Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pinions w/ Lou


Member Since: Sep 20, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Jonathan Howland


Point Rank: # 1,129
Total Points: 556
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jonathan Howland been climbing?










Contributions


All 171 | Routes 27 | Areas 2 | Photos 47 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 4 | Stars 67 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Goode : North Buttress (5.9)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jul 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: 1. Of the topos/beta in circulation, MP is most reliable. 6 pitches w/ 60 m. rope.
2. Don't do this route with anyone above you. Even the most careful/alert climber is apt to dislodge material of size.
3. Stay alert on the traverse; the fixed pin (on the second of the two faces) marks the point at which you turn this second arete to gain the chimney and face.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Road to Cala Gonone (5.10a)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jul 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: 95 feet long, and 12 bolts, I think. 5.9 move or two.
Worthy addition -- thank you RZ or whoever did the work.
Belayer should wear a helmet, along with anyone else at the base of Wacked Scenario area.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : In the Pink (5.10c)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Nov 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: cams to red C4 do the trick. do take the little guys.
the crack just at the crux gathers dirt/sand -- scratch away to get the requisite fingers.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge
By: Jonathan Howland When: Mar 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: By Jonathan Howland
Mar 22, 2012
Anyone have info. about the new route just right of Funky Cole Patina at Penstock?

jhowland@urbanschool.org


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Eavesdropping (5.10c)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Aug 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I think the above description fair but I'd give this pitch more plaudits/stars. It's got it all -- steep off the deck, followed by a teaser section of hand-crack and roof to get you primed for the business above, and an interlude of airy bolt-protected face before said action.
This is to say, Wages which I like is quite tidy by comparison.
  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
Rack a few med. nuts and a selection of small to finger sized-cams, but the ammo you need is 2 of each size from red to b... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : 2 Feet to Hell (5.11a)
By: Jonathan Howland When: May 9, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Better than the Lewis guide indicates. Crux near 2nd bolt, but the climbing above is quite good, incl. the maligned "contrived slab" of the final 40 feet.

12 bolts over 150 feet -- not for the needy.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Rites of Spring (5.10d)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jul 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Best 5.10 route on the East Side in my view -- every pitch good, and every pitch better than its predecessor, physical and sustained. We thought each of the first three pitches was equally challenging and in the .10a/b range. A single easy stretch is the first 40 feet of P3 -- the chimney.
  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
The technical crux on P4 is protected by a pin. A yellow C3 protects the next move, and a slot at the back of the hand traverse takes a yellow alien.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Sheila (5.10a)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jul 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Re: the 6 inch piece the first commentator didn't place -- it very nicely protects the crux lieback move. Alternatively, or in addition, once you start the lieback (and well above your last gear) you can get 2" piece (gold C4) high and deep in a recessed crack behind the block your hands are on.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hardly Wallbanger (5.10c)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Apr 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: "15 draws or so"? Try 9 -- and slings or something for the substantial anchors if someone else is cleaning (esp. if your whole group is going to seige it).
One of HW's distinctive features is the bolts themselves -- huge hooks. These guys weren't messing around, rattlesnakes or no.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Feudal Beerlords (5.10)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Apr 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Lewis's guide gives this a 10d; the previous edition had it at 10c. I'll call it hard 5.10 through the first twenty feet, not .10b per this posting, and in any case v. worthy. The route protects well on all cams (v. small through 2.5 inches) + draws for the three bolts on the arete.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Power Surge (5.10b)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Oct 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: My partner and I -- veterans of many trad lines in the ORG -- both thought the bottom quite hard for 10b if quite pleasant after the first 12 feet.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Crying Time Again (5.9+)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jun 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: A Crying Time rack: one red C3, one blue TCU, one green C4 and a red or yellow C4 (for the anchor below the 5.9 knobs pitch), 6 draws, 6 slings with two biners on each.
To avoid rope drag (with a 60m rope): link P1 & P2, belaying at two bolts just below and right of the first 5.9 move; belay again on the large ledge below the 5.9 knobs pitch (anchor with Camalots) - a short 70' pitch; then 3 more pitches to the top, each belay at a two bolt anchor.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Thin Ice (5.10b)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jun 27, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: A team ahead of us was rapping from the end of P1, advertising they "heard P2 isn't that good." Pardon the hyperbolic comparison, but this is like doing the Enduro Corner and blowing off the Harding Slot (not that I have). Thin Ice is all the better for the ways the ice suddenly thickens, P2 requiring altogether different skills.
My two cents: do the route in two long pitches (so long as you're comfortable with running it out a bit on 5.8/9 handcracks -- the last sections of each pitch).
The... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jun 27, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Did WP for the second time on 6/21/08 with JP Webb and Matt Hern and was impressed with how very good and varied the climbing is -- each pitch distinctive and worthy.
Two details: on P2, after the .8+ move out of the belay and some upward traversing under a roof/corner, one gets to the "alcove." Do belay here. Running P2 and P3 together only risks a stuck rope in the obvious pinch at the bottom of said alcove. Also, it's impossible to hear your partner(s) once you're on the next big ledge (... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome
By: Jonathan Howland When: Jun 26, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Corrections and amendments to the above:
Approach: park exactly 2.8 miles past Lower Peppermint campground (not "approx. 1.5"). Voodoo Dome parking is 14 mi. from where the Lower Kern River Road leaves the Johnsondale road. The beginning of the trail to Voodoo/White Punks is readily visible -- a cairn, a footpath ascending through light chaparral. (A very wide turnout is 50 yards further on the right (East)). As advertised, it's hard to follow the trail all the way to the Dome; ma... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Controversial Insert (5.10d)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Nov 25, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Said "wudge" move protects nicely with a #3 Camalot. We thought this the crux of the pitch. C.I./Flailsafe is very worthy.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Sabado Gigante (5.8)
By: Jonathan Howland When: May 24, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Yes (to prev. comment). And if Marty's endowing SG with the status cited above isn't sufficient incentive for you, gornisht helfin (Yiddish -- for "nothing can help." Probably misspelled). I think it's a worthy route. (Have your belayer stand to the side and wear a helmet.)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Jonathan Howland When: May 10, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Taking issue with the previous remark, which disinclined (but didn't dissuade) me from attempting this route in a single day/push: I'm a (merely) competent free-climber and hadn't aided anything but a bolt ladder or two in 26 years (and still haven't). My good fortune -- an 11.5 hour ascent of the route last Sunday, 5/6/07 -- was hugely abetted by a partner who is competent-plus (places minimal pro and quickly) and fast, who led the chimney pitches and the Zig Zags, and yet: I led 6 of the 16 p... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Swamp Thing (5.9)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Apr 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: ...And -- more important -- have your belayer wear a helmet. And once the leader gets 20 feet off the deck, stand to the side (up and to the right), as the shower of pebbles and debris is more appealing from this vantage.
ST is easier and (much dirtier) than Silence/Poodles if a little more interesting to protect, but, in any case, a must-do on account of its being historic.
One of the bolts has a rap ring on it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Wiggly (5.11a)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Nov 4, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I like this route more than Goldstein does -- as it has variety, length, and position -- and recall a crux some twenty feet (two or three bolts) below the marked one.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9 R)
By: Jonathan Howland When: Sep 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: A far better route than its relative lack-of-traffic would indicate. Have seen parties stacked up at the base of Bear's R. and The Line when Scimitar was wide-open, and it doesn't head/devolve into the traffic of formerly-bushy ledge like so many other nearby E. Wall routes. "Better route": varied, relatively continuous but mostly easy climbing; interesting gear placements/problems (but more than adequate gear); some typical LL route-finding conundrums that give you mindful... more >>