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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Bouldering : The Force (V11)
By: Jon McCartie When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From what I've heard, this problem no longer exists in its FA form. It now goes at v9 and is called "The Farce" after a glued hold was pried with a crow-bar, making a much larger hold and lowering the grade.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Dixon Lake : The Prowe Area : The Prowe (5.11b/c)
By: Jon McCartie When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I worked on this last weekend. Note: do not try upper crux in the sun. Much harder when you're roasting and your rubber is turning to liquid.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Dixon Lake : Eagles Peak Area : Chinese Arithmatic (aka Cho... (5.11a/b)
By: Jon McCartie When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does it finish straight up (above the undercling)? Or does it follow that seam up to the pinnacle?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - East Face : Electralux (5.9)
By: Jon McCartie When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unless I totally missed it, the anchors are much farther left (15 ft.) from where they are in the beta pic above.
Great climb - definitely got my heart pounding a few times on lead.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : Mozart's Wall : Quickstep (V2)
By: Jon McCartie When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there a direct problem here? Using only the pockets?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Cap Rock Bouldering : The Hatrack : Sombrero (V0+)
By: Jon McCartie When: Mar 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: or v1. depends on who you ask, I guess. ( http://tinyurl.com/254m33 ) well, if it had loose holds and a death landing: http://www.fishproducts.com/powerandrubber/grades.html :)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Cap Rock Bouldering : The Hatrack : Sombrero (V0+)
By: Jon McCartie When: Mar 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: isn't this a v1? it's that in the Josh bouldering guide...and in the featured picture..
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : The Womb (V-easy)
By: Jon McCartie When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: agreed. i've usually seen it as 5.8 and agree with this.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happie... : Happy Boulders : Photo
By: Jon McCartie When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: black magic? (v3R)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Powell Boulder : Powell Face (V3)
By: Jon McCartie When: Feb 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ohhhhh. no, there's nothing missing. i figured it out. :)
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point
By: Jon McCartie When: Jan 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: working on creating a collection of video beta for a number of SoCal bouldering areas. here's what I have for Stoney Point. check back often...
http://www.vimeo.com/album/5836
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : B1 Boulder : Master of Reality (V5)
By: Jon McCartie When: Jan 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dish has broken. I sent it today -- it still goes, but getting established in the dish requires some patience
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happie... : Sad Boulders : ... : Pow Pow (V7)
By: Jon McCartie When: Dec 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome problem.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : The Boxer Problem (V2)
By: Jon McCartie When: Dec 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: my beta:
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Stonehenge and Fry Boulders : Stonehenge Boulders : ... : Picture Perfect (V1)
By: Jon McCartie When: Dec 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: my beta:
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Lizzie Boulder : Not So Thin Lizzie (V4)
By: Jon McCartie When: Dec 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: my beta:
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Jon McCartie When: Dec 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: finally, a great shot of this problem. thank you!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : ... : So High (V5 R)
By: Jon McCartie When: Nov 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: done and done.
nice slideshow!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : ... : So High (V5 R)
By: Jon McCartie When: Nov 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: took some pics of this area last weekend. hopefully that should help beef it up.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Stonehenge and Fry Boulders : Fry Boulders : ... : Fry Problem (V2)
By: Jon McCartie When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: very cool moves.
my beta:
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : ... : Photo
By: Jon McCartie When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pic!
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Location: AZ : Priest Draw : Anorexic Roof : Anorexic (V6)
By: Jon McCartie When: Nov 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: HA! that's funny.
better link:
http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/talltales/ellaanorexic/
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Real Hidden Valley Circuit : Sports Challenge Rock
By: Jon McCartie When: Oct 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: from a user's perspective, it may be easier keeping it inside the "Real Hidden Valley Bouldering" section...if you're looking to boulder in this area, it would be easier to find these climbs beneath this section than separating them by putting them underneat the "Sports Challenge Rock" main section.
$0.02
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Powell Boulder
By: Jon McCartie When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you, Russ. I didn't even know the name of Dutzi Rock! thanks for informing me. (the miramontes guide only calls it a "mountain" ... and I couldn't find any more information on this area).
Thanks again. I will update with this excellent description and valuable history.
-Jon
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Powell Boulder : Powell Face (V3)
By: Jon McCartie When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: i worked on this, but there seemed to be a missing left foot. checking the rock, it looked like something broke off recently. can someone confirm? or did i just totally mess up the beta?
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