Point Rank: # 1,882
Total Points: 90
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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| Routes are worth 10 |
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 Where has Joseph Proulx been climbing?
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Contributions
| All (45) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (10) | Comments (20) | Posts | Stars (10) | Ratings (3) | | Page 1 of 2. 1 2 Next> |
Contributed Photos |
| Photo |
Caption |
Location |
Great Image |
Date |
| Dragon's Tooth and Dragon's Tail Couloirs above Emerald Lake, June 2003 | CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Dragon's Tail Couloir (WI2 M2) | | Nov 22, 2004 |
| Meriah Meloche belaying. In the bottom of the photo is the stick we got from down by the river for the clip. March 2003. | UT : Moab Area : ... : Bandito Route (C1) | | Nov 17, 2004 |
| What the hell am I supposed to do here???(photo - Kathleen Skinner, March '02) | UT : Moab Area : ... : Bandito Route (C1) | | Nov 17, 2004 |
| Meriah Meloche belaying. Brit Hyland waiting for the rock to start moving. March 2003. | UT : Moab Area : ... : Bandito Route (C1) | | Nov 17, 2004 |
| The entire route from near the summit, July 2003. K2 is the peak to the right, Daly is behind to the left. You can make out the knife edge just in front of K2, as well as the overhanging cliff that fo | CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Northeast Ridge (Knife-Edge... | | Nov 16, 2004 |
| A little ways up P1, October 2003. | UT : Moab Area : ... : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10) | | Nov 16, 2004 |
| William following P1 of Vision Quest, just past the beautiful dihedral. | UT : Moab Area : ... : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13) | | Nov 16, 2004 |
| Rapping off superman-style at dusk, October 2003. | UT : Moab Area : ... : Tonka Tower (5.8 A0) | | Nov 16, 2004 |
| looking down from the summit, Oct. 2003 | UT : Moab Area : ... : Owl Rock (west crack) (5.8+) | | Nov 16, 2004 |
| Andy Hahn crossing the knife edge above Dead Dog Couloir in July 2003. | CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Kelso Ridge | | Jan 23, 2004 |
Contributed Comments | | |
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : Skywalker Couloir By: Joseph Proulx When: Jun 21, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: Leia's in fine shape (as of 6/16/2005) as long as you stick to the left. There's better snow and protection from the disintigrating cornice which is invisible from below. I saw some folks get hit by ice (no injuries) because they were too far to the right.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Mexican Hat : Bandito Route (C1) By: Joseph Proulx When: Nov 17, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Class 3 A0. Maybe the only one in the world of the grade. Does that make it 3 stars?
Don't have the second reclimb it - just leave the etrier on the SECOND bolt so the second can get the weight off the first bolt. Note the angle of the quickdraw in my photo. I had to just haul on the draw to unclip the rope, and then (after some swinging) grab the bolt to unclip the qd. That sucked.
I led this route the next year (last March; 2004) and left the etrier on bolt 2, and the second (Chris... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over and Out (5.8) By: Joseph Proulx When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: The dihedral left of P2 of OtH is a stellar pitch. I get the feeling it's underrated because of its proximity to the OtH finger crack. If leading Eldo 5.9s is a bit beyong you (as for me), then be sure to continue on up this pitch. It is either blemished or enhanced by a slightly spooky bit near the end above a small roof, where the crack become more of a seam. Almost the entire route is good fun climbing on really solid rock with great views.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+) By: Joseph Proulx When: Oct 26, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: No consensus? Well, then I'll cast my vote. I'm glad the bolts are gone, though it doesn't make up for them being there in the first place. After all, the holes remain, no matter how anyone tries to camouflage them. I was annoyed when I saw them last spring. I don't think I even clipped them because they are in a lousy location - they'd just have added drag for belaying up my partner.
This route has everything you could want in a moderate trad climb -- great position, fun moves, solid rock, bea... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+) By: Joseph Proulx When: Jun 25, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Gumbies beware: Pitch 2 (assuming 3 pitches) is really run-out 5.6.
I tried the old "I'll lead the easy pitch" routine, and got scared walking up the easy 5.6 after flailing up the P1 dihedral on TR. Perhaps I was off route, but I went left on the face as noted in this description and shown in Rossiter's photo. I got in a #1 Trango cam (1-1.5cm) about 30'+ above my first placement, which was right off the belay. It felt similar to the First Flatiron P1 run-out.
Regardless, a good fun cli... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a) By: Joseph Proulx When: Jun 16, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: I didn't think it was harder than 5.9, but I wasn't on lead. My partner didn't think it was harder than 5.9 either.
Just a note: You should place some gear in the crack above the third bolt, even if the climbing to the next bolt is easy. If you don't place any gear, a fall by the second from the crux (at the third bolt) will result in a swing over the arete. This probably wouldn't be dangerous, but it would suck. You might have to lower down to get back on route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+) By: Joseph Proulx When: Jun 11, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: I belayed a beginner leader on this yesterday (not his first lead, but close). He did the whole route in one pitch on a 60m rope, taking the easy version of pitch 3. He avoided rope drag by putting a piece off to the right where the route heads left up the slot.
Actually, Will just didn't know where he was supposed to belay, and kept going up to a few feet below the top. I made him come back down so I could lead the 5.7+ pitch 3. Not having a sufficently large cam made it feel a lot harder than... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7) By: Joseph Proulx When: Jun 1, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Good route for a beginner leader - I belayed a friend of mine on his second trad lead. There is good gear at the (early) crux on each pitch, and practically no danger of falling after that.
Watch for falling ropes: Ropes thrown from the rap anchors will fall where you want to belay for the second pitch.
The tree just up and right of the big detached block has fallen down into the line of the route on pitch 1, making it a bit unpleasant.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8) By: Joseph Proulx When: Jun 1, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Pitch 1 is quite fun. The start seems easier than 5.8 to me; the face above it seems hard for a 5.6. Pitch 2 has some pretty good climbing, but a lot of scrambing. I didn't do the third pitch. It's possible my impression of the route was diminished by the wind on Sunday.
I left behind a nut on pitch 2. I was too lazy to sling the fixed tricam near it, and I thought the placement would come out with no trouble. I suppose could have gotten wedged as the rock cooled (or the nut warmed?) ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+) By: Joseph Proulx When: May 21, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: You can protect the opening moves with a small cam (1-1.5cm). I had my belayer hand it up to me after I got another piece in.
Did anyone else find pitch 3 ambiguous? I've done it twice, the "wrong way" both times. The first time I headed left. It couldn't have been more than 5.7, considering it did it at night with a headlamp (we were delayed by my diabetic partner's hypoglycemia). The second time (yesterday) I headed right because I'd used the cams that would have protected the crux. It felt a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R) By: Joseph Proulx When: May 10, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: I finally climbed this last Friday. The climbing, position, and views are all fantastic. I did seven long roped pitches including some simul climbing. It never got tedious. I belayed off to the right at the top of pitch three because I saw a nice ledge (with a tree - see the beta photo) and wasn't too worried about keeping on route. Pitch 4 went up the arete leading up and left to the big ledge. This was easy and licheny, but lots of fun and it had great position.
I found all of the belays rath... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge By: Joseph Proulx When: Dec 11, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: Calling this route 4th class is a disservice to people who don't do much or any technical climbing, but like a good scramble. The only part which may be 4th class -- the little arete just below the knife edge -- is short, solid, and avoidable (albeit, as I recall, by traversing a rotten gully to the right -- hey, that's Colorado). This is a great route with nice position, easy trail access, and low commitment factor.
I thought the crux was getting my Ford Tempo up the road.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Northeast Ridge (Knife-Edge... By: Joseph Proulx When: Dec 9, 2003 | view comment >> | Comments: I did this route alone last July. Here's my take:
Approach: Roach's approach description for Cap. Cr. trailhead is very accurate. The Capitol Creek trail is excellent. I hiked out on the alternate trail (contouring along the west slope of the valley) and found it tiresome. It's perhaps more scenic and avoids the 500' rise to get to the trailhead; but it's also longer, has ups and downs, and the portion near the trailhead is rather muddy and ugly.
Getting to K2: The trail from Capitol... more >>
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