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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes

Josh Janes
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Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 8,299
Last Year: 436
Last 30 Days: 16
193 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3727 | Routes 492 | Areas 167 | Photos 124 | Page Improvements | Comments 254 | Posts 387 | Stars 2284 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: I've only ever approached via Misery Ridge.

How do Asterisk Pass and Aggro Gully approaches compare in terms of time and effort?


Location: CA : High Sierra : 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine ... : Merriam Peak : The Foundation Crack (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 29, 2016

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Comments: Though not strictly needed, I placed the bolt at the top and the bolt at the start so that future parties would be confident that they're rapping at the right spot and beginning the climb at the right spot. That said, if someone wanted to place a second bolt at either or both of these locations to make proper, more convenient anchors, I'd be fine with that. In fact, if someone wanted to add an anchor at that stance 40' below the top to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Coyote Calling (5.11+)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: If ever this route needs or gets a rebolt, moving the first pitch anchors just a few feet over would make a lot of sense. It would not only allow one to finish one of the hardest moves on the route and reach a stance before clipping the anchor (rather than clipping the anchor almost mid-move) but it would also put the belay at a relatively comfortable and logical position (rather than being fully hanging).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Enduro Man's Longest Hangou... (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: When I did this route I checked out the gear placements on the first pitch on rappel. I felt the RP was good but, as Jon mentioned, difficult to place properly, and if it broke or fell out you'd be in a world of hurt. If I was local and it wasn't the middle of the hot, sweaty summer, I would have perhaps spent some time rehearsing this section. Instead I came up with another solution: I climbed a ways up Directissima from the ground and placed a good cam w... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Silver Threads (5.10b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Richard, why did you delete your comment? Now my comment makes me sound like I'm talking to myself. I particularly enjoyed the confession that you're not an adventure climber and that your nut tool was inadequate, not to mention the classic tidbit about returning with "leather gloves and a trowel"!

PS: If that yellow Metolius FCU was your bail piece, let me know - I have it and would gladly send it your way.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Silver Threads (5.10b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: I found the route description above so colorful that my eyes glazed over and I couldn't make heads or tails of it. I also found the comments about the vegetation on this route to be a bit exaggerated. No offense guys, it's not you - it's me.

Richard Shore's photo shows the start quite well: The climber is on an unprotected but clean and positive face. He will very shortly step left into the "overgrown... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Killer Whale (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Great comment! Adds a lot to the description!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall : The Velveteen Rabbit (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: There are two Jet Streams and two Fear and Loathings. I reckon it is within the realm of possibility.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Blindspot (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Neil's rack beta is good: Double set to 0.5 Camalot, singles from there on up. In fact, I would consider both the #3 and #4 completely optional.

Also, it hasn't been mentioned but if it's not obvious, the penultimate rappel doesn't follow the route but goes straight down to a dedicated rap anchor.

With more traffic this route will clean up to be a classic!


Location: Eastern States : Travel Nursing rock climber... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: How do you guys like the vertical bike mounts on one door? Any problems operating the door or any other issues?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slippery Buttress : Tongue and Groove (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: Sick for Toys is probably better 5.10 slabbing... but on the other hand you could counter that Sick for Toys is actually 5.11 :)


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: I think it's a bit of a stretch to call this a four-star classic (and probably to call it 5.7 for that matter) - considering the descent is perhaps more stimulating than the route... that said, this would be a fun route to take your adventurous grandmother up prior to dinner at Robuchon or a late night at Hakkasan.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Nelson, want to know what I think is the "best finger crack in Red Rocks" (and one that deserves the 5.11 grade)? Well, I'm going to tell you! Cactus Connection's second pitch. But you have to do a bit of work to get to it. And even better, though only rated 5.10 (though harder than Bloodline) is Mr. Natural. Check 'em out!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : The Schwa (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: From the anchor one could do a double-rope rap all the way to the ground. Alternatively, with a single 60m rope, rap to the Diving Board and then easily scramble to the anchor atop the route Beautiful Bastard. From here, rappel two more times to the ground.

The direct start involves some 5.10- climbing up hollow rock above dubious pro. The actual crux (mid-5.11) is challenging but well protected provided one has one or two pieces in the blue Metolius or red C3 size. That's the sweet spot: 0.3 ... more >>


Location: Leavittator : Clark Mountain : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: This photo is very upsetting to me.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Jordan for your crucial beta! It's amazing that you unlocked that secret and even better that you would take the time to share it with the rest of us. And also thank you for your insightful comments on every route you recently climbed in the Valley - it sounds like it was a great trip.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : Beautiful Bastard (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch of this route (5.10d), which can easily be linked as one long pitch from the ground, is excellent. From the intermediate anchor, continue up a steep headwall with good gear and holds. From the highest anchor, one can lower all the way to the ground with an 80m rope (otherwise lower twice). A single set of cams from small to #2 or #3 Camalot, with a few extra fingers-sized pieces, is adequate for the linkup.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: So what you're saying is you skipped the first pitch (which is the mental crux) and then skipped the last pitch (which is the physical crux) and yet still recommend it? Nice job "climbing it" and thanks for posting up!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sandstone Samurai (5.11a X)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: I think Clint just came in his pants!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Creekside : Nairobi (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Forgive me for being the lone dissenter, but I really enjoyed all the climbing on this route. I do think some of the clips were tough, but losing the final cruxy slab would be a shame.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: Approaching this wall is much easier via the Corduroy Ridge: Immediately after scrambling up the initial bolted slab on the left, gain the ridge (do not continue up the canyon). Follow this (a couple exposed 5.0 moves here and there) until directly opposite and above the arch of The Breathing Stone. Hug the left edge of the ridge here and scramble down left into a notch continuing down slabs either directly and improbably to The Breathing Stone or more obviously slightly up canyon to Mr. Natural... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall : Mr. Natural of the Desert (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: I recommend the following rack:

3 ea. Black Alien/Purple C3 - Green Alien/Red C3
1 ea. 0.4 Camalot - #3 Camalot
2 ea. #4, #5 Camalot (I did it with only one #4 and #5 but this required heavy-handed back cleaning)
1 set of Stoppers

We barely made it down with an 80m rope... I think the climb is closer to 140'.

Approaching this route is much easier via the Corduroy Ridge: Immediately after scrambling up the initial bolted slab on the left, gain the ridge (do not c... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : Beast Master (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: When going to climb Southern Revival, should one climb this or the original pitch? If one climbs this, can one get away without #4 Camalots on the route?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 6, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Mike - I stand corrected.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: Many routes here have anchors that consist of bolts, quicklinks, and rap rings. The problem is those rap rings are fat, but hollow, aluminum rap rings (I believe made by OP). These rings shouldn't be used at anchors on single pitch climbs as they look nearly identical to fat steel rings but are much less durable and can only survive a very limited number of lowers. Beware!!!


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