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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes

Josh Janes
is a member of
Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 8,322
Last Year: 445
Last 30 Days: 22
195 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3807 | Routes 492 | Areas 168 | Photos 124 | Page Improvements | Comments 262 | Posts 403 | Stars 2338 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: 4 days ago

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Comments: "Fantastic Route?" "...The best rock...?" Four stars? Seriously folks? I might expect that from locals who have never climbed outside of Smith Rock, but from well-traveled climbers such as Mr. Palo, such a quality rating is unfathomable. Mr. Tepfer writes “…the rock quality… [is] quite good, especially when compared with the routes around it.” I break out into a cold sweat to think what those routes might be like! Now granted, I... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Iceberg A-1 (WI3 R)
By: Josh Janes When: 4 days ago

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Comments:



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Hotline (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Thanks for the great addition, Karsten!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this the other day and was happy with Luke's rack beta. I'd add the following:

Retreat: I believe you could rap, in a pinch, from as high as the Truck Stop with a single 70m rope leaving behind minimal, if any, gear by using various anchors from other routes. We didn't test this but I was paying attention on the way up. Beyond the Truck Stop it would still be possible, though problematic, due to the traversing and overhanging... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Black Mamba (5.10 PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: A fantastic route if climbed to the top of the crack system (P4), skipping the loose and contrived faces above. One can rappel from here with a single 60, and a confident chimney climber can do this route with single set to #4 Camalot. In fact, I have linked pitches 2, 3, and 4 into a single lead and rope drag is minimal. Alternate approach beta can be found on the Velveteen Rabbit route description.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Natural Log Cabin (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 3, 2016

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Comments: At any crag on the planet you could award yourself 12a.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Red Rocks : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: I love this photo.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Starlord (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: So is this thing a legit tower, a kinda tower if you employ imagination, or a not a tower even remotely?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: I've only ever approached via Misery Ridge.

How do Asterisk Pass and Aggro Gully approaches compare in terms of time and effort?


Location: CA : High Sierra : 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine ... : Merriam Peak : The Foundation Crack (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 29, 2016

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Comments: Though not strictly needed, I placed the bolt at the top and the bolt at the start so that future parties would be confident that they're rapping at the right spot and beginning the climb at the right spot. That said, if someone wanted to place a second bolt at either or both of these locations to make proper, more convenient anchors, I'd be fine with that. In fact, if someone wanted to add an anchor at that stance 40' below the top to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Coyote Calling (5.11+)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: If ever this route needs or gets a rebolt, moving the first pitch anchors just a few feet over would make a lot of sense. It would not only allow one to finish one of the hardest moves on the route and reach a stance before clipping the anchor (rather than clipping the anchor almost mid-move) but it would also put the belay at a relatively comfortable and logical position (rather than being fully hanging).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Enduro Man's Longest Hangou... (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: When I did this route I checked out the gear placements on the first pitch on rappel. I felt the RP was good but, as Jon mentioned, difficult to place properly, and if it broke or fell out you'd be in a world of hurt. If I was local and it wasn't the middle of the hot, sweaty summer, I would have perhaps spent some time rehearsing this section. Instead I came up with another solution: I climbed a ways up Directissima from the ground and placed a good cam w... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Silver Threads (5.10b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Richard, why did you delete your comment? Now my comment makes me sound like I'm talking to myself. I particularly enjoyed the confession that you're not an adventure climber and that your nut tool was inadequate, not to mention the classic tidbit about returning with "leather gloves and a trowel"!

PS: If that yellow Metolius FCU was your bail piece, let me know - I have it and would gladly send it your way.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Silver Threads (5.10b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: I found the route description above so colorful that my eyes glazed over and I couldn't make heads or tails of it. I also found the comments about the vegetation on this route to be a bit exaggerated. No offense guys, it's not you - it's me.

Richard Shore's photo shows the start quite well: The climber is on an unprotected but clean and positive face. He will very shortly step left into the "overgrown... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Killer Whale (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Great comment! Adds a lot to the description!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : The Velveteen Rabbit (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: There are two Jet Streams and two Fear and Loathings. I reckon it is within the realm of possibility.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Blindspot (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Neil's rack beta is good: Double set to 0.5 Camalot, singles from there on up. In fact, I would consider both the #3 and #4 completely optional.

Also, it hasn't been mentioned but if it's not obvious, the penultimate rappel doesn't follow the route but goes straight down to a dedicated rap anchor.

With more traffic this route will clean up to be a classic!


Location: Eastern States : Travel Nursing rock climber... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: How do you guys like the vertical bike mounts on one door? Any problems operating the door or any other issues?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slippery Buttress : Tongue and Groove (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: Sick for Toys is probably better 5.10 slabbing... but on the other hand you could counter that Sick for Toys is actually 5.11 :)


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: I think it's a bit of a stretch to call this a four-star classic (and probably to call it 5.7 for that matter) - considering the descent is perhaps more stimulating than the route... that said, this would be a fun route to take your adventurous grandmother up prior to dinner at Robuchon or a late night at Hakkasan.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Nelson, want to know what I think is the "best finger crack in Red Rocks" (and one that deserves the 5.11 grade)? Well, I'm going to tell you! Cactus Connection's second pitch. But you have to do a bit of work to get to it. And even better, though only rated 5.10 (though harder than Bloodline) is Mr. Natural. Check 'em out!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : The Schwa (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: From the anchor one could do a double-rope rap all the way to the ground. Alternatively, with a single 60m rope, rap to the Diving Board and then easily scramble to the anchor atop the route Beautiful Bastard. From here, rappel two more times to the ground.

The direct start involves some 5.10- climbing up hollow rock above dubious pro. The actual crux (mid-5.11) is challenging but well protected provided one has one or two pieces in the blue Metolius or red C3 size. That's the sweet spot: 0.3 ... more >>


Location: Leavittator : Clark Mountain : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: This photo is very upsetting to me.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Jordan for your crucial beta! It's amazing that you unlocked that secret and even better that you would take the time to share it with the rest of us. And also thank you for your insightful comments on every route you recently climbed in the Valley - it sounds like it was a great trip.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : Beautiful Bastard (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch of this route (5.10d), which can easily be linked as one long pitch from the ground, is excellent. From the intermediate anchor, continue up a steep headwall with good gear and holds. From the highest anchor, one can lower all the way to the ground with an 80m rope (otherwise lower twice). A single set of cams from small to #2 or #3 Camalot, with a few extra fingers-sized pieces, is adequate for the linkup.


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