily be linked as one long pitch from the ground, is excellent. From the intermediate anchor, continue up a steep headwall with good gear and holds. From the highest anchor, one can lower all the way to the ground with an 80m rope (otherwise lower twice). A single set of cams from small to #2 or #3 Camalot, with a few extra fingers-sized pieces, is adequate for the linkup.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: So what you're saying is you skipped the first pitch (which is the mental crux) and then skipped the last pitch (which is the physical crux) and yet still recommend it? Nice job "climbing it" and thanks for posting up!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sandstone Samurai (5.11a X)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: I think Clint just came in his pants!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Creekside : Nairobi (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Forgive me for being the lone dissenter, but I really enjoyed all the climbing on this route. I do think some of the clips were tough, but losing the final cruxy slab would be a shame.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: Approaching this wall is much easier via the Corduroy Ridge: Immediately after scrambling up the initial bolted slab on the left, gain the ridge (do not continue up the canyon). Follow this (a couple exposed 5.0 moves here and there) until directly opposite and above the arch of The Breathing Stone. Hug the left edge of the ridge here and scramble down left into a notch continuing down slabs either directly and improbably to The Breathing Stone or more obviously slightly up canyon to Mr. Natural... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall : Mr. Natural of the Desert (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: I recommend the following rack:

3 ea. Black Alien/Purple C3 - Green Alien/Red C3
1 ea. 0.4 Camalot - #3 Camalot
2 ea. #4, #5 Camalot (I did it with only one #4 and #5 but this required heavy-handed back cleaning)
1 set of Stoppers

We barely made it down with an 80m rope... I think the climb is closer to 140'.

Approaching this route is much easier via the Corduroy Ridge: Immediately after scrambling up the initial bolted slab on the left, gain the ridge (do not c... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : Beast Master (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: When going to climb Southern Revival, should one climb this or the original pitch? If one climbs this, can one get away without #4 Camalots on the route?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 6, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Mike - I stand corrected.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: Many routes here have anchors that consist of bolts, quicklinks, and rap rings. The problem is those rap rings are fat, but hollow, aluminum rap rings (I believe made by OP). These rings shouldn't be used at anchors on single pitch climbs as they look nearly identical to fat steel rings but are much less durable and can only survive a very limited number of lowers. Beware!!!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : Ripped Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: Approach Strokin' the Bishop and Lopin' the Mule by climbing the obvious bolted access pitch on the left side of the wall at 5.9. Rapping from this pitch requires just a touch of downclimbing with a single 70m rope.

El Sendero del Vagabundo, Ripped Wall, Biaji's Boulevard, and Animal Party can more directly be approached by climbing an old overgrown, but short, pitch on the right side of the wall at 5.8. However, arguably the best option is to do the lefthand approach and use Strokin' the Bisho... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Indecent Exposure Buttress : Indecent Exposure (5.9+)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this recently and saw no signs of bees, but it was cold and they were possibly dormant - can't say for sure. It seemed like this route hadn't been climbed in months which is a shame because it's amazing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Cactus Connection (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Great route! ...but bring a saw and pruning shears.

Also, there is what appears to be a new-ish bolted anchor (I added some cord but future parties may wish to bring a couple quicklinks) that allowed rappelling down to the platform at the start with a 60m rope (just barely). This skips the "leap" move.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Mass Extinction Block
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: If this gem were located in the Calico Hills, it would be sprayed with bolts. Thank god it isn't!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Mind's Eye (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Where is this route located?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Janes Wall : Pigs in Zen (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 8, 2015

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Comments: One of the best.

Note for future bolt replacers: If anyone ever decides to replace the anchor on this route, move it about 4-5 feet higher. As is, the anchor is below your knees when you finally reach the hands-free stance.

The Janes Wall can easily be approached from the First Pullout by heading up towards Ultraman then cutting left. I like this better than coming in from the Second Pullout.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : California 12a : California 12a (5.12c)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: The anchor has been moved higher to the no-hands rest and true finish to the route. Now the old anchor has become the last pro bolt and thus the climb has a total of 7 pro bolts leading to an anchor equipped with mussy hooks.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Max: link 2&3 and skip the only hanging belay. You could also easily and naturally link 4&5 (the 5.10 pitch into the direct, 5.11 finish), though I haven't done this latter link.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: You must have been having a bad day, KN! I thought the crux was soft for 11c... But the whole route is very sustained at 11a. Lots of slippery burl and pumpy cracks of all sizes.


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