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Member Since: Apr 30, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 15,407
Total Points: 8
Last Year: 8
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 110 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 61 | Stars 23 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love Route (5.9)
By: JonW When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I agree with those above - start this route with Better Than Love. With the BTL start, pitches 2 and 5 (both 5.8) are the best pitches of the route. After the first 3 pitches of BTL, stick to climber's right. Pitch 4 will be easy (low 5th climbing), and pitch 5 ends at a button-head bolt belay. From there, it's a full 60m to the next belay at a fixed pin backed up with gear 20m below the crux roof. I think there are 4 pins on the crux route (though I skipped one), and none inspire much confidenc... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Stettner's Ledges (5.8)
By: JonW When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The Stettner bros were total bad asses. This route must have been insane in 1927 or whenever they did.

We found this route challenging for the grade. We were bombarded by rockfall for the first 2 pitches. Sounded like gunfire whizzing by my head, which was the scariest experience of my life. The rockfall was all natural, as there was no one above us. The route moves to climber's left, which helped to alleviate the rockfall for the upper 4 pitches.

We encountered lots of wet rock, snowy ledges,... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: JonW When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: I didn't think the rock quality on this route was great. Loose in spots and covered in lichen. We did the finger crack last pitch, which was very cool and did not have a pin. However, I found the other pitches to have more difficult moves than the final pitch. The dihedral pitch was cool, but I wasn't quite sure where to go after the dihedral ended. The chimney above the dihedral looked extremely challenging with a pack on, so I bailed over to the right.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: JonW When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Found this route to be very well protected with clean falls. Bolts are well placed.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Free Up The Weed (5.11a)
By: JonW When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route. The beta is wrong on the number of QDs. This route now takes 16. Some clips are quite close, but a fall in the crux dihedral would not be comfortable. I appreciated the tight bolting.

It's tempting to go right after the crux sequence, but this will leave you with a traverse to the left to reach the next bolt. Avoid the temptation to move right to the top of this arete.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Downsizing (5.9-)
By: JonW When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: I don't get the description of this route (on this page or in the guidebook). The opening moves felt like 5.8 and were not chossy (perhaps a little sandy). The crux towards the top on thin, crimpy edges felt like other 10b's in the canyon.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Venture Capital (5.11b)
By: JonW When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. Found this to be quite a bit easier than Stroh's.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Stroh's (5.11-)
By: JonW When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Found this to be pretty stiff for 11a. For me, the crux was getting to the jug just below the roof. Perhaps I was missing something, but it was a long, balancy move off a not-so-good right hand. I found this climb to be significantly harder than Venture Capital (11a) to the left of this route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Crampon recommendations for approach shoes?Climbing Gear DiscussionJonW2 days ago
re: BD Camalot Generation DifferencesClimbing Gear DiscussionJonWOct 29, 2014
re: 2014 Colorado Snow Climbing ThreadColoradoJonWMay 31, 2014
re: RMNP Alpine Routes ColoradoJonWMay 31, 2014
re: Longs Peak via Kor's Door -> Finish Kiener's Route beta questionsColoradoJonWMay 19, 2014
re: Which is the better solo?ColoradoJonWApr 25, 2014
re: Tetons Owen spalding conditions? In mid April.ColoradoJonWApr 15, 2014
re: Advice for a Destination (Beginning Climber)Beginning ClimbersJonWMar 24, 2014
re: The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions ThreadColoradoJonWMar 24, 2014
re: New (big!) gym opening in Golden - EarthtreksColoradoJonWMar 21, 2014
re: SLCDs in your carry onGeneral ClimbingJonWMar 18, 2014
re: Ice Climbing/Alpine KitIce ClimbingJonWMar 6, 2014
re: How to let down a sketchy climber friendGeneral ClimbingJonWMar 6, 2014
re: Ice Climbing/Alpine KitIce ClimbingJonWMar 6, 2014
re: New (big!) gym opening in Golden - EarthtreksColoradoJonWDec 3, 2013
re: Going commando in RMNPColoradoJonWOct 10, 2013
re: sunday morning partner--goldenColorado PartnersJonWSep 20, 2013
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