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Rock Climbing Photo: Doubleissima free solo


Member Since: Apr 15, 2009
Last Visit: 15 mins ago
Contact Jon Clark

Point Rank: # 1,617
Total Points: 447
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 2
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1686 | Routes 20 | Areas | Photos 28 | Page Improvements | Comments 107 | Posts 142 | Stars 1044 | Ratings 345
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: A great route on par with Red Rocks classics like Cloud Tower, Rainbow Wall Original Route, and Epinephrine. Pitches 1,2, and 5 are real standouts. I found the climbing very sustained and overall more difficult than Cloud Tower.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Arid Piles : Arid Piles - Northwest Face : 29 Palms (5.11d)
By: Jon Clark When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: I found this to be a major sandbag at 11d. It's at least as hard if not harder than Warrior Eagle. Warrior Eagle is another classic JT stemming corner which clocks in at 12b.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Captian Hooks (5.12a)
By: Jon Clark When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: There's some great climbing on this protected by good but small gear (bring RPs). I found it stout in the grade and notably harder than White Knight.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Grey Giant Area : ... : Warrior Eagle (5.12b)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: I found that the lower crack protected with a variety of RPs and small/micro wires. I don't think I placed any #3 BD nuts. That being said, most of the pieces I placed were around that size.

This is a super rad route.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : *The Right Wall : The Bootlegger (5.11a)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 20, 2016

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Comments: This climbs much better than it looks from the ground.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : *The Right Wall : American Caesar (5.12-)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 20, 2016

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Comments: I didn't have Ballnuts, but I don't see how you could adequately protect this without RPs and/or offsets. Even with those I still had to run it from the crux to the anchor over a #2 HB offset and other RPs below that. The smallest cam I had was a black alien. Perhaps some of the smaller C3 or Metolius variants could be useful.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Central Wonderland : ... : Morality Test (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 8, 2016

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Comments: The four bolts are all original, thirty years old, and highly suspect. The first two are the award winning 1/4" bolt/Leeper hanger combo. The fourth bolt protecting the crux and subsequent runout is an SMC spinner (1/4" bolt I think). It doesn't get much more confidence inspiring than that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Voyager (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: Clint,

I recall two double rope raps to the ground on good anchors. One from the top of pitch three to the base of pitch three. One more to the ground.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Static Cling (5.11b/c)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Almost always wet from seepage, but tends to dry in the afternoon sun especially in the fall.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Expose' (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: The cold shuts are in need of replacement.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Straight Shot (5.11d)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: I find it hard to call it the best route on the wall due to it's length, but it is an awesome route with wild stemming. I also found it well protected. I don't think it's runout at all unless you consider gear at your feet runout. Very stout in the grade, pushing into 12-.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Tales from the Gripped (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: FA: Todd Swain and Elaine Mathews

An interesting route with hard an somewhat bizarre cruxes on pitch one and three (I concur with Luke's Houdini classification). Perhaps height dependent as well? I found the third pitch in particular very reachy and closer to solid 5.11.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Winter Solstice (5.11c PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: A very good route although the holds are a bit friable through the crux. Moderately desperate and pretty darn sustained from the 3rd through the fifth bolt with some decent fall potential.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Playing on the Freeway (5.12a)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: I found the first pitch to be a great steep slab/micro edging exercise. The crux leading to the anchor is desperate.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: Not sure where everyone is getting 11a from. If it is, then it's by far the hardest 11a I've climbed at the cliff. I found it much harder than Valhalla, The Man Who Fell to Earth, Etude, etc. Are people traversing left to the knob at the crux and bypassing the hardest part?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Whizz Domes : South Whizz Dome : Body and Soul (5.12b R)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Alex,

I'm not sure what you mean by "the route has yet to be led ground up..." Do you mean onsight? I can't imagine Bachar not going ground up. There is a good supertopo thread about the route that indicates that Mike Lechlinski placed the double bolts and had a role in the FA as well. Regarding the rating, I wouldn't think there have been many ascents of this route, so not too much input on the grade. I take you've been on it. Is it really 12b knobs or more like Bachar's idea of 12b? An... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Flying Squirrels (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Quite spicy, a hard onsight, and approaching R. The RP I placed eventually lifted and could certainly do so in a fall. If it did, you could hit the ground. The water bottle trick is probably a good idea.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : White Knight (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Fair enough. You know you can always add the direct start. However, I think it's harder than it is good. There is also a second pitch which you could link with the first and avoid traversing to the On the Loose anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : White Knight (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Lucas,

I'm curious as to why you find it contrived? It sure seems like an independent line to me. Yeah it shares the start with On the Loose, but after that it's not as if you can use holds on neighboring routes.

-Jon


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Jon Clark When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit of a shame as it will take some excitement out of the route. I never thought the second bolt was necessary for a safe enough free ascent.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: I think the quality of this route is overhyped. The line has great history and is visually awesome, but the climbing is just okay. Two easy boulder problems on pitch 1 surrounded by rambling climbing. The "money pitch" is a right side in blue collar 5.9 grunt. Cool moves around the roof to hiking up a ramp. Classic for the history only.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Moondance (5.11c)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Wow, what a route. Awesome climbing on flawless rock.

I was able to reach the belay with a 60m rope and my partner on the ground. He was slightly down and left Sundance's 5.7 crack.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : Chisholm Trail (5.11b/c)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: A good looking line that is marred by limited traffic. The business section could use some excavating. The rock is quite grainy as well. However, in its current state I enjoyed a four star experience on a two star route. With more traffic it could approach classic status.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Live Free or Die (5.9+)
By: Jon Clark When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: I didn't find the start to be the crux. I thought the hardest move was at 2/3's height working with a shallow jam. The climb was filthy from runoff after a recent rain.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Maestro (5.10c)
By: Jon Clark When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: I'm in agreement with both of the above comments. This route isn't G by any stretch. I also think it is significantly harder than C-Tips and notably harder than Menace to Sobriety.


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