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Member Since: Mar 3, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2012
Contact Josh Beck


Point Rank: # 1,239
Total Points: 508
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Beck been climbing?










Contributions


All 229 | Routes 21 | Areas 9 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 93 | Posts | Stars 59 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Hercules (5.11c)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 11, 2004

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Comments: IMO this deserves 1 or 2 stars of 5. It's fairly short and the upper part of the crack is very crufty (a piece of mine rolled over and blew out as the cruft and crystals in the upper crack crumbled away. The climbing is challenging and insecure off fingers and liebacking in a flare that is quite awkward and not very inspiring. It is however fairly unique and the challenges it presents are kinda cool but I doubt I'll ever go back for a redpoint. Protects mostly with gear in the .5-1" range, I did... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Absolute Zero (5.10c)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 9, 2004

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Comments: Definitely much easier than the similar move on The Vampire and nothing like Hot Rocks. 1 star of 5 at best though. Not a complete bomb but neither very memorable or recommendable IMO.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 9, 2004

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Comments: Typical jtree climb in that there are bolts where there need to be and no extras. Be careful getting to the first bolt and then the second, although easy climbing, takes you well into groundfall range. After that it's just keeping calm for another 60' of excellent delicate climbing to a fun steep topout. Gear on top is nuts, cams to 2" and looped flakes, your choice. Rap off bolted anchor to climbers left. Probably not a good first 10b and it'll get your attention but not too bad really.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Hot Rocks (5.11b)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 8, 2004

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Comments: If you're taller the crux is certainly easier. I don't know off the top of my head how tall Randy or John are. On a gear note, it's easy to put gear where you need to put your feet on this route.

One of the best routes I've done in the park, ranks w/ O'Kelley Crack, Left Ski Track, Illusion Dweller, Clean and Jerk and the like for me.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 23, 2003

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Comments: Done too long ago to recall the particulars of difficulty but I hardly thought this was a decent route. Not a chosspile or anything, but not one I'd repeat.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Invisibility Lessons (5.9)
By: Josh Beck When: Sep 29, 2003

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Comments: The crux of this climb is actually the left leaning tight hands. Best to place a piece high then pull into it and make a few moves to get to better hands before the next piece goes in. Then eases off to the top. Not hugely sustained but no gimme. Excellent either way, along with Touch and Go probably the best two < 5.10 cracks in the park in my opinion.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Cap Rock Bouldering : Collieherb Boulder : Collieherb (V0)
By: Josh Beck When: May 14, 2003

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Comments: I actually think this is one of the best problems V2 and under in the park. Actually climbs on decent holds with a decent landing, pretty nice! Also recommendable in the area would be Picture Perfect...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: Josh Beck When: May 13, 2003

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Comments: I agree that one should be careful, but I fell about 4 times in the last 15 feet of this route, including onto a shallow purple TCU and all my gear held, FWIW... I suck at liebacks and this thing is burly to protect for sure.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Sicilian (5.11)
By: Josh Beck When: May 13, 2003

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Comments: I agree - very burly. I'm not great on burly liebacks so this was very hard for me - about comparable to Fingers In A Lightsocket, 11+ is fair.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11)
By: Josh Beck When: May 13, 2003

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Comments: This is the most enjoyable single pitch of crack climbing I've ever experienced. Simply a fantastic route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Wounded Knee (5.11-)
By: Josh Beck When: May 13, 2003

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Comments: This is the most overrated route (difficulty, not quality) I've found in the creek yet. Definitely fun. Definitely only 5.10. For me about the same difficulty as IHC and actually easier than Supercrack (I have slightly smaller hands but not tiny). Very fun with a very bizarre but cool move up high in a kinda wide flaky section.

Tempted to call it 10b...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : The Sanga's On Fire (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: The Sanga, The Sanga, The Sanga is on fire. We don't care, let the motherf*cker burn.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Head Over Heals (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: You can also make it a longer (though certainly no more difficult) pitch by veering left up a crack system that continues another 30' to a higher ledge. Downclimb the leftmost gully off the backside (3rd class) and return in the notch climber's right of the start of the route by tunneling under all the difficulties (look around for the lowest/inobvious tunnel to make it much easier).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Head Over Heals (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: I turned the roof on the corner, with the bolt directly over head. I'm 6' even and couldn't seem to reach out of the stem to the jug past the bolt after clipping so I downclimbed and went out the roof. But to be honest, it's a boatload of fun to campus around on huge jugs with your feet over your head and doing the climb by stemming would be missing all that fun! Definitely memorable as the silliest ease:steepness ratio I've climbed in a long while and lots of fun :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: Not to be argumentative but I wouldn't call this really friction climbing - more like thin face and edging. Without all the nice little edges this would be a much more difficult route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Cap Rock Bouldering : Sandy Wash Corridor : All Washed Up (V6 R)
By: Josh Beck When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: Thanks for the info!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Cap Rock Bouldering : Sandy Wash Corridor : All Washed Up (V6 R)
By: Josh Beck When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: I have a question regarding All Washed Up and am hoping that someone can help, sorry if this gets anally into details: I know where it starts and I know that it goes to the top somewhere. I know where Soar Eagle is and where it actually tops out. However I've seen pictures of "Mr. X on All Washed Up" where Mr. X is going over the rounded top exactly above the starting holds and first few edges on the way up. I've seen pictures where Mr. Y is reputed to be on All Washed Up but is going over the t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall
By: Josh Beck When: Apr 8, 2003

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Comments: Agreed, the ratings on the Thin Wall feel quite soft to me.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Polka Dot Wall : Jumbo Pumping Refiners Pood... (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Apr 2, 2003

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Comments: I don't think I've ever seen a "Poodle's Fire" or "Refiner's Poodle" before... maybe "Jumbo Pumping Refiner's Poodle"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Left Ski Track (5.11a)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 27, 2003

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Comments: Oh, re: the red alien placement. A red (#4) TCU fits there MUCH MUCH better, but there are other bomber placements above and below this one as well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Left Ski Track (5.11a)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 27, 2003

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Comments: It took me 4 or 5 tries to red point this one. The first try was practically C1 last spring as I wasn't even strong enough for the route and I quickly discovered (as you did) that the gear is very tricky. However it does protect well. I got 4 excellent pieces in before getting to the bolt, and there's a place for a 5th. I won't publicly post a ton of gear beta for those that don't want to read it, but with Aliens and TCUs it protects quite well and I can assure you that the placements below the ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Damper (5.9)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 26, 2003

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Comments: In my opinion this is probably the best route on Chimney Rock and a mandatory lead for those working their way up the grades on cracks. I agree with Tony that (at least for Men w/ average sized hands) this is a fist crack in a flare more than an OW. Also agree that the downclimb is probably not best for people on their first weekend of climbing, though by the same token this is not a good climb necessarily for a first time climber :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Rubicon (5.10c)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 26, 2003

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Comments: I finally did this route yesterday. I would say that it was more challenging for me than most .10c's I've been on, but I have a tendancy to sew stuff up and I definitely am better at hard moves than I am at sustained climbing, so I got a pretty decent pump. I agree though that .10c sounds good. For me it was harder than Clean and Jerk or Martin Quits (which might be soft by the way), but still easier than Crescent Wrench or Robert's Crack or O'Kelley's Crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Total Generic Package (aka ... (5.11c)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 26, 2003

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Comments: The bolts on this route looked older. Didn't climb the route but went and gave it a decent looking over, probably candidates for replacement.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 26, 2003

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Comments: This is one of the best routes I've done in jtree in a long time, but I also think it's the hardest ".11a" I've been on out there. As hard for me as Hot Rocks, and definitely harder than Left Ski Track or Red Snapper (just chose those routes because they're the most comparably graded routes I've been on recently). I'd call it .11b, but that's just my opinion and I probably missed something...


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