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Member Since: Mar 3, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2012
Contact Josh Beck


Point Rank: # 1,205
Total Points: 508
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Beck been climbing?










Contributions


All 229 | Routes 21 | Areas 9 | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 93 | Posts | Stars 59 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Monaco (5.11b)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 28, 2004

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Comments: I agree this route is on the harder side of 5.11b for me. Fun though and one of the better routes I've done in Indian Cove as well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Planet X Area : Love Nest Area : ... : Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 22, 2004

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Comments: The start of this otherwise excellent route has broken. It will still go but looks much more difficult with a clear boulder problem at the bottom. Possible to traverse in from Shakin' Like Milk but it's a solo if you aren't on TR and the first moves aren't protected probably even on TR. I tried starting directly for a few minutes but with a high shallow tips undercling and nothing else, it will be very challenging to get both feet established to make the first reach.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Planet X Area : Love Nest Area : ... : Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 22, 2004

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Comments: Quite a fun route. The first bolt makes it look like there is a direct start - much more difficult this way, climb in from the right on big holds. Definitely a worthy route but not quite as good as something like Jane's Addiction or Bebop Tango.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - West Face : Illusion Dweller (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 8, 2004

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Comments: I agree that Rollerball is much harder than Illusion Dweller. I also think that Rollerball is harder than Clean and Jerk, but YMMV...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : A Woman's Work is Never Don... (5.10c)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 5, 2004

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Comments: I thought this was a very nice, unique route played out on pretty good quality rock. 3 stars of 5 and very recommendable...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerball (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 5, 2004

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Comments: Indeed a great route. Maybe I was having a bad day but for me this route was harder than Clean and Jerk - perhaps comparable to Bearded Cabbage in overall difficulty?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollercoaster (5.11b)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 5, 2004

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Comments: I found the slabby liebacking to be quite interesting, I was constantly a twisted mess of arms, legs and rope on this one. The finish is spectacular, this is a very nice route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Left Mel Crack (5.10b)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 5, 2004

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Comments: Like it's neighbor, excellent rock, excellent gear and fun climbing. If only it were longer.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Right Mel Crack (5.10c)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 5, 2004

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Comments: Great climbing - would get more stars if it were longer. Excellent rock, excellent protection, fun climbing, I've done this and it's neighbor several times.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Super Creeps Wall : Waltzing Worm (5.12a)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 5, 2004

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Comments: Pretty fun route, bring lots of thin gear. The only place I got fingers was in a couple of mini-pods / scars at the start, more like seam climbing for me. One of the cruxes for me was protecting the opening sequence pulling the mini-roof, as the obvious gear placement to keep you off the deck for the cruxy moves ahead had my fingers in it...

3 stars out of 5 maybe?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Apartheid (5.12a)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 5, 2004

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Comments: I dunno... I'm normally a person who gives a lot of credit to a lot of routes and I enjoy almost every route I do or don't do. To me saying that this is as good as Bikini Whale (3 stars per the site) and better than Satanic or Father Figure (2 stars each per the site - wtf?) is way out of whack. Satanic and Father Figure are two of the best routes I've been on in Jtree of any variety, 4-5 stars of 5, in my eyes anyways. Even after I figured out some beta on Apartheid I didn't care to go up it ag... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Apartheid (5.12a)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 4, 2004

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Comments: I'll admit that I sketched out of commiting to the move to the 2nd bolt - didn't like the look of the fall at ALL and I was kind of glad I did, as when I then rigged it with a TR to at least play on it some, my first try going right was less than wholy successful :)

There are some fantastic sport routes around this difficulty level in jtree that deserve stars, traffic, fame, etc, so I was pretty let down by this one I guess.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - E... : Apartheid (5.12a)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 4, 2004

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Comments: I disagree with some other folks here - you could hit the dihedral quite hard if you don't get to the second bolt, it's not particularly steep. It's also not very long or, in my opinion, a terribly great route. 3 out of 3 is way overrated, I'd give it at most 2 of 5...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Yaak Crack (5.11d)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 2, 2004

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Comments: More fun than I was expecting and a lot easier as well. Technically I guess it finishes at the anchors to the right of the crack as the anchors to the left are for Minstrel...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Exorcist (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Sep 14, 2004

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Comments: I agree the face is the crux. Excellent rock and excellent route, but not terribly long or sustained...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Satanic Mechanic (5.12a/b)
By: Josh Beck When: Jul 6, 2004

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Comments: This a fantastic, route, very steep and athletic by jtree standards. Of course it can be led, it's a sport route! Definitely cruxy, and while it may not be harder than every jtree 12a, I feel 12b is a more fair rating.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pente (5.11-)
By: Josh Beck When: May 1, 2004

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Comments: Probably 160-165', a 70 would miss by a mile, bring 2 ropes. Excellent to the first ledge, a bit tedious and a bit of rope drag above. As others said, good to have a couple .5-.75 (Camalot) size pieces for the top.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: Josh Beck When: May 1, 2004

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Comments: Awesome route. Hard 5.11. No move on the the route harder than 5.10+, the business is probably endurance / tenacity through the .5-.75 terrain.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Caveman (V6)
By: Josh Beck When: Feb 5, 2004

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Comments: It's my understanding that going lower at the start and not using the hidden jug is the classic / FA line? Seems a good bit harder than V6 via that route. The iron cross isn't terribly hard if you're, say, 5'8" or taller because you get much better feet. The business is definitely getting under the constriction w/o the hidden jug and then holding on to finish. I agree not using the hidden hold is more aesthetic, btw.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Hercules (5.11c)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 11, 2004

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Comments: IMO this deserves 1 or 2 stars of 5. It's fairly short and the upper part of the crack is very crufty (a piece of mine rolled over and blew out as the cruft and crystals in the upper crack crumbled away. The climbing is challenging and insecure off fingers and liebacking in a flare that is quite awkward and not very inspiring. It is however fairly unique and the challenges it presents are kinda cool but I doubt I'll ever go back for a redpoint. Protects mostly with gear in the .5-1" range, I did... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Absolute Zero (5.10c)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 9, 2004

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Comments: Definitely much easier than the similar move on The Vampire and nothing like Hot Rocks. 1 star of 5 at best though. Not a complete bomb but neither very memorable or recommendable IMO.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 9, 2004

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Comments: Typical jtree climb in that there are bolts where there need to be and no extras. Be careful getting to the first bolt and then the second, although easy climbing, takes you well into groundfall range. After that it's just keeping calm for another 60' of excellent delicate climbing to a fun steep topout. Gear on top is nuts, cams to 2" and looped flakes, your choice. Rap off bolted anchor to climbers left. Probably not a good first 10b and it'll get your attention but not too bad really.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Hot Rocks (5.11b)
By: Josh Beck When: Jan 8, 2004

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Comments: If you're taller the crux is certainly easier. I don't know off the top of my head how tall Randy or John are. On a gear note, it's easy to put gear where you need to put your feet on this route.

One of the best routes I've done in the park, ranks w/ O'Kelley Crack, Left Ski Track, Illusion Dweller, Clean and Jerk and the like for me.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) (5.10a)
By: Josh Beck When: Nov 23, 2003

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Comments: Done too long ago to recall the particulars of difficulty but I hardly thought this was a decent route. Not a chosspile or anything, but not one I'd repeat.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Invisibility Lessons (5.9)
By: Josh Beck When: Sep 29, 2003

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Comments: The crux of this climb is actually the left leaning tight hands. Best to place a piece high then pull into it and make a few moves to get to better hands before the next piece goes in. Then eases off to the top. Not hugely sustained but no gimme. Excellent either way, along with Touch and Go probably the best two < 5.10 cracks in the park in my opinion.


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