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Member Since: Dec 8, 2005
Last Visit: May 9, 2014
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Point Rank: # 728
Total Points: 880
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joseph Stover been climbing?










Contributions


All 899 | Routes 48 | Areas 10 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 165 | Posts 320 | Stars 183 | Ratings 156
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : Middle Earth
By: Joseph Stover When: May 14, 2007

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Comments: There are several(at least 2) bolts missing hangers left of "The Breeze". I think the route left of the breeze has all of its hard ware but the two left of that are missing some stuff. Maybe more, I am not sure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Breeze (5.11c)
By: Joseph Stover When: May 13, 2007

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Comments: Someone was nice enough to leave two nice biners at the top, making it easy to go up and down without having to untie.

This is a pure and simple steep jug haul. My type of climb! I didn't lead it but it will be a fun lead next time! Top rope it through the biners so that if you pop off you gotta start over:)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Sun Spot Crags
By: Joseph Stover When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: I was confused by the topo.. So Angus kong is a trad route between the two 12's on what is called the "brown dwarf"?

Going left on the crag:
-Brighter side of Darkness 12- sport, furthest right route on brown dwarf
-Angus Kong, 10- trad
-Hebrew Hammer, 12- sport
-Tree
-big gulley with Sun Baked, 10+ sport
-then you get to the red dwarf,
-and then continue on up the trail to Ra's Arete and beyond.

I was confused because the topo listed Angus Kong as a Bolted route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Filet Of Sol (5.10+)
By: Joseph Stover When: May 6, 2007

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Comments: This route kind of reminded me of myopic since it was mostly easier climbing(~mid grade 10) but with a difficult(~10+) crux just before pulling the ledge.

I didn't like that huge rounded flake at the top, I used it a bit anyway. It just seems like it may blow sometime.

My first 10+ onsight!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Prison Overcrowding (5.11a/b)
By: Joseph Stover When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: One of the first three bolts was a little loose, I think it was the first... just the nut I mean. I tightened it by hand, maybe could use a good twist with a wrench. I'll bring one out next weekend just in case no one gets to it before me.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Armed Robbery (5.11)
By: Joseph Stover When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: nut on 1st bolt was about a full turn away from coming off yesterday. I don't think the bolt itself was loose. It still held a "fall". I tightened it by hand but didn't have a wrench.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Deranged Of Late (5.9)
By: Joseph Stover When: Apr 8, 2007

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Comments: If you like no friction, no holds, bulging slab, then you will love this route!

There is runout above the 3rd bolt (maybe 2nd, can't remember). It is easy ground, but there are no holds and the rock is pretty smooth. It does end at the only hold on the route though!

I couldn't figure out the finish. I did it direct on toprope, but the leader went far right. I think it is supposed to go quite a bit left above the last bolt.

I actually thought Space Cowboy was easier because it had holds.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Jailhouse Rock
By: Joseph Stover When: Apr 2, 2007

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Comments: Any word on the route name and rating corrections?

I climbed "Mug Shot" today, the one starting in the dish. Even coming in from the boulder on the left is a bit sandbagged at 8+ if you ask me. I would call that at least 9- and the direct start 10a or even 10b or harder, but what do I know. I thought it was a fun route. After the start it is a reasonable 8.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Silverbell Boulders : Lower Boulders : Hole Left (V1)
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 17, 2007

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Comments: I thought both hole problems were fun, the left variation being much, much more difficult than the right; assuming I was doing them 'correctly'. I hate to beat ratings to death because the important thing is how fun the moves are, but I thing ratings can definitely be a good thing, or at least interesting to see how different people rate things differently.

I would call hole left V2-3(about 11b in my mind) and hole right V1-2(about 10b/c).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang : Se Camina Espanol (5.9+)
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 12, 2007

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Comments: I was super scared on this route, as it was my first outdoor climb since October due to finger injury(damn tendons!). Plus it was slightly cold and really windy. And the rock felt so weird, since I have never been on this stuff before

I thought this was a little easy for 9+, mostly because of the great friction. On Lemmon it would have been rated 8+ probably, but I think 9 is pretty fair just because of some 'technical/thin' moves(for 5.8/9). For some reason this reminds me of Clip Clip Here/Th... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang : Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Ho... (5.10)
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 12, 2007

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Comments: I liked this route, 10 seemed a fair rating, mostly because of the slight traverse(if I was on route) near the middle section and some thin moves. If the rock had any less friction it would be very difficult. I went right near the block below the chains since I didn't know where he route went, going straight over the block seemed like it would have been much more difficult. What is the original intention for that ending?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang
By: Joseph Stover When: Feb 12, 2007

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Comments: This place is awesome. It was a shock to see this 'limestone' for me because I am used to Austin, TX limestone. If you want to know what that looks like. Find one of those white blotches on the ground that looks like cement, there are a few around this crag. I am really curious on what qualifies something as limestone. Maybe the stuff in Texas just has a higher lime content and this stuff has more quantities of various other minerals? The Mustang has more friction than granite it seems to me!

T... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Slide Rock State Park : The Center of Singularity (5.13b) : Photo
By: Joseph Stover When: Nov 10, 2006

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Comments: Wow!!! If only it was 2 number grades easier! That looks like an incredible place. I can't wait to climb some of that red stuff.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lost and Undecided (5.7)
By: Joseph Stover When: Oct 29, 2006

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Comments: I left a Metolius Curve Nut #1 fixed above halfway up this route, couldn't clean it out and it was getting dark, so didn't have time to mess with it.

I climbed the route again today hoping to find it, but it seems that someone else may have gotten it. I also found two carabiners on the chains of the 5.9 in the dihedral. I am hoping that the owner of the biners has my nut and would be willing to exchange.

---
I still can't figure out exactly how this route is supposed to go, there seem to... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Jailhouse Rock
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 11, 2006

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Comments: Where are hoosgal, machinegun, scarface and solitary with respect to the climbs drawn on the nice looking topo above in this post?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Talk Me Out Of It (5.9)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 11, 2006

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Comments: The start is not too hard, just real balancy, and it may be the crux. It is a pretty reasonable 5.9. I think a solid 8 leader could handle it. Mostly a jug haul unlike the 5.8 to its left which has a few more techinical moves on smaller holds.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : I'd Turn Back If I Were You (5.8)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 11, 2006

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Comments: This was a fun route. I though it was harder than Talk me out of it, or maybe just scarier. Definitely exposed with a great view at the top. I thought there were two cruxes, one when you are standing on the obvious big horn about halfway up and the other harder crux pulling over the last bolt to get the chains.

8 bolts + chain and rap anchor(slightly spinning, probably due to rock crumble as the bolt and nut seem plenty tight.)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Tree Wing Circus (5.9+)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 5, 2006

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Comments: I thought this was a pretty fun route, but I too would hate to see anyone chop this tree down because of it. Its one of the biggest ones near the crag! Please save the tree!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High...
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 28, 2006

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Comments: Just to reiterate in case anyone has any doubts: Watch out for snakes!(and other things that can be dangerous also)

About two weeks ago I was out at Hairpin looking at the new landscape. It was sundown, when activity is higher I think. I came pretty close to stepping on a rattlesnake on the left side(facing the road) on my way out towards the tunnels under the road(I never noticed those before). It was about 3 feet long and about a 1.5 inch diameter, I think it was a female because it was reall... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : The Druid
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 27, 2006

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Comments: Is there a new(unlisted) route between Grip(e)s and In Lightning?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Admiral Throckmorton (5.8)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 27, 2006

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Comments: That roof move is solid 5.9, no doubt to me. Beware 5.8 leaders! The runout is definitely over easy ground with a nice hold to clip from, but beware! It is very similar to a 5.9 is Austin Greenbelt on Seismic wall called "Overeasy", except that Overeasy has some very interesting moves after its roof. Fun route though. mostly easy for a 'Mt Lemmon 5.8' except for the 5.9 roof.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tucson Area Bouldering : Gate's Pass : No Feet Traverse (V5)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 17, 2006

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Comments: I figured it was overrated, but I just put the guidebook rating anyway. Maybe I was reading it wrong. It's still a fun problem though.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Lollipop Guild (5.10c)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 25, 2006

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Comments: I forgot to bring a wrench today so the 4th bolt may still be loose. I won't get a chance to go back for at least a month or so, so if someone plans to climb this route, please try to tighten the bolt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Lollipop Guild (5.10c)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 18, 2006

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Comments: The fourth bolt was really loose today. I could have easily turned it a few times and pulled off the anchor. It still held a good fall just fine. I tightened it by hand and may be out there again with a wrench next weekend. How tight should I get it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Just Do It (5.11a)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jun 5, 2006

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Comments: Awesome route, interesting moves. Definitely worth the scramble down the slurry!


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