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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes


Point Rank: # 43
Total Points: 7,421
Last Year: 269
Last 30 Days: 2
245 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All (3009) | Routes (449) | Areas (151) | Photos (98) | Comments (172) | Posts (260) | Stars (1866) | Ratings (13)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : The Kokanee Corner (5.13+)
By: Josh Janes When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Nice Hayden! I've seen the bolts right of Sacred Space shining in the sun from below for years and have wondered what it was... Looks like an outrageous position!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Chris, here's the deal with the approach/deproach: There is a narrow foot ledge that leads west across the wall and is only 4th class, but very exposed. It ends at the cave. You must have come up from below more directly. To retreat, you can reverse this traverse, but about 20' below the cave is a single bolt from which you can rappel: A 35 meter rap leaves you at a point where you can just begin scrambling easily down the slab.

Glad you liked the climb and I agree, it does sadly finish right i... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Lime Kiln : Mantis (5.12c)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Mantis.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Into The Wild (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Unless hold have broken since I've done it you're dreaming to call this any harder than 12a.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Please be exceptionally careful to pack out all your garbage (including orange peels, tape, poop, etc) from this beautiful area. Also, the various bones and skeletons serve to mark the path and create ambiance - consider leaving them untouched. Blog less, climb more, and enjoy this pristine, special area.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Lakshmi Singh (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Was Bloom able to finish it up and left through the roofs like I envisioned? It would be nice to hear more details...


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Lakshmi Singh (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Is this the bolt I put in?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Olympic Dome : Black Diamond (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I for one am really glad that Craig, et al. sprayed so much about this line before actually doing it so that Gilje could beat them to it and send it in such incredible, bold style. This is one of those routes that demands you rise to the occasion.

With regards to the pro... it's just enough. You could deck in a couple places but if you're on this it's unlikely. On the other hand, if any single bolt were to come unclipped or fail somehow, you would die. Or maybe you'd just float away into the at... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Afterburner Wall : Eliminator (5.11d PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Jon, you've realized a truth about Red Rocks crack climbing: They aren't really crack climbs. I esteem Seduction Line so highly because of the purity of the line, though you're correct, it's tips laybacking more than jamming (though there is a section of locks as I recall - it's just not the crux). Similarly with Eliminator, there are a few stretches of jamming on it, but there are so many irregularities in the crack and face holds that it keeps the climb from feeling like a real crack climb. Th... more >>


Location: Gregger Man : ACE : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Galvanic corrosion. :(


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: Tried this again today. Really hard for my fingers and I'm generally pretty good at this size... feels 12c. Painful.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Marijuana (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: I carried all the water bottles out today. Not sure who they belong to but if you want them you can check my recycling bin which will be on the curb on Tuesday.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : The Underground Chasm
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: An interesting comment from one of the Joshua Tree climbing rangers regarding the access issues to this area:

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1772094&msg=1>>>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Unknown 10a (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: This route's name should be "The Best 10a Face Climb in Red Rocks".


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : The Clod Tower (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Here's what's in store:

Begin in the deep recess around the left side of Cloud Tower just right of the looming Tiger Crack. The easiest way to get in there (and thus avoid a small scrub oak jungle) is along the wall. Scramble and bushwhack up the steep gully in the back of the recess as far as seems prudent (we found a nice platform to set up the belay).

P1 (180-190', 5.10c): Climb up a somewhat poorly protected groove to the right of the obvious chimney and hand crack (or grovel up the chimne... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Flame Ranger (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Flame Ranger or Lame Hanger?

The key cam is a red C3.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: No offense intended but that's like saying "If your dog was better before being neutered, sew his balls back on."

Once it's done, it's done.

And it shouldn't have. That's why Atonement is such a perfect name.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Atonement = much better name!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Smears for Fears Area : Rojo (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: 3 bolts total and as Handren puts it in his guide, still "hair raising". Clearly bolted on lead - I don't think this has been retro'd, but Paul, you would know.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Kindness (5.12c/d)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for getting on it and posting up Robbie!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sandstone Samurai (5.11a X)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 12, 2013

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Comments: Alright, exercise some self control here and DON'T READ THE FOLLOWING unless you want the full beta spray-down. We would have liked to have known what we were in for, but when it came down to it it was pretty much what we expected and in retrospect I'm glad we didn't have all the details. That said, if you still can't resist, read on. Caveat emptor.

P1 (5.10d R, 150'): Begin well left of Prince of Darkness and Rock Warrior just right of small pillar of rock that leans against the wall. Scramble... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: I'm interested in conducting a mission to replace old hardware on this route.

Having climbed it recently, I was struck by how beautiful a line (and formation) it is. Currently there are many good bolts and anchors, but also many that are terrible, and others that are just plain unnecessary. I'd like to replace the bad ones, pull the unnecessary ones (and patch their holes), and possibly leave one or two of the most classic "museum" pieces for their historical novelty and as tribute to Beckey. I... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: I can't speak to any other fixed gear (rope?) on the route, but the draws on the crux pitch of Rainbow Country are mine. I hope they're not bothering anyone: I intend to remove them ASAP when I finish working on the pitch. If you have a problem or concern feel free to contact me directly. Thanks!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Less Than Zero (5.12c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Take it with a grain of salt: he also rated Ruby's 12b.

Then I went and brought Alex's recommended rack and was hating life for want of some fingers-sized pieces above the roof.

Guess I shouldn't believe everything I read on the internet.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : South Fork - Oak Creek : Pirate Wall : Line Of Addiction (5.11d PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: I had a great time climbing this route. This is the line to do on the back side of Wilson.

A few thoughts on the rack: You could get away with a single set from 0.2 BD to #4 BD Camalots, wires, and a 70m rope. I think I found the crucial spot for the green/yellow Hybrid Alien, but I thought a normal green Alien (or similar cam) would have fit just as well if not better. I placed a single RP (#6 BD Micro Stopper) above the Alien, but I could have managed just fine without RP's at all... more >>


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