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1200 year old petroglyph near Valley of the Gods.


Member Since: Nov 8, 2005
Last Visit: Mar 26, 2014
Contact Josh Ewing


Point Rank: # 2,153
Total Points: 255
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Ewing been climbing?










Contributions


All 138 | Routes 12 | Areas 4 | Photos 9 | Page Improvments | Comments 30 | Posts 27 | Stars 38 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Incredible Spam Crack (5.9)
By: Josh Ewing When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Perhaps the best 5.9 at the Creek, although the awkward start will give many 5.9 leaders a hard time. Not much of a warm-up for the crag classics, but a great option for beginners.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Beat the Meat (5.11+)
By: Josh Ewing When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Climbs better than it looks. Good jamming and OW, with plenty of feet features. Way longer than 120 feet. Prolly 150-160. Variety pack gear, starting at yellow metolious (0.75 in), with extra off-fingers and thin hands pieces.... running through the big stuff.. One each 4-6 camalots will get the job done, but you won't be sewing it up. Did it with nothing bigger than a #4 friend and had to do a 40ish foot runout at the end. Difficult move to gain the anchors is ridonkulous with all that ro... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Unnamed (1) (5.11)
By: Josh Ewing When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: Quality. Longer and even more interesting than it looks from the ground. The crux crack switch is hard, but well protected. When it rolls over on the top, the climbing eases, but is still engaging.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Steer It Up (5.10)
By: Josh Ewing When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: The route pictured and described here is great. You can just barely make it down with an 80 meter rope. 70 isn't close.

I'm not really sure this is the route Bloom describes as Steer It Up. If so, his gear beta is way off, and the topo just doesn't look too much like it. There is another long 5.10 ish looking corner, which is clearly right facing, another 50 yards further left (west out on the ledge shown in the Bloom topo), which seems to fit his description better.

This route is only may... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Goosenecks of the San Juan
By: Josh Ewing When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: A good place for locals or anyone traveling through in the cooler months. Not a destination by any means though.

This is actually a ginormous area. The cliff band goes for miles and miles, with literally thousands of problems possible. Most problems are dead vertical technical face climbs or sharp cracks. My favorite problems are the aretes. There are also some very good roof problems where the cliff band has been undercut. The cliff band ranges from 12-25 feet high, making some problems quit... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Unbelievable (5.12)
By: Josh Ewing When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: A clean 5.11 corner with one or two hard moves (well protected). This is on my list for anchor replacement...but let me know if you get there first.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Echo Pinnacle : Free Window Route (5.10+)
By: Josh Ewing When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: I'm in on the re-bolting mission. When I climbed this a few years back, I remember thinking it would be one of the best in the desert, if it weren't for the mank on that last pitch. Although I freed it on TR, my partner used some french free skills to lessen the risk factor on the old gear. Anyone interested...pm. I've got drill and hangers...need some bolts though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Mondo (5.12a)
By: Josh Ewing When: Nov 21, 2012

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Comments: I hate to play the "hard size for my hand size" card, but this one felt ridiculously hard...much harder than at least three 5.13s at the Creek (Tricks, Optimator, Ruby's). I guess this is penance for all those thin hands cracks, which don't seem that hard. The crux move over the low roof seems just on the edge of possible, with the right-hand jam too rattly to really help. And the last 60 feet of new 4 camalots are just beyond rattly fists...requiring a lot of stacking with bad feet. One of the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Rambo (5.12-)
By: Josh Ewing When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: A good example of a classic IC splitter that's getting loved to death. You can't blame people for wanting to get on this striking line, but the blown out pods, scratched-off varnish, and rounded green-camalot jams attest to the fact that we can wear out the rock in just a few short years. If you do get on this route, perhaps forgo the tape and multiple TR burns,


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Desire (5.10)
By: Josh Ewing When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: One of the better "beginner OWs" at the Creek. 3-4 pieces in the "new 5 camalot" range and maybe one larger piece (new 6 or old 5) should be enough. Can be TR'd after rapping off of Layaway Plan.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Cube Steaks (5.10)
By: Josh Ewing When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: Might be my favorite 5.10 at the Creek. Not your typical slog. Engaging, fun climbing the whole way, with some good laybacking to the anchor after 90 feet of climbing. The only drawbacks are the slightly sketchy start and the the anchor placement at the end...but you'll hardly notice after all the fun climbing you've just enjoyed in between.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Family Home Night (5.12)
By: Josh Ewing When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: A quality route, with engaging and challenging climbing. Good rests keep it from being too sustained. But some heady moves keep your attention. You really don't want to fall once embarking on the "banana splitter" down low, at least until you're well established in the flare after the banana. And, once you leave the ledge, it's again "no fall territory" until you're 15ish feet above the ledge. You can get in some marginal gear, but calm and techy climbing provide better protection than your g... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hammond Canyon : Upper Hammond Spire : Unknown (5.11 PG13)
By: Josh Ewing When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Guessing there have been fewer than a handful of ascents of this one...but it's worth the trip if you're into towers. If anybody knows anything about the first ascent, I'd be happy to give credit where it's due.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Heat Searcher (5.11+)
By: Josh Ewing When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: Great climb. Worst possible anchor placement. I'll add a bolt around the arete next time to allow a comfortable belay for the second pitch. Otherwise, do it in one crazy long 70m pitch, trailing a second line. Burly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: Josh Ewing When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: If you find yourself at the top of this route without a rope (how'd that happen?), the down climb into the Painted Bowl is quite reasonable for anyone who made it this far without a rope. Here's the beta. First locate the normal rappels into the Painted Bowl by scrambling left (west toward Eagle wall) in the red rock up high. Eventually the ramps/ledges will head down into the top of the Painted Bowl on a narrow ledge. At the first rappel anchor, carefully down climb about 10 feet to a good s... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Hydraulic Pump (5.12+)
By: Josh Ewing When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: One of the best. The difficulty really does depend on how much gear you place. The anchors are pretty mank. I'll replace them the next time I'm there, but if anyone beats me to it, let me know.


Location: UT : Moab Area : The Needles District : The New World Order (5.12c V6)
By: Josh Ewing When: Aug 31, 2008

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Comments: Would you mid sharing where this is at? Would love to check it out.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Mad Dog (5.11)
By: Josh Ewing When: Mar 5, 2008

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Comments: A tricky route that feels sequential down low. A smaller piece (yellow) can protect standing up on the ledge to start the crack proper. Take some #1.5 friends and a couple of green camalots. The splitter out the roof fits #1 camalots best. You'll probably only need one #2 camalot for the finish.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Curiosity (5.11)
By: Josh Ewing When: Mar 5, 2008

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Comments: Ditto on the superlatives. A sweet crack that doesn't get done too often. It'll test all your 5.11 crack skills. Don't trust the book's gear suggestion. Starts with #1.5 friend layback that gradually opens to hands. A very physical and overhanging section on perfect hands leads to a tricky move getting into the flare, which takes #3.5 friends in the back. I'd recommend at least 4-5 of this size. I'd also recommend at least (3) #4 friends (old 3.5 camalots).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Bad Cat (5.12b)
By: Josh Ewing When: Mar 5, 2008

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Comments: The splitter at the bottom is very sequential for me and certainly the crux. Solid 5.12. The rest is a 5.11 endurance fest. As for gear, you'll want at least one #1 friend (orange metolious) for the splitter. A purple metolious is helpful for reaching the splitter. Also, some 1 camalots are very helpful for the thin hands and fit better than the #2 friends. Green camalots are helpful as well. I only placed 2 #1.5 friends. A #3.5 friend is helpful near the top where... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Tenderloins (5.12)
By: Josh Ewing When: Feb 23, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Timmy...I added the FA. Yeah, the plaque says 11+. I could see if you're a really strong laybacker, like Hong was, that it would feel about that grade. For my pussy laybacking skills, it felt like 5.12 to me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Mad Cow Disease (5.11-)
By: Josh Ewing When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Most will want a blue TCU to protect the last couple of moves to clip the anchors.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Moore Cutoff Road : Sid and Charley (5.10+) : Photo
By: Josh Ewing When: Nov 19, 2007

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Comments: Where's this at. Looks fun?


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Short Stack (5.10d)
By: Josh Ewing When: Nov 19, 2007

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Comments: Definetely a tough tick at 10d. Add this to the list of 10ds in the Swell that will kick many desert newbies asses. Just in case you're looking for more sandbagged 5.10s, try "once is enough" in Pine Canyon and "All Along the Watch Tower" at the Dylan Wall.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Burgerdier General (5.11c/d)
By: Josh Ewing When: Nov 19, 2007

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Comments: Daren...just did this again last weekend, and you can definitely do it with a 70. And you're probably right about the grade. Probably deserves 5.11+. I wouldn't give it 12-, especially by Swell standards, but it's stiff for 5.11.


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