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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes

Josh Janes
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Point Rank: # 46
Total Points: 8,035
Last Year: 273
Last 30 Days: 44
183 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3547 | Routes 479 | Areas 162 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements | Comments 235 | Posts 343 | Stars 2193 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag
By: Josh Janes When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Thank you Mike - I stand corrected.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: Many routes here have anchors that consist of bolts, quicklinks, and rap rings. The problem is those rap rings are fat, but hollow, aluminum rap rings (I believe made by OP). These rings shouldn't be used at anchors on single pitch climbs as they look nearly identical to fat steel rings but are much less durable and can only survive a very limited number of lowers. Beware!!!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : Ripped Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: Approach Strokin' the Bishop and Lopin' the Mule by climbing the obvious bolted access pitch on the left side of the wall at 5.9. Rapping from this pitch requires just a touch of downclimbing with a single 70m rope.

El Sendero del Vagabundo, Ripped Wall, Biaji's Boulevard, and Animal Party can more directly be approached by climbing an old overgrown, but short, pitch on the right side of the wall at 5.8. However, arguably the best option is to do the lefthand approach and use Strokin' the Bisho... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Indecent Exposure Buttress : Indecent Exposure (5.9+)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this recently and saw no signs of bees, but it was cold and they were possibly dormant - can't say for sure. It seemed like this route hadn't been climbed in months which is a shame because it's amazing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Cactus Connection (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Great route! ...but bring a saw and pruning shears.

Also, there is what appears to be a new-ish bolted anchor (I added some cord but future parties may wish to bring a couple quicklinks) that allowed rappelling down to the platform at the start with a 60m rope (just barely). This skips the "leap" move.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Mass Extinction Block
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: If this gem were located in the Calico Hills, it would be sprayed with bolts. Thank god it isn't!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Las Animas Wall : Mind's Eye (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Where is this route located?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Janes Wall : Pigs in Zen (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 8, 2015

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Comments: One of the best.

Note for future bolt replacers: If anyone ever decides to replace the anchor on this route, move it about 4-5 feet higher. As is, the anchor is below your knees when you finally reach the hands-free stance.

The Janes Wall can easily be approached from the First Pullout by heading up towards Ultraman then cutting left. I like this better than coming in from the Second Pullout.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : California 12a : California 12a (5.12c)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: The anchor has been moved higher to the no-hands rest and true finish to the route. Now the old anchor has become the last pro bolt and thus the climb has a total of 7 pro bolts leading to an anchor equipped with mussy hooks.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Max: link 2&3 and skip the only hanging belay. You could also easily and naturally link 4&5 (the 5.10 pitch into the direct, 5.11 finish), though I haven't done this latter link.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: You must have been having a bad day, KN! I thought the crux was soft for 11c... But the whole route is very sustained at 11a. Lots of slippery burl and pumpy cracks of all sizes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Separate Reality (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: I'm sorry you found my suggestion silly but I think you missed the point.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : First Impressions: Joshua T...
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: I have the first edition (2011) and noticed that the second edition (2014) now lacks The Underground Chasm.

Are there any other omissions in the newer version?

Are the additions, updates, and corrections in the newer version enough to justify purchasing it (being that I already have the first edition)?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Spell (5.10)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: None of the comments really mention what gear you need on the small end. The answer is not much. Doing this again I'd bring the following:

1x #6, #5 Camalot
2x #4, #3 Camalots
1x #2 Camalot
1x 0.5 Camalot (for the exit move at the top of the chimney)
A couple medium wires for the belay between pitches

There is a hidden bolted line to gain the north summit around the corner from the obvious one - it's much easier.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Wailing Banshees (5.11a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: I adopted and rewrote the description of this route to reflect all of these comments and my recent experience on the route.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Howling (5.10a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: The righthand crack is what I took before first writing this route up on MP. As Karsten says, it is the best climbing. A few days ago I repeated the route via the left hand option (two systems - a crack and chimney - which kinda merge together). While not of the same quality, it is far easier, faster, and more direct (ending conveniently at the bolted belay beneath the money pitch).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: It has been there for as long as I've climbed the route and will hopefully remain there. My two cents: Anyone with any business climbing this route should have no problems using care climbing past this feature. Also, I happen to think it is a really cool feature that adds to the climb.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Rites of Spring (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: I led this in two pitches and didn't place a single piece smaller than 0.4 Camalot. Leave the small cams and RP's behind?

I think it would be possible to rap from the top anchor diagonally down to the anchor of Astrolamb and thus rappel with a single 70m cord though I cannot confirm that it works.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Shattered Glass (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: An amazing piece of climbing: 5 out of 4 stars.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Airhead (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Dylan, thanks for that great addition to the original description!


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Bad route descriptions? NIMBY! :)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Beach, Right Side
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Thanks much Darrell - looking forward to a first visit to the beach!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Beach, Right Side
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: A couple questions:

What time does this wall go into the shade? Does "Tree Line" see shade as well?

Can Crystal Voyage be rappelled with a single 70m as indicated here (the book calls for two ropes)?

Cheers!


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: "First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh."

Ugh? Ugh: Typical east coast squabbling. I guess when you only have a tiny bit of scrappy rock to play on you feel a compulsion to argue about a 5' variation to the first pitch (and it's the approach pitch!) of a two pitch 5.9. Hey, I can't really fault you. But nice job giving the blow-by-blow description Andy - apologies if my submission was misleading or not detailed enough for yo... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Nematode : Bovine Guidance (5.11b) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Well, that is certainly debatable. Good route, but doesn't make my City Top Twenty.


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