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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could've sworn it was 10+ before I checked the guidebook, but I guess it could be the infinite amount of ledges/rests between the business. Haha, what a clean line though. Seems like a great warm up for Ten Digit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: Jon Zucco When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: haha ignore the crimpy crystal rail above the third bolt...as well as the huge side pull to the left and slightly below the jug. now...jump!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Fear and Loathing, III (5.12-)
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ticking is not to be tolerated on anything below 13. Especially on a route as chalked and juggy as this precious gem.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : A Day in the Life (5.11b) : Photo
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the pinch feature directly above my right knee is pivotal for balance as you smear your feet up and gain the jug system I'm holding in this pic
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : A Day in the Life (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'm 5'9 and found no issues with this route. there is definitely no need to dyno. I enjoyed the movement, especially the start. just smear right and use that pinch feature for balance as you reach up out of the dish to the start of the juggies.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Yaak Crack (5.11d)
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i nearly onsighted this...got pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : I Claudius (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolted crack: ahhhh. I'm sure if the rock weren't freezing cold this route would've been less numbing and more amazing. I'd say 10d/11a.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route once you get onto the face after 4th bolt or so. Really cool/exposed moves working into the dihedral. Don't let the 5.6 run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt psyche you away from this gem.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Pet Semetary (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Starts with an awkward Eldo-like dihedral with a Table Mesa roof at the crux. Interesting combination.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Generation Gap (5.11a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The initial move is a little balancy/pumpy; follow the arrow and start left with the rope on your left side to prevent entanglement.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Um. So the 4TH BOLT: the NUT POPPED OFF today after someone took a fall on top rope at the tricky start. Good thing it was not a lead fall. Couldn't find where the nut fell to. Will replace ASAP. until then;
only climb this route if you have a 3/8" nut and corresponding hanger for 4TH BOLT, as someone may have taken it as booty by now. If someone gets to it before I do, you may consider epoxy to keep the nut securely tightened; to prevent further incidents.
However,... more >>
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall
By: Jon Zucco When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and when will that be...?
P.S. Bozo No no needs a more secure first bolt....
and to the reach the top of the Banana Tower you can easily jump or anchor the tree that's like 5 or 10 feet away.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Officer Friendly (5.11c)
By: Jon Zucco When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid jugs to a technical top out. Seems like a sweet warmup for the surrounding climbs.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Jon Zucco When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Jon Zucco When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why was this line bolted?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Gas Boost (5.8)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route was my girlfriend's hardest redpoint to date. i lead it afterwards to clean and it definitely seemed a little awkward, slick and pumpy for an 8. we had two beginners with us that couldn't even pull the opening sequence. for this i'll give it a +. could even be a 9- at parts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Abracadabra (5.5)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i wish the chimney were bigger, as it's the funnest part. good route for trad noobs. rope drag is cured with a high first placement. i used a camalot #2. There is however a nosey tree halfway up. and a slightly undesirable traverse to the chains. still worth it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Eight to Eleven (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ugh. i was thinking about attempting that route on wed. maybe i'll tell my girlfriend to wear gloves. always make it a point to distinguish lead and top rope belaying, especially if it's someone you met in a (gag) gym.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Juggernaut (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: sweet face climbing on good pockets. It's a breeze until the funky traverse at the third bolt. The crux is a big reach for the vert rail and pulling/smearing to the ledge above it for the fifth clip. the crux move aside, i found this to be a much easier red-point than it's neighbor primal magic.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Primal Magic (5.11a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the crux move on juggernaut is harder than any move on primal magic...however, pm has bigger initial moves and is slightly more sustained. interesting/misleading crux.
Chossy looking blocks of what looks like clay to the left of the lie-back and crux are bad foot holds! a few of them came off and hit my belayer from 40 ft. no bueno.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Petrified Turd (5.8)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Bozo No No (5.11a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First bolt is hard to clip, as it spins very loosely. Could be suspect to failure in a f2 fall, but I could hang on it pretty safely. Run out at the crux but you can head right towards the crack for easier climbing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - The Pile : Dog Pile (5.10b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: it's a sandbag. sweet sequence options. small holds. pumpy. sustained, ten plus climbing. totally worth pulling.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Witchhunt (5.10a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: one move wonder.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Thieving Magpie (5.7)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: area is definitely not grid-bolted. this route seems stiff at the shield, but totally doable and certainly not contrived. I'd say it's at least 5.8 because of the start and the thin crux. good route. i have no idea what everyone is arguing about.
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