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Member Since: Dec 8, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Joseph Stover


Point Rank: # 733
Total Points: 881
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joseph Stover been climbing?










Contributions


All 902 | Routes 48 | Areas 10 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 320 | Stars 184 | Ratings 157
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AR : Jamestown Crag : Amateur Route Area : Spread Your Eagle (5.10c R)
By: Joseph Stover When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I thought the bottom wasn't too dirty (at king of crag a few weeks ago), but I might be judging by lower standards. I really enjoyed the middle section, going up the dihedral and moving left under the roof.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: Not sure how the 4x4 road is, but it looked possible to drive in a ways and camp closer to the central area - there was a small camper parked about halfway between parking lot and central area. Getting to Parking Lot Rock is fine for any vehicle probably. Polique Canyon Road approach was easy and smooth. It was hot, but compfy in the shade and cold at night. Neat area.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Lady Luck (5.9)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: hm... the route was short, but I don't remember the rock being bad quality, the bolts seemed solid and reasonably placed, the climb was maybe not too sustained, but there was a distinct crux. I enjoyed it, just a typical, average run of the mill sport route.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : High Plains Drifter (5.9)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: The slab is pretty tough, and the first couple of moves in the crack are stout, and the rock is a bit gritty, maybe 5.9, but felt hard for me, however I'm not a great crack climber. And I might have stuffed the best holds full of gear. It's basically 1-2 hard moves to get established next to the crack, then its moderate face climbing from there.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Dan's Problem (V3)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jan 7, 2012

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Comments: Starting in the toothy pocket and going right then up and slightly left on the face is a great moderate climb (maybe V1 or so?). Don't know if it's already listed here.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Wilted Flower Children (5.8)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: A red sewn sling up top was placed 1/1/2012 (by the party next to us), the older tied cord and two biners looked to still be in decent shape as well. You should see the anchor hanging over the edge of the rock; the configuration is two bolts plus two slings and two biners.

This route is good, worth doing. The lower section is fairly easy and can be sandy, but has some fun movement. The upper hand crack is a bit short but pretty tough and a worthwhile endeavor. I thought it was harder ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Matters Little (V0)
By: Joseph Stover When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: I thought this was Matters Not, and Matters Little is the knobby face around the corner to the right, and just a touch further right is the arete Seasonal Interlude. However... I guess it matters not...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : New Ways to get from A to B (V2)
By: Joseph Stover When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: This problem is probably very height dependent. A short person may have a lot of trouble reaching up the seem at the top to gain some grip. Great fun and unique movements. It's cool to get on something that is not the typical jug or crimp fest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Joseph Stover When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: Angels in a Cage V2 is the right arete, New Way to get from A to B is the line up the scoop just right of the tree on the left boulder.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: Joseph Stover When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: Stand start is a stretch? Where is the V4 stand start? On the sidepull and juggy crimp about 7ft up? And the V6 sit start is on the tiny crimps about waste height? What about the "middle way" stand start on the chest high left sidepull/crimp and either right undercling/sidepull crimp or further right sidepull. That seemed on the hard side of V4, but probably good. I can't wait to go back to it, I think I have good beta for the "mahayana start"...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Ace in the Hole (V2)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 27, 2011

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Comments: I think this problem is harder than "Faded, Fat, Greedy Woman". Maybe the latter has a bit more thin technical crux, but the exit on this one is burly and painful.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : South Street (V4)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: I wouldn't really call it a sit start, as the sloper/dish/hole is a bit too high off the ground. However, I found two starts: 1. right hand on flat lower part of hole, left hand gaston on side of hole and lurch up to the next hold, or 2. switch the hands up and lie back to the left, use some low slippery feet and go up a bit more static to the next hold. I thought the 2nd way was a bit more aesthetic and a tad more difficult.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : The Playground : Little Lebowski Urban Achie... : The Chinaman (5.11b)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 10, 2011

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Comments: the climbing leading to the dustbowl is fun and harder than it looks, then the best part begins. Some strong cranking leads to a spicey topout. The last clip is difficult, however immaculately clean fall potential exists. Walkoff is far climbers right, downclimb an arete.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Old Soft Hsu (V3)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Probably one of the scarier topouts on the boulder... after making the final crux move, it is still a bit tricky to actually gain the top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Big Traffic (V4)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: The first time I made it to the top, it was as described above, going to the biggest high hold on Heavy Traffic, and then traversing directly right onto the Big Traffic crimps (but I was too scared to commit to the top out, so I bailed). I think it is slightly harder and more aesthetic to skip the upper big hold though.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Heavy Traffic (V3)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: I find it easier to start with right hand in lower pocket at chest height, and left hand on the chest height crimp out left, rather than a hands above the head start... it feels smoother moving into the higher holds rather than a strong overhand crank to begin with. It makes the footwork smoother I think. I was scared for a long time about the fall from a failed topout. This boulder is a good one to learn how to fall on, as it is actually not a bad fall if you have a good pad (or 2) and a spotte... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Ending Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Joseph Stover When: Sep 4, 2011

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Comments: The second pitch (~5.7 maybe +) is definitely harder and headier than the first (~5.6). My partner said the second pitch of ending crack felt more like the first pitch on tree route. Beautiful multi-pitch climb, as both pitches are long. Definitely a must do, and a must repeat.

On P2: I thought there was only about a 10-20 ft section where the pro was really not great. Overall the pro was a bit trickier as well, several spots where you just plug n go possibly mental pro. About 25 ft below the e... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : A Steve Edwards Project (V5)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Those starting crimps are feeling awefully thin as of late...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Sasquatch (V5)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 24, 2011

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Comments: V4 if you start on yeti holds and go to the next big pocket on the left then up the Sasquatch slopers? I knew I must have missed something...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Charlotte's Web (V3)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 24, 2011

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Comments: I heard that the line used to be a bit more direct on the right side rather than starting on the left sidepull, but then a hold broke so the start moved to the left. It can still be done starting from the high crimps and moving straight up. Maybe a bit harder (V4? CW gets V4 in Edwards guide), but a fun variation nonetheless.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Static Eliminator (V4)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: Right hand on the high crimp about in the middle of the rail, left hand in the tiny shallow pocket just a bit lower and to the left of the crimp, pull up and put your right foot on the large lower rail, then crank upwards. I would believe V4 for that. Starting with right hand on sidepull and left hand on the crimp seems to be much much harder. Precision is needed in the small pockets. The topout is not hard, all the holds are there, but it takes commitment.

This problem is quality because it's... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Eight Crack (5.8 R)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: Good route, as long as you are comfortable at runout 5.8, so definitely not for a novice 5.8 leader. Has anyone ever fallen at the crux and still declared that it doesn't get an R?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Roll the Dice (5.11a)
By: Joseph Stover When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: A 3 ft long hard crux just above the 2nd bolt that is no harder than 11a, no easier than 10c. The rest of the climb is in the realm of 10a and really fun.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.10a)
By: Joseph Stover When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I think this is the route that starts to the left of the grey-ish face of friable flakes. In the photo on this site, it is left of Chemical Warfare, correct me if I'm wrong. The route goes up and bit and curves/angles right for a couple bolts, avoiding the bad grey face, then turns back upward to a chain anchor. I felt the bolts were not too far apart, but a blown clip would spell disaster probably.

I thought this route was a little more technical than chemical warfare, but the latter was a li... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Joseph Stover When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: The friction on this route was amazing yesterday. Maybe a slightly cool, damp day aids the stickiness... Even though the holds are few, there are many different variations that exist. Foot placement and balance is key.

I think going slightly right of the piton without moving too far left is standard, but I found going nearly directly above the piton to be a bit less strenuous.


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