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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : The Lizard's Mouth : Sunset Boulevard : Call Me (V4)
By: Joseph Stover When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a bit sad to learn that it was chipped, but it is an excellent problem. It would be extremely more difficult without the good edge.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : The Playground : Little Lebowski Urban Achie... : Logjammin (5.11b)
By: Joseph Stover When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got shut down on the crux today. thin slopers indeed.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Marching Munchk... : The Wicked Witch (5.12-)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux took me about 20 tries at least to just figure out a possible sequence. After that, the redpoint only took about 4 tries. I love beautiful, short, and hard sequences that lead to big holds.
The secret for me was finding the perfect right foot hold for going to the sharp pocket. There is a tiny horizontal bit on the lower part of the prow like bulge that has the right hand sidepull on it.
Man I miss AZ... Lemmon rocks...
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Prison Overcrowding (5.11a/b)
By: Joseph Stover When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like this route. It was one of my first 5.11 projects on the Lemmon. It hold a special place in my heart.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: Joseph Stover When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kind of funny how everyone learned it differently. For me it was: "Red on yellow, kills a fellow, red on black is a friend of jack."
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Georges Peach (5.9)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: *The bolt studs in the cold shut anchors wiggled today. I really don't know why anyone would invest in modern bolts on a climb and then put funky anchors. Why not just put in stainless anchor studs and hangers as well? I just hate cold shuts, what can I say...
I have to admit that the route felt contrived. It had some fun moves, but I just didn't understand the bolt placements. Seems like the direct start would be the crux unless it is supposed to go directly over the roof to the chains ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Marching Munchk... : The Wicked Witch (5.12-)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: But no bumper sticker??? ...or are those only for the platinum elite members? ;)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt behind the obituary column is loose(the stud wiggles quite a bit). Maybe not too big a deal since it is such a nice spot and maybe a few things can be slung. I don't think it will pull too easily yet.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Bender-Axen (5.8)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That slab is harder than the start on Chiboni. the easy way is to do the running start!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Marching Munchk... : The Wicked Witch (5.12-)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am curious if anyone has done this route. I hate to be a number chaser, but I'd like to see if people really think it is 12a. Such a short crux. Don't hesitate to hurt my ego, I'd still be happy with 11d, don't see how it could possibly be any easier than that. I am just gonna go ahead and call it my first 12a redpoint.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Cave : Spider Grind (5.11)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't the guidebook call this one 11b? I haven't climbed it, so I don't know how it feels.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure this is the Sonoran Mountain Kingsnake(non-venomous); they supposedly have this distinctive white snout. The Coral snake seems to have a much more distinct striping pattern.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Punch and Judy Towers : Power Hungry (5.11+)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is excellent. Getting to the bolt above the shelf can be scary and is not trivial, maybe 5.9 move, but you get to clip from a very nice flake.
The webbing up top seemed to be in decent condition. Don't hesitate to bring up an extra bit or extra biner to back it up. But all anchors scare me...
60M rope barely makes it from the first pitch anchor. Be sure to tie knots when lowering.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Marching Munchk... : Ruby Slippers (5.11a/b)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route has an 11a sequence that I did not figure out. Somehow you can go left at the start rather than going right or something like that. Took me forever to get it going right.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock
By: Joseph Stover When: Mar 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a nice New Balance shoe in the wash. Brand new, couldn't find the other one. If it's yours, PM me and I'll get it to you.
Also: watch out for kids(campers, etc...) playing around the top of the cliffs. Saw some uninformed youngsters tumble a huge death block down by the entrance to the canyon. It didn't come too close to the base of the Dragon's Back route, but never-the-less is a scary hazard.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Warden (5.7 R)
By: Joseph Stover When: Mar 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a chain and cold shut lying on the slab at the base of this route on 3/8/2008. Not sure from what.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Parole (5.10+)
By: Joseph Stover When: Mar 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt at the lip of the roof is missing a hanger as of 3/8/2008.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Photo
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Speechless....
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Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Gus Fruh : Guide's Wall : Touch of Class (5.7)
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first technical rock climbing experience ever was this route! Well worth it!
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Location: AZ : Gate's Pass : Main Upper Prow Jug to Left (V4)
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stuff on this prow can be wet and greasy after a good rain. Lots of different variations to this prow.
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Location: AZ : Gate's Pass : No Feet Traverse (V5)
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this thing once a long time ago, but have yet to repeat it. I think the crux is making the move from the last big jug where mantling is an option into the dihedral on the right. Just too pumped out... maybe next time...
Edit: I think what I am talking about is doing the traverse and then going into what is called "the right dihedral" on this site. Maybe it's only V3, but it has a learning curve.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
By: Joseph Stover When: Jan 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very impressive when coming around the last bend on the hike in... Great find! The hike is hard, but fun and adventurous with some great scenery! I can't wait to sample some of the steeper routes next time!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Sweetie Don't Bite (5.11-)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jan 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its funny that toproping this seemed easier than leading Virgin's Airline, but that was the first route of the day and not my style of stuff. But both are awesome! If you do decide to toprope this be aware that there are some sharp horizontal edges up top and a pendulum might result in some nasty rope wear.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Aretes Syndrome (5.11+)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jan 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the route left of blood book with the bolt in the separated block? Maybe that thing is big enough that no human fall force could budge it... What is the size limit on putting a bolt in things like this, or am I wrong, is it not actually separated? Just seemed unsafe to me.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin (Hairpin rock) : Early Brews (5.9)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jan 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: These two routes are kinda funny, its almost like one route with two bolt lines! The start is definitely the cruxes, both routes(at least to the first set of anchors) seemed about the same rating, maybe 5.9/10a because of the start, other than that like 5.8. Many hollow sounding holds. The rock was a bit dirty in spots, but not too bad. The climbing is actually pretty fun easy moves except for the need to beware about how solid the holds are. I was kind of perplexed by the bolt next to the rap a... more >>
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