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One of my favorite climbs in JTNP. Can you guess t...


Member Since: Feb 16, 2005
Last Visit: Oct 20, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,606
Total Points: 388
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Hibbard been climbing?










Contributions


All 193 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts | Stars 53 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Photo
By: Josh Hibbard When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: John Svenson would probably be one of the "go to" guys for any beta on Mt. Emmerick, including various routes besides the SW wall.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 1 : ... : Easter Overflow (5.9)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this for the 6-7th time this weekend and found a set of bolts on top, which came in handy as it started to rain...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Toe the Line (5.9)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: An oddly placed bolt with no hanger still lies toward the start of this route. Try not to fall on it. I wish someone would yank the bolt.... it would pierce you if you fell on it... perhaps this danger adds to the 5.9 rating :-)
The crack is fun, but wished it was longer...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Hot Crossed Buns (5.6 PG13)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Sep 16, 2010

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Comments: I couldn't find any bolts between the crack (mentioned above) and the anchor, which is where the runout section is located. However, the climbing is very laid back at this point.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak : Southeast Buttress (5.6)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Sep 16, 2010

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Comments: Looks like there are two "rap stations" off the 3rd/4th class decent as of 9/6/2010. The first is a few slings around a small tree. The second is around a block. We happened to rap off the first station (toward climbers left) to a long, thin "ledge" that we took to the ridge and down the now well marked trail.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Holdless Horror (5.7 PG13)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Sep 16, 2010

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Comments: I climbed this last week with a friend (Anne Marie). It took me too long to find it on Mountain Project because I couldn't believe it was rated 5.7 PG-13 and was looking for the 5.6 climb on Dozier Dome. I didn't notice any runout and felt the climbing more 5.6. In my opinion, this would be a classic moderate climb if crack on the final pitch was more vertical. Unfortunately, the angle lays back a bit much on the final pitch. Solid placements throughout. I extended the anchor on the final belay ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo (Copy)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Feb 1, 2009

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Comments: I saw 14 people in their watching the sunset this weekend... It might just be a J-Tree record for the Space Pod.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Ritter
By: Josh Hibbard When: Jul 30, 2008

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Comments: I made a video documenting our climb up Mt. Ritter's Southeast Glacier, via the Norman Clyde variation. It is cheesy, but has some decent beta for the climber. Go to: www.youtube.com/joshuatree100


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Roan Way (5.8+ R)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: After climbing The Swift (5.7), I headed to Dappled Mare (5.8). Since the last pitch of Dappled Mare connects with the last pitch of The Swift (which we just finished climbing) I chose to climb Roan Way (5.8) as it looked very interesting from the bolt belay on Dappled Mare. If I had known it was "R" there is no way I would have climbed it. However, I thought that the runnout on the first move (which was a solid 5.8-5.9 move for a 5'7'' guy) was not bad (about 15 feet) which is standard for many... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Atlantis Wall
By: Josh Hibbard When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: Beware of the crowds on the weekends. Went there last weekend (11/07) and there were at least 20 people on this wall. One group had empty beer cans scatter at the base of the climb and were listening to heavy metal rock on their stereo which could have been heard from Indian Cove. (I have nothing against beer or music, just in moderation and in consideration to others). We left the wall to these wankers and headed to Lost Horse Wall...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Oct 14, 2007

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Comments: I have always avoided this route because it looked very intimidating. Finally climbed it last week and enjoyed it very much. It protects well, especially the crux moves.

I noticed that there are many opinions on the first pitch in this thread. The trouble with this is that there are numerous variations on the first pitch, especially the lower section. Go way left and make it a walk up, or choose the more challenging route and make it a 5.6 to 5.8.

The route is next to the road, so expect a n... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: The first pitch is slippery, as indicated. Even if it was not slippery, I would still rate it a 5.7. It is a very fun climb. The down climb is a very decent trail off to climbers left... Very easy approach... A bear box is near the base of the climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : South Buttress (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Apr 24, 2007

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Comments: This was a fun climb. We broke it into two pitches because we didn't know what to expect on the summit. This worked out well for us as it gave us both some lead fun. The obvious belay for the second pitch is at the base of 20 or so foot off width (not steep). If you do it in two pitches and want a quick anchor, walk up the summit slab to two south facing bolts (one of which is loose). The most difficult part of this moderate route is the first 15 feet off the deck, in my opinion.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Photo
By: Josh Hibbard When: Apr 2, 2007

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Comments: Beautiful photo!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Castle Rock Area : ... : Knightline (5.10)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 29, 2007

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Comments: I thought Knightline was two or three climbs to the left of this one. Not sure of the name of the climb pictured, but I believe it is more of a 5.10a. Knightline, which is more on the face around the left corner of this climb, goes at 5.10C with two sets of crux moves. I could be wrong... I will see if I can figure it out in my old guide book.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Mind Bender (5.10a/b)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 29, 2007

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Comments: The guide books and the metal sign at Big Rock dub this a 5.9. However, the beginning (up to the hand-sized hole) seems more difficult than 5.9 to me. The dike provides some features for your feet, yet it is very slippery. I have climbed this route since 2003 and am guessing that a foothold broke loose making it a 5.10 route. Or, I might just be getting old and fat...


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Puppy Dog (5.6)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 29, 2007

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Comments: I enjoy warming up on this climb as it is not as "slippery" as some of the other climbs of the same rating.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Hot Tub Honey (5.8)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb and have done it twice. Getting past the first two bolts was fun. The rest isn't much, but worth doing if you are in the area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Hodgepodge (5.4 R)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: To make this climb more challenging, I tied in with a bowline on a coil and climbed it in my flip-flops under the light of the moon. It felt like a 5.8 under the circumstances.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Short Crack (5.4)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: A fun, short climb, good for beginner trad leaders as the two cracks suck up plenty of pro.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 11 : ... : Bittersweet (5.9+)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: This climb felt more like 5.10 to me...
I would only recommend it if you are camping in Group Site #5 and don't want to leave camp...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : The Swift (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: I've done this route a few times now and have always enjoyed it. It is windy in areas so a few double runners in select spots will really help with the rope drag. Down climb to the climbers right if you want to get back to the start of the route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Shark's Fin Arete (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007

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Comments: A star or two if only for the view of Whitney!


Location: AK
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007

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Comments: In addition to the above information on Alaska:
-You can also get there by boat. The Alaska Marine Highway leaves Seattle area (Bellingham) for most of the Southeast Alaska towns and up towards Anchorage. You can get a stateroom or pitch your tent on the solarium.
- Alaskans are very friendly and will give directions, as indicated in the above description. However, don't expect street names or street numbers. Be prepared for directions such as, "follow this here dirt road for about 5 minutes. T... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: Josh Hibbard When: Mar 26, 2007

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Comments: I climbed this a couple years ago and really enjoyed it. Supertopo makes a very good route description and diagram for detailed beta(as does the description above).I do remember reaching a huge block on the final pitch of which the only feature was a crack system to the top of the block. My friend went up the crack and thought it to be more like 5.9, not 5.7. My partner and I took an airy step around the left side of the block (climbers left) and the move was not more than 5.7 and was easily pro... more >>


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