Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could've sworn it was 10+ before I checked the guidebook, but I guess it could be the infinite amount of ledges/rests between the business. Haha, what a clean line though. Seems like a great warm up for Ten Digit.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Ripcord (5.12a)
By: Jon Zucco When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: haha ignore the crimpy crystal rail above the third bolt...as well as the huge side pull to the left and slightly below the jug. now...jump!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Fear and Loathing, III (5.12-)
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ticking is not to be tolerated on anything below 13. Especially on a route as chalked and juggy as this precious gem.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : A Day in the Life (5.11b) : Photo
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the pinch feature directly above my right knee is pivotal for balance as you smear your feet up and gain the jug system I'm holding in this pic
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : A Day in the Life (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'm 5'9 and found no issues with this route. there is definitely no need to dyno. I enjoyed the movement, especially the start. just smear right and use that pinch feature for balance as you reach up out of the dish to the start of the juggies.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Yaak Crack (5.11d)
By: Jon Zucco When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i nearly onsighted this...got pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that.
|
Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : I Claudius (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolted crack: ahhhh. I'm sure if the rock weren't freezing cold this route would've been less numbing and more amazing. I'd say 10d/11a.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route once you get onto the face after 4th bolt or so. Really cool/exposed moves working into the dihedral. Don't let the 5.6 run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt psyche you away from this gem.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Pet Semetary (5.11b)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Starts with an awkward Eldo-like dihedral with a Table Mesa roof at the crux. Interesting combination.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Generation Gap (5.11a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The initial move is a little balancy/pumpy; follow the arrow and start left with the rope on your left side to prevent entanglement.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: Jon Zucco When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Um. So the 4TH BOLT: the NUT POPPED OFF today after someone took a fall on top rope at the tricky start. Good thing it was not a lead fall. Couldn't find where the nut fell to. Will replace ASAP. until then;
only climb this route if you have a 3/8" nut and corresponding hanger for 4TH BOLT, as someone may have taken it as booty by now. If someone gets to it before I do, you may consider epoxy to keep the nut securely tightened; to prevent further incidents.
However,... more >>
|
Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall
By: Jon Zucco When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and when will that be...?
P.S. Bozo No no needs a more secure first bolt....
and to the reach the top of the Banana Tower you can easily jump or anchor the tree that's like 5 or 10 feet away.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Officer Friendly (5.11c)
By: Jon Zucco When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid jugs to a technical top out. Seems like a sweet warmup for the surrounding climbs.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Jon Zucco When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Jon Zucco When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why was this line bolted?
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Gas Boost (5.8)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route was my girlfriend's hardest redpoint to date. i lead it afterwards to clean and it definitely seemed a little awkward, slick and pumpy for an 8. we had two beginners with us that couldn't even pull the opening sequence. for this i'll give it a +. could even be a 9- at parts.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Abracadabra (5.5)
By: Jon Zucco When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i wish the chimney were bigger, as it's the funnest part. good route for trad noobs. rope drag is cured with a high first placement. i used a camalot #2. There is however a nosey tree halfway up. and a slightly undesirable traverse to the chains. still worth it.
|
RSS Feed
