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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Mac and Ronnie in Cheese (5.9+)
By: Jon O'Brien When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey John,
pretty sure mike moore graciously replaced it... gracias mr. moore!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Photo
By: Jon O'Brien When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: it'll cause alien geologists alot of trouble in another few thousand years... either way, its nothing to get worked up about imo, prettier to look at than bolt and piton scars!
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Location: UT : Saint George
By: Jon O'Brien When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dear Clay,
You can't spell, the VRG is in Arizona, your grammar makes no sense, and you're combative. Maybe its time to delete the negative comments...
;-)
Thanks
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Spectrum (5.11a)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The horn broke on me at it's tip but it's still a very very good jug,(sorry, momma grows em big), I can't comment on the grade as I didn't send, I had to pull on a piece to get over... The start seemed shady so we actually pulled the brass balls crux(very well bolted one-move wonder) and then traversed into spectrum from that... we also traversed from above the crux pitch directly into birdland before its crux without any problem(nice way to finish)... route was ok but we enjoyed taking turns w... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : cayenne corners (5.10d)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland, 2000.
Total height: 690'
1st pitch:165' 5.9
2nd pitch: 185' 5.10d
3rd pitch: 110' 5.9
4th pitch: 140' 5.10b/c
5th pitch: 90' 5.9
rappel the route w/ two ropes
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the purpose of this website is information, thanks for posting it. those that desire the adventurous, information-free ascents won't be studying this page. BTW, insulting the first ascentionists of such a proud line is, in fact, out of line.
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Location: NV : Keyhole Canyon
By: Jon O'Brien When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Hey,
we've done every route there, made a lil' guide for it w/ grades taken blind from 4 people: relatively accurate...
Email me and I'll give you the beta...
Would love to trade for info on Rainbow Canyon
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Nightmare on Crude Street (5.10d)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh shit! Thanks to Mike Moore and the ARI! Unless more of us get involved I think sport will become more dangerous than trad as many of our country's older lines are due for a renovation...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Cocopuss (5.10a/b)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think the grade works if you stick to the bolts at the roof/arete, it's easy to go waay left and pull up on dyna-jugs but it's sketchily away and around from the bolt... that's my take on it anyway. it IS fun, the one on the right is awesome too!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys put up awesome routes, cheers :-)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Meyer's Cracks : Photo
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow, now that's helpful! LOL thanks for the beacon!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Meyer's Cracks
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome, looks as good as i'd heard! much appreciated post friend :-)
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Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon (Veyo)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm a legit trad climber, I fervently believe we should preserve climbs that the next generation can lead on gear by NOT bolting anything that can be protected otherwise. That being said, the veyo situation is unique: the insurance liability is profound for land owners and they have chosen to let us climb on their rocks as long as they are protected by bolts. (Trad climbing would alter their liability for the worse) This anomaly is a rare situation where bolting is the lesser of two evils (th... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Superfly (5.10c)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loses a point for bat shit?! Hmmm... that's very rugged of you.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Stupid Cat (5.10d)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: tell you what bro, went there randomly after work one day and thought the same exact thing! there's some more good bolted routes to the right of practice crack and electric orange peeler on kraft, also shockingly awesome...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks so much Gigi! Killer info! I'll pass it on! I'll know on June 8th whether or not we'll adopt the High Scaler mascot, I'll be sure to post! Anyone with info, post it, I'll forward it to our principal..
Thanks Everyone!!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: does anyone know where this sculpture is located? i put in a request for the new SWCTA high school to hold the "high scalers" as a mascot! i'd like as much info as possible, we're voting right now, but we may be able to commemorate these folks! thanks for any info...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost Creek Canyon : Bighorn Buttress (5.10+ R)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick Climb! Did it Saturday... Not sure where the 10+ comes from, the line is very clearly an 11a with the crux being a traverse up and right from the bolts. The 10D "variation" of climbing the arete straight up and then traversing is just that, a variation, it also seems pointlessly dangerous, the crimpers are protected by the bolt that is, in fact, good. Bad info to say that the credit card crimpers are friable. I'm 230 pounds and those puppies are SOLID! (leaders, protect the corner as hi... more >>
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place looks awesome! Is that guidebook available?! I'll pay top dollar! I've got some unborn children to offer up if money's not your fancy, LOL...
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin : ... : Hair Raiser Buttress (5.9 R)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an "OLD SCHOOL" classic! STOP ADDING BOLTS UNLESS YOU CLAIM THE FA OR HAVE THE FA PARTY'S BLESSING! Isn't it that simple?! Let's have some pride and respect for our classics! The first ascentionists are locals and are available for input, go ask them next time, if they give their blessing, have at it!(I hope you at least have the integrity to bolt it in the same style they did! There's a REASON there's so few bolts...) If you aren't sure about the climb, don't lead it! There are a ple... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Ma... (5.7)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What up Alan! I lived in Mammoth for years, we met through Scott a couple times, I love the name of this climb! you've obviously been drinking at the clock tower once or twice! LOL... bolting that cliff was great, gives a great place to bring all the "queens" climbing after drunken promises...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a) : Photo
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lookin solid brother! I always thought the roof was so giant! It looks almost tiny in the photo.. LOL thanks for posting! I'm inspired to lead it now...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Five and Dime (5.10b)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really like this route. I'm not sure about 10b. If you stay on the hard side of the arete with the bolts it felt like a good/ hard 10d to me. Either way, awesome combo deal if you hit small purchase!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Small Purchase (5.10a)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you! One of the best pitches in the park! I had the pleasure of doing this one after your renovations; Thanks again for the anchor :-)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Stick Left (5.10c)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hell Yea Bro! I hesitate to say it but the Stick Gully is SICK! Both climbs are awesome! It's actually a peaceful hike back there too if you take your time and meander through and around all the boulders. We walked up on a huge herd of fully grown male bighorns. Rock quality = awesome. Climbing = awesome, from the ground to the anchor!
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