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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes


Point Rank: # 44
Total Points: 7,516
Last Year: 339
Last 30 Days: 94
258 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3062 | Routes 451 | Areas 151 | Photos 112 | Page Improvments | Comments 181 | Posts 267 | Stars 1886 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : Over The Rainbow (West Face... (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: 3 days ago

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Comments: How are you going to get us a copy if you have it scanned but can't read it well?

If you are working on a guidebook I'm sure you have basic photo editing skills for this kind of thing. In my experience you can make a faint scan/photo much more readable by simply tweaking the contrast.

My suggestion is that you upload what you've got to this page so it can actually be useful to the community.

Also, offer to hand-off this description to someone who is more familiar with the route.

Otherwise, ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Yes. Please do.

And a Lee Vining Canyon area is a fine idea.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : The Flying Buttress (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: A good route but maybe not a classic: some questionable rock and two hanging belays (one of which can be eliminated with a 70m rope) detract, but the roof pitch is memorable and there are several other fun sections. Soft for the grade?

P1: 5.8
P2: 5.10d
P3: 5.10c
P4: 5.10c
P5: 5.11a
P6: 5.10a

Link P3 (the hand crack roof/face traverse) and P4 (the long flake/short finger crack) with a 70 to eliminate one of the hanging belays.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: What does that mean? Cuz technically speaking Eric's content is located in the wrong spot (Tuolumne) and mine was in the right spot (the High Sierras)...


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Podunk Mesa Tower : Gofer (5.11+)
By: Josh Janes When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: So what is it called anyway?

Enjoyed Adrenaline Circus (thanks!)... How does this one compare?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Josh Janes When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: C'mon Steven, you called it your first 13a on FB and are now downrating it here? Sure Trad Warrior is probably 12c, but this is solid 13a.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak
By: Josh Janes When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The descent from the summit is via three rappels down the Langdon Route. A single 80m cord works, and a 70 almost works: A bit of easy scrambling across a ledge after the first rappel off the top is required, the second rappel is no problem, but on the final rappel a 70 will leave you 15-20' short, but some creative problem solving can make it work.

Every anchor has 4 bolts - three of which are vintage and one of which is modern - but the real issue is the cluster of bleached, crispy webbing wo... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Aikido Gun Boy (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Due to the warnings in the route description I inspected this route on rappel - what I found was plenty of great gear and I had no qualms about pulling my rope and trying it on lead immediately. The 000 C3 seemed as good as such a piece can be, but regardless there is other solid gear just below and even off to the side if you really want it. Just wanted to provide another opinion.

However, I could not find a 5.11 way to climb it: the bolts make it a contrived 5.12 (broken holds?). The opening ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: No.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : The Kokanee Corner (5.13+)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Nice Hayden! I've seen the bolts right of Sacred Space shining in the sun from below for years and have wondered what it was... Looks like an outrageous position!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Chris, here's the deal with the approach/deproach: There is a narrow foot ledge that leads west across the wall and is only 4th class, but very exposed. It ends at the cave. You must have come up from below more directly. To retreat, you can reverse this traverse, but about 20' below the cave is a single bolt from which you can rappel: A 35 meter rap leaves you at a point where you can just begin scrambling easily down the slab.

Glad you liked the climb and I agree, it does sadly finish right i... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Lime Kiln : Mantis (5.12c)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Mantis.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Into The Wild (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Unless hold have broken since I've done it you're dreaming to call this any harder than 12a.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Please be exceptionally careful to pack out all your garbage (including orange peels, tape, poop, etc) from this beautiful area. Also, the various bones and skeletons serve to mark the path and create ambiance - consider leaving them untouched. Blog less, climb more, and enjoy this pristine, special area.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Lakshmi Singh (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Was Bloom able to finish it up and left through the roofs like I envisioned? It would be nice to hear more details...


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Lakshmi Singh (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Is this the bolt I put in?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Black Diamond (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I for one am really glad that Craig, et al. sprayed so much about this line before actually doing it so that Gilje could beat them to it and send it in such incredible, bold style. This is one of those routes that demands you rise to the occasion.

With regards to the pro... it's just enough. You could deck in a couple places but if you're on this it's unlikely. On the other hand, if any single bolt were to come unclipped or fail somehow, you would die. Or maybe you'd just float away into the at... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Afterburner Wall : Eliminator (5.11d PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Jon, you've realized a truth about Red Rocks crack climbing: They aren't really crack climbs. I esteem Seduction Line so highly because of the purity of the line, though you're correct, it's tips laybacking more than jamming (though there is a section of locks as I recall - it's just not the crux). Similarly with Eliminator, there are a few stretches of jamming on it, but there are so many irregularities in the crack and face holds that it keeps the climb from feeling like a real crack climb. Th... more >>


Location: Gregger Man : ACE : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Galvanic corrosion. :(


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Tried this again today. Really hard for my fingers and I'm generally pretty good at this size... feels 12c. Painful.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Marijuana (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: I carried all the water bottles out today. Not sure who they belong to but if you want them you can check my recycling bin which will be on the curb on Tuesday.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : The Underground Chasm
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: An interesting comment from one of the Joshua Tree climbing rangers regarding the access issues to this area:

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1772094&msg=1>>>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Unknown 10a (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: This route's name should be "The Best 10a Face Climb in Red Rocks".


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : The Clod Tower (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Here's what's in store:

Begin in the deep recess around the left side of Cloud Tower just right of the looming Tiger Crack. The easiest way to get in there (and thus avoid a small scrub oak jungle) is along the wall. Scramble and bushwhack up the steep gully in the back of the recess as far as seems prudent (we found a nice platform to set up the belay).

P1 (180-190', 5.10c): Climb up a somewhat poorly protected groove to the right of the obvious chimney and hand crack (or grovel up the chimne... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Flame Ranger (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Flame Ranger or Lame Hanger?

The key cam is a red C3.


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