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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Madsen's Buttress : The Visor (A3)
By: jonah When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This went free a couple years ago at 13b, I think, so please, no nailing if you want to aid it...
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Icicle Creek Bouldering : JY Boulders : Mad Max (V7)
By: jonah When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have heard people say this feels burly now: Ben, Jesse and I were out there last fall and broke both the left hand thumb catch near the lip and a nice foot for rocking over onto the slab. It definitely felt harder after that. Sorry!
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Location: WA : Newhalem
By: jonah When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI there is an online guide (incomplete but a good place to start) here:
http://www.misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem/index.html
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Location: WA : Newhalem
By: jonah When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to the years of effort of the Access Fund, the Washington Climbers Coalition and the great National Park Service staff, Newhalem is once again open for new routes!!
The above parties in conjunction with the Vertical World climbing team, the Wilderness Society and the Washington Trails Association just built a new trail to a new mega cliff just down the road. Walk down and check it out and bring your new-routing mojo! There is a decade's worth of potential in this gorge and years of new r... more >>
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Location: WA : Newhalem : Luna Park (5.11a)
By: jonah When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely some unique moves. Lots of fun, but it needs and extension!
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Location: WA : Newhalem : Cold Beer in the River (5.9+)
By: jonah When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. There is a 5.8 second pitch then a fun and tricky 11c third pitch which could use a little cleaning.
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Technorigine (5.12c)
By: jonah When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No good deed goes unpunished
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Boxcar Boulder : Yellow Fever (V6)
By: jonah When: Nov 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the same as the Boxcar Arete in Kelly's new guide? Cool problem, if that's the same one...
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : 5 Star Boulder : Rosbongo (V10)
By: jonah When: Oct 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went and got on this last weekend - the good pinch is gone. Real bummer. Definitely makes it harder to set up for moving to the left sidepull for the throw. Still fun, and a little more challenging.
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : 5 Star Boulder : Sobriosity (V6-7)
By: jonah When: Oct 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original finishing jug broke. Now you have to stall on a crimp where the jug used to be and go again to a higher jug. It's probably more fun that way anyway.
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : 5 Star Boulder : Rosbongo (V10)
By: jonah When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consensus does seem to be around 9ish, though I heard the pinch just broke on it. Weird - it seemed solid to me. Who knows - maybe harder or easier now. Fun problem, though! check out this vid of Kelly doing it:
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : Forest : Dr. Mario (V8)
By: jonah When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sure, might as well be. I thought the crux was getting to it...
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : Forest : Kaya's Krack (V5-6)
By: jonah When: Aug 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: What the hell? That is unbelievably weak.
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : Clearcut : Equinox (V10)
By: jonah When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa, did you send this rig, Gabe? I thought it was pretty rugged for a 9, anyway. Definitely 10ish. And the landing is a little tricky. You definitely want a spot - I turned my ankle by hitting the tree after blowing off going for the jug. Very fun problem, stays pretty dry, and seemed waaaay easier in low humidity conditions. That said, I sure as hell didn't send it...
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Icicle Creek Bouldering : The Egg : Musashi (V10)
By: jonah When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, here's a good video of it by Kelly.
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : 5 Star Boulder
By: jonah When: Mar 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice vid of the whole boulder here:
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : Forest : Baby Crackhead (V4)
By: jonah When: Jan 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: GREAT problem. Gave it 3 stars instead of 4 only because of the need to avoid scraping your ass on the ground. Like Bachar Cracker in Yosemite, but a bit harder.
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : Forest : Summer Solstice (V3-)
By: jonah When: Jan 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun. Went up there Jan 6, 2007 after 2" of rain the day before and this problem and others on equinox were dry. So nice.
Does anyone know what the problem is immediately to the right using the bad slopey left hand and the gnarly right hand pinch to high step and big pull to jug on left?
Know if the sit start has gone?
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Colchuck Balanced Rock
By: jonah When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.
But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.
Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though... more >>
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Chronic (5.13b)
By: jonah When: Jul 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed yesterday that the jug you clip the first bolt from is loose. If this thing ever breaks, you and your belayer are screwed, so heads up.
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Bad Guy (5.11c)
By: jonah When: Jun 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, really tricky to onsight. Deserves way more traffic, as it is much more thought provoking than Abo or Psychowussy.
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : Forest : Stinkin' Slopers (V5)
By: jonah When: May 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great problem. Amazing friction on the slopers with tons of core tension.
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Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders : Forest
By: jonah When: Apr 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks fun. Where is Doja? Is that in the East Forest? That boulder is supposed to have a bunch of cool lines on it.
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Location: WA : Bald Mountain Boulders
By: jonah When: Apr 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks sweet! Post some problems and directions!
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Cunning Stunt (5.10d)
By: jonah When: Mar 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though the above-mentioned bolt needs to be replaced, you can place a yellow metolius in the flake to its left. Don't fall too hard, though. It would suck to have that flake blow.
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