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Member Since: Mar 3, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2012
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Point Rank: # 1,247
Total Points: 508
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Beck been climbing?










Contributions


All 229 | Routes 21 | Areas 9 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 93 | Posts | Stars 59 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Funky than Monkey Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 20, 2003

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Comments: A question for all the hardmen: For a punter (me) with dreams of Separate Reality, I'm working on roof cracks of all sizes for endurance, strength, technique, etc. Obviously I'm working on redpointing this route and have been working on Big Bob's Big Wedge and Pigpen. I'm wondering what people think of other training climbs - I'm hoping to make it to Red Rocks soon and try Desert Reality, and I'm thinking of bushwacking around Woodson until I find Undertow. Other suggestions? Anyone been on Sepa... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Funky than Monkey Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 20, 2003

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Comments: One thing I forgot to add - readily toproped by scrambling up the backside (4th/easy 5th class slab). A safe toprope but if you blow it early in the roof the pendulum is better than disneyland. Be sure to pick up your feet and not drag them through the cat's claw on the way by :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Jack of Hearts (5.9)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 14, 2003

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Comments: Immediately after this climb I did Nolina Crack (10a) and Ace of Spades (9), and both felt a touch harder, so it seems reasonable to me to call this 5.9... A little insecure up high after stepping across the void into the chunky corner but no big deal.

josh


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Cactus Flower (5.11b PG13)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 11, 2003

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Comments: Some friends put a TR on this route a few months back and when I took a stab at it I didn't know you moved up and left past the last bolt, but instead walked out the dike to the right and made a couple of very thin friction moves (11- maybe). Wouldn't want to do this on lead, as you'd look at a massive fall. I've also seen someone hand traverse the dike quite a ways right before mantling, for variety. Looks like you might get some small - medium cams in pockets in the dikes above the last bolt a... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Nolina Crack (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 10, 2003

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Comments: They're very similar in appearance to the Sotol's of Hueco Tanks or the various Yucca species of socal (among which the Joshua Trees, Yucca brevifolia, are included), and are all reasonably closely related being in the Agavaceae Family. Family Agavaceae is in turn in Order Liliopsida, the Lillies...

Sorry for being a geek, my mother is a botanist :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Lechlinski Crack Formation : Waugh Crack (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 10, 2003

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Comments: Chris, I completely agree and I don't worry too much about what something's really rated, instead I think about how hard it is for me and how much enjoyment I get out of it. I really enjoy the constant challenge of new routes that push me, no matter what they're graded. However, many friends of mine and I are all working through the grades, trying to improve and get stronger. For the most part we're working on leading a lot of the classic 10+ to 11s at jtree (mostly cracks) and we trade stories,... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Desert Shield (5.13a)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 9, 2003

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Comments: Thanks for the history of the route... I really enjoy such stuff, it's awesome to have you and many others contributing here :) While I'm not a big fan of glue I certainly am not out doing anything about it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Lechlinski Crack Formation : Waugh Crack (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 9, 2003

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Comments: No one's arguing with Mike Waugh's background. To me this route is harder than either of the Mel Cracks (10c per Vogel, 10b IMHO), harder than Right V Crack (10a per guidebooks but 10c per most people I've talked to and IMHO) and at least as hard as Robert's Crack (10d) if not a bit harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Desert Shield (5.13a)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 9, 2003

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Comments: I've heard tale of a completely manufactured hold on Desert Shield ... does anyone know if this is true or not? Just curious, as my sorry ass isn't going to be going anywhere near that route ;)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Iceberg Boulder : Boortemus (5.10d)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 5, 2003

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Comments: A female friend of ours who also led it commented that it felt harder than Heart of Darkness... so much for ratings ;) I thought 10+ was reasonably fair, though it was short.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c)
By: Josh Beck When: Mar 3, 2003

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Comments: I recently went back to this route. I think that the direct start up the crack is not that bad - maybe 5.11-, certainly looked better than the crimp start, and who wants to use a cheat stone? Overall I would still give this route 5.11a or 5.11b, starting and climbing the crack via a cuppped hand or fist to the finger locks. Still my vote for best route in the park.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Stand and Deliver (aka Span... (5.12a)
By: Josh Beck When: Feb 7, 2003

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Comments: Ditto the above comment - all but the top 2-3 bolts have been chopped, and not well concealed. Anyone know why? It looks like a nice route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face : Left Sawdust Crack (5.10c)
By: Josh Beck When: Feb 4, 2003

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Comments: I agree... I'm generally of the "if I can hit it on the way down or if I can reach it while my other hand is still definitely in the crack / on route, then it's on as well" mindset. They're two different cracks and it's not that hard to avoid the right one at the top and it makes it a bit more difficult, but it is contrived. In the end though it's up to the leader and as long as they have a good time there's no right or wrong.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Corona/Dos Equis Wall : Scare Way (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 30, 2003

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Comments: This is an awesome route - one of the best in Indian Cove for sure :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : Book of Changes (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 24, 2003

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Comments: I don't know who added them, but from what I've heard they've been there since last spring at least. There was a thread on rec.climbing regarding this a few months back as well with a title of "Book of Changes" or very similar, I'm sure you can find it via Google groups.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : Book of Changes (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 24, 2003

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Comments: I climbed the route after this incident and found the crux to be the start... There was still alot of cruft and dirt where the block had obviously been so I did some brushing off to the best of my ability to clean it up some.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Chalk Up Another One (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 21, 2003

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Comments: Climbing casually on a nice greasy day I managed to fall off this one as well :) Definitely polished.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Lechlinski Crack Formation : Lechlinski Cracks (5.9)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 21, 2003

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Comments: There's also a trivial walk off. From the top of the climb scramble up 10' or so behind you to the top of the formation and head pretty much directly away from the climb, veering slightly right. Drop down a slab/ramp to the right of a big boulder then continue over stacked blocks until you can tunnel beneath one of them leading to 50' of blocks to hop down (easy), then contour around right beneath a slabby area back to your packs. Takes about 5 minutes to get back to your pack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Apparition Rock : Apparition (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 20, 2003

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Comments: I've always downclimbed over the other side, a bit to the climber's right. Involves maybe 10-15' of 4th class crack downclimbing as I recall, pretty straightforward. No need for a rap station and definitely not a tricky descent by Joshua Tree standards.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Lechlinski Crack Formation : Waugh Crack (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 19, 2003

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Comments: This route is pretty burly and is strenuous to hang out and protect. Definitely felt harder than .10b to me.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Gray Cell Green (5.10d)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 8, 2003

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Comments: That's about what it felt like to me... I don't frequently onsight 5.11 and this one came relatively easily. Then several weeks later, feeling stronger, I had a very poor showing on Jane's Addiction :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Nobody Walks in LA (5.9)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 7, 2003

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Comments: A more interesting and in my opinion better way to finish this route is to move left 5' from the base of the chimney to a short (12-15') vertical dihedral with a roughly finger sized crack in it. A couple steep moves up this lead to a mantel top out instead of the easier / less elegant squeeze chimney to the right.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 7, 2003

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Comments: The crux of Overseer is very well protected and a clean, slightly overhanging fall as Anonymous Coward mentions. The direct start is definitely more difficult and not well protected for a fledgling 5.10a leader. I haven't fallen on 10a in a long time but it definitely got my attention and a fall wouldn't necessarily be pretty. I somewhat disagree with Chris on the adequacy of the pro but do agree that it's good, stimulating climbing for the competent leader.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Dandelion (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 7, 2003

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Comments: For what it's worth, I think that Orphan is a better route on better rock with better gear, but it's just my opinion and hey, there's other things that everyone has one of too :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : Dangling Woo Li Master (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 7, 2003

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Comments: The mid point of the climb / stemming crux stuff is can be protected pretty well with 1.5" gear, in a horizontal then above in a tight hand crack in the corner. There is also a horn you could sling and hang a truck from.

It is also easy to walk off from this climb, up and right 20' then back following the slabs gently down, then down a 4' step into a gully, then left down the gully and around to your packs at the bottom.

I agree this is not a great climb for a fledgling 5.10 climber, particula... more >>


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