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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 13 mins ago
Contact Josh Janes


Point Rank: # 45
Total Points: 7,662
Last Year: 430
Last 30 Days: 52
270 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3140 | Routes 463 | Areas 153 | Photos 109 | Page Improvements | Comments 192 | Posts 280 | Stars 1928 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Straight ... (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: If anyone knows the actual name of this route let me know and I'll correct it.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Wind Shear (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Have you climbed this? If so can you please provide more info.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Broken Ar... (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: If anyone knows the actual name of this route let me know and I'll correct it.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: :)


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Max, do you not like my Mountain Project descriptions?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : A Nasty Gash (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: A good route that deserves more attention. Easily goes in one pitch.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : Main Wall : The Gold Card Direct (5.12a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Is calling this Gold Card Indirect a typo?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Miss Conception (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: P1 (5.9): Gear, then two bolts.

P2 (5.10a): Fully bolted (7 bolts).

P3 (5.10c): Fully bolted (10 bolts). No run out; anchor is replaced and bomber.

Three raps back down the route with a 60m rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I updated the description to indicate that the bolts have been replaced.

I was nervous getting on this with a single set of big cams, but excited to climb a 10d "continuous OW". Fortunately, or unfortunately, this is like most Red Rocks "crack climbs": it's really a face climb. Rests throughout and I can't remember doing a single offwidth move on the whole pitch = not continuous. Despite that, this route is enjoyable (though way easier than rated) climbing with good position.

Worried about no... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : City Fathers (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: A classic route with an improbable crux that is worth the effort to locate. I supplemented the bolts with a green and yellow Alien. The anchor could benefit from proper lowering hardware.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this again last week and updated my description. It is indeed R in two spots. The traverse pitch is easy if you skip the final bolt (still well-protected) and step down before moving over to the belay - I can see how it would feel like the crux if you get greedy and try to clip the final bolt before doing the move.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : Over The Rainbow (West Face... (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: How are you going to get us a copy if you have it scanned but can't read it well?

If you are working on a guidebook I'm sure you have basic photo editing skills for this kind of thing. In my experience you can make a faint scan/photo much more readable by simply tweaking the contrast.

My suggestion is that you upload what you've got to this page so it can actually be useful to the community.

Also, offer to hand-off this description to someone who is more familiar with the route.

Otherwise, ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Yes. Please do.

And a Lee Vining Canyon area is a fine idea.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : The Flying Buttress (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: A good route but maybe not a classic: some questionable rock and two hanging belays (one of which can be eliminated with a 70m rope) detract, but the roof pitch is memorable and there are several other fun sections. Soft for the grade?

P1: 5.8
P2: 5.10d
P3: 5.10c
P4: 5.10c
P5: 5.11a
P6: 5.10a

Link P3 (the hand crack roof/face traverse) and P4 (the long flake/short finger crack) with a 70 to eliminate one of the hanging belays.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: What does that mean? Cuz technically speaking Eric's content is located in the wrong spot (Tuolumne) and mine was in the right spot (the High Sierras)...


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Podunk Mesa Tower : Gofer (5.11+)
By: Josh Janes When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: So what is it called anyway?

Enjoyed Adrenaline Circus (thanks!)... How does this one compare?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Josh Janes When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: C'mon Steven, you called it your first 13a on FB and are now downrating it here? Sure Trad Warrior is probably 12c, but this is solid 13a.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak
By: Josh Janes When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The descent from the summit is via three rappels down the Langdon Route. A single 80m cord works, and a 70 almost works: A bit of easy scrambling across a ledge after the first rappel off the top is required, the second rappel is no problem, but on the final rappel a 70 will leave you 15-20' short, but some creative problem solving can make it work.

Every anchor has 4 bolts - three of which are vintage and one of which is modern - but the real issue is the cluster of bleached, crispy webbing wo... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Aikido Gun Boy (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Due to the warnings in the route description I inspected this route on rappel - what I found was plenty of great gear and I had no qualms about pulling my rope and trying it on lead immediately. The 000 C3 seemed as good as such a piece can be, but regardless there is other solid gear just below and even off to the side if you really want it. Just wanted to provide another opinion.

However, I could not find a 5.11 way to climb it: the bolts make it a contrived 5.12 (broken holds?). The opening ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: No.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : The Kokanee Corner (5.13+)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Nice Hayden! I've seen the bolts right of Sacred Space shining in the sun from below for years and have wondered what it was... Looks like an outrageous position!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Chris, here's the deal with the approach/deproach: There is a narrow foot ledge that leads west across the wall and is only 4th class, but very exposed. It ends at the cave. You must have come up from below more directly. To retreat, you can reverse this traverse, but about 20' below the cave is a single bolt from which you can rappel: A 35 meter rap leaves you at a point where you can just begin scrambling easily down the slab.

Glad you liked the climb and I agree, it does sadly finish right i... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Strip : Lime Kiln : Mantis (5.12c)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Mantis.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Into The Wild (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Unless hold have broken since I've done it you're dreaming to call this any harder than 12a.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Please be exceptionally careful to pack out all your garbage (including orange peels, tape, poop, etc) from this beautiful area. Also, the various bones and skeletons serve to mark the path and create ambiance - consider leaving them untouched. Blog less, climb more, and enjoy this pristine, special area.


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