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Member Since: Nov 5, 2007
Last Visit: Aug 19, 2014
Contact Jonas Wiklund


Point Rank: # 5,413
Total Points: 65
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jonas Wiklund been climbing?










Contributions


All 58 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvments | Comments 15 | Posts 2 | Stars 21 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

David (FA)

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (4)

Trad, 2 pitches

UT : Moab Area : ... : Technicolor Wall

Nov 12, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Steve Juhasz on You Are What You Is

Steve Juhasz on You Are What You Is

NV : Red Rock : ... : You Are What You Is (5.13b)

Dec 13, 2007

Mark Smith on "Go A Hundred"

Mark Smith on "Go A Hundred"

NV : Red Rock : ... : Go a Hundred (5.13b)

Dec 13, 2007

Unknown climber on "Mad Dog"

Unknown climber on "Mad Dog"

UT : Moab Area : ... : Mad Dog (5.11)

Dec 12, 2007

Kyle Kubes at the small roof on "Pussy Wuss Crack"

Kyle Kubes at the small roof on "Pussy Wuss Crack"

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Incisor (5.10+)

Dec 12, 2007

Kyle Kubes on Pussy Wuss crack

Kyle Kubes on Pussy Wuss crack

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Incisor (5.10+)

Dec 12, 2007

Paco on Our Piece of Real Estate

Paco on Our Piece of Real Estate

UT : Moab Area : ... : Our Piece of Real Estate (5.11a)

Dec 12, 2007

James Cherry on The Big Baby

James Cherry on The Big Baby

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Big Baby (5.11)

Dec 12, 2007

Paco on Think PINK

Paco on Think PINK

UT : Moab Area : ... : Think Pink (5.11a)

Dec 12, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Goliath (5.11)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 2, 2008

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Comments: Second pitch reaches the rim and is perhaps not freed yet. (Hard o/w... bring a buch of friend #6 and as many big bros you can find.)

Both pitches have been cleaned by Alf.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Mr Pink (5.10+)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Nov 12, 2008

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Comments: Yes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Color Me Bad (5.10+)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Nov 12, 2008

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Comments: Interesting climbing, somewhat loose close to the top. I pulled of a couple of 10-30 pounds blocks on rappel. Be careful near the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Big Baby (5.11)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Nov 8, 2008

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Comments: I agree with the guys above, two WC#6 or new camalot #6 are nice to have. The guidebook seems to have given bad presendence on giving detailed gear-beta for routes obviously not done by the author.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Dead Crow (5.11+ PG13)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Nov 8, 2008

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Comments: The route is more like 50m, but the anchor should still be moved up. The climbing above the anchor has been tried, not by me I must add, yet another 10m up to an alcove mostly camalot 5's I've been told.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 28, 2007

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Comments: Whatever Disturbing the Peace says, if you do this route without any small slcds or wires you pretty much have to solo the 5.8 pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : King Cat (5.11+)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 13, 2007

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Comments: I agree, might be the best route I've done in The Creek. Re: beta. I cannot imagine anyone getting to the lip on o/s and not figuring out how to get established above the roof. (Maybe because I am a sportclimber at heart?)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Railroad Tracks (5.10)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 13, 2007

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Comments: Bear paws beware, first time around I did some 11c face/arete climbing to avoid the thin left crack. For me the the only way to do it straight in is with a footless move from a ringlock and a rattly fingerlock to a thin hand jam. My friend who is tall and have thinner hands than I have found the upper part harder then the start.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tofu Crack (5.10)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: I second the above comment. This route is longer than the 100 feet stated in Bloom's guidebook. I couldn't reach the ground on my 60 m rope, but my friend who is 40 lb heavier could (just). Unless you have a stretchy 60m and weight in at above 200 lb, use a 70 m line or downclimb a few meter of 5.7 climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Our Piece of Real Estate (5.11a)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: I climbed this one straight in in the left crack. It felt really really hard. 5.11 for sure, to call that 10+ is just retarded. Maybe there is some better beta though?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: The top two moves before getting established are really hard for us with fat fingers. Fell here on my only attempt and could barely make it to the anchors after resting.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Think Pink (5.11a)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: Friend #3 is the perfect size for much of this climb. For my size of hands this is by far the easiest of all the 11's I climbed during a months stay.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: Cool route, a lot different from most other routes in Indian creek in that you actually need to be able to climb face. The crack-climbing part of the route is 5.9/5.10 or so.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : unnamed classic hand crack ... (5.10+)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: Yeah, the hardest parts are the start and the end of this fantastic crack, obviously. Not the perfect hand 5.10 that make up most of this route. 5.11- is fair isn't it?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Rhythm Method (5.12)
By: Jonas Wiklund When: Dec 12, 2007

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Comments: I seconded Paco on this route and found it no harder than mid 5.11 with a "cordón umbilical". However: I went back to lead it a few weeks later and took a soft ground fall after having ripped three pieces of shit gear. After that my lead head was shot and I placed a piece of pro every 2 feet, at least, in the soft uninspiring rock. The grade made a bit more sense when pumped from putting in pro everywhere.

Don't use the thin profiled aliens on this route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: European equivalent of MP or UKC forum...General ClimbingJonas WiklundJun 10, 2013
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