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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 5. Saturday Buttress : Jasper's Dihedral (5.8)
By: Jon Cannon When: Oct 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I gave this three stars; I think it is probably one of the best routes in the area, but it begs the question: does that alone merit four stars, or would you compare it to other climbs in other areas? I'm not sure I could say that this route was on a par with, say, Dark Shadows at Red Rocks or the Kor-Ingalls Route on Castleton Tower. In fact, I'm not sure that I could say this route was as good as Cat in the Hat (which I also gave three stars), but I would think it's certainly worth ... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The Raven (5.9+)
By: Jon Cannon When: Sep 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I counted nine bolts up to the anchors. Is the 4th bolt (right at the traverse; skipping this bolt would certainly reduce the rope drag) on a different route, maybe?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Lizard Rock : Entry Fee (5.8 R)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jan 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Too short, and the texture of the rock is like a cheese grater. The exposure over on the right side was fun, though. An OK route, but not terribly indicative of what I think of when I think of Fisher Towers climbing.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: Jon Cannon When: Dec 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, um, can we put up route descriptions on CB.com? Yes, obviously, I *CAN*, but I'm wondering if the developers would prefer that everyone go out and buy the guidebook (which is in -- what? its fifth iteration?). I really, really enjoyed the Solar Slab area, and had some fun shots of Tava I wanted to put up.
Cheers to the folks who developed this fun resource.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Bloody Englishman (5.8)
By: Jon Cannon When: Oct 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd say this is all of an .8, even by South Platte standards. It's certainly more difficult than Gobble Up, also rated an .8, but I agree that there's only about 20 feet of sustained hard climbing before it becomes a walk.
Oh, and Chris Wray took that action photo I submitted. Credit where it's due, and all that.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument
By: Jon Cannon When: May 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Heading up to the Monument in a little over a week, and am stoked. Just one question: Is it possible to hike from the base of Sentinel Spire (with its convenient rap-in) to Independence Monument by way of, say, Wedding Canyon? Ideally, we'd like to have the opportunity (perhaps overly ambitious) to do Otto's Route and then Fast Draw. And if one were able to do this, how does one get back to the CG? Any and all beta would be much appreciated.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: Jon Cannon When: Mar 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: They added a bolt? It's an outrage!
When *I* first led Finger Ramp, it was more vertical, there were fewer holds, and, um ... there was a rule that you had to haul a 200-pound pack up with you while leading.
I suppose the next thing they'll do is issue Lycra when you register.
;-)
All kidding aside, probably a real good idea.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca
By: Jon Cannon When: Feb 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moderate Mecca is a superb area for beginning to moderate climbers. South-facing, it gets LOTS of sun. The short approach makes this crag easily accessible to even the portliest climber. Driving to the parking area, however, takes one right through the heart of a residential area, so *please* be considerate of the neighbors.
Traveling west down West Charleston, turn right on to Calico Basin Road. Drive 1.2 miles to a T-intersection and turn left into the Red Spring picnic area. Park at the sout... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock
By: Jon Cannon When: Dec 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know the name of the route which goes up from the chains at the top of Finger Ramp to the chains at the top of Son of Tedrick's? It follows the same line as Finger Ramp past three bolts and then traverses about fifteen feet to the Tedrick's anchor.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Rocket Fuel (5.11b)
By: Jon Cannon When: Oct 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is concentrated evil.
Whomever declared that it has three distinct personalities was spot on in their assessment. The climbing on the upper headwall was a bit more difficult, IMO, but that's perhaps because I was beat by the time I got up to it.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods
By: Jon Cannon When: Jul 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's nothing H about your O, B-Dub. ;-)
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Three Graces : The Window (5.2)
By: Jon Cannon When: Apr 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right after the window is a travers across an unprotected ledge which is the technical and psychological "crux" (to the extent that anything at 5.2 can be considered a crux) of the route. A slip on the traverse would wreck someone's day. Has anyone figured out a good placement for some protection on the traverse?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Fastest Drill (5.9)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jan 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: One other thing: if the belayer anchors into that big-ass rock down on that broad area at the base of Cowboy Boot Crack, s/he *should* be able to arrest the intrepid leader's fall before s/he decks.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Fastest Drill (5.9)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jan 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: One brief comment: As Brian woefully discovered, the best route is to head *straight* to the left. Don't angle left and up toward the first pin, go straight left and then up to the pin. For the third bolt, ya just gotta commit. A very enjoyable route. And, as much as I hate to admit it, nice lead, Brian.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : New Era (5.7)
By: Jon Cannon When: Nov 12, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A classic climb, and deservedly so. While it's composed of the same type of Dakota sandstone as everything else in the park, it appears to have a different quality -- more incut and solid, IMHO. Definitely not a climb for new leaders, I would suggest that the grades here (and, generally, over on Kindergarten Rock) are a little stiffer than those found in the rest of the Garden.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Trigger Finger (5.9)
By: Jon Cannon When: Oct 27, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gee, Dave, sorry you think only the "right people" deserve to climb on "your rock", as it appears from your post. Perhaps you should look at my profile and Darin's before spouting. If you bothered, you might discover that I am a Nebraska climber, yes, but that I grew up in Colorado Springs. Does that give me an adequate enough pedigree to climb at the Garden? Darin is from Nebraska, too, but currently resides in Castle Rock. Does he get to learn the secret handshake required for climbing at... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Trigger Finger (5.9)
By: Jon Cannon When: Aug 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bold words for someone whose team doesn't even have scoreboard.
In my estimation, it would be VERY easy to get off-route on Trigger Finger. The last time I climbed there, there was a far easier line heading off to the left, and it would of course be very tempting to hop on to Cowboy Boot Crack for some of the more difficult sections.
Does anyone know the name of the route to the left of Trigger Finger?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Trigger Finger (5.9)
By: Jon Cannon When: Aug 13, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should have mentioned that a 60m rope will JUST reach the beginning of Cowboy Boot Crack from the upper bolts. I would agree that it should be at least 9+, but what the hell do those Nebraska climbers know?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Cowboy Boot Crack (5.6)
By: Jon Cannon When: Aug 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route again on Sunday. There is a placement where the Cowboy Boot (the 15-foot tall finger-like formation near the bottom of the route) leans up against the headwall where one could girth-hitch a bridge (I hesitate to call it a pot-hole) between the Boot and the headwall. The bridge is dangerously eroded, and I doubt it would hold a fall.
To me, this raises an interesting question. Obviously, the bridge (or whatever you geologists would prefer to name it) has eroded because of use... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Cannabis Sportiva (5.11a)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jul 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's possible to heel-hook the horn to get some additional leverage while trying to pull the burly .11a move; Laura Black tried it on Saturday, 6/29/02, and it seemed to give her the extra bit of "oomph" weaklings like me need to pull harder moves. This is a thoroughly enjoyable climb, made more enjoyable by the steadily-increasing difficulty.
It might be just me, but it appears to me that the left bolt at the top of this route could probably stand to be replaced.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Cresent Corner (5.9+)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jun 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very strenuous route for those of us who are less graceful on our feet. Don't forget the right side of the corner -- it will sometimes afford good holds just when you thought you were screwed.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Mighty Thor (5.10c)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jun 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I counted you using thirteen draws on this route, Darin. It definitely behooves the leader to NOT clean the last three draws or so of this route, as a fall at the crux implicates a pretty good-sized pendulum (translation: the second would have a devil of a time getting back on route).
The crux move is in the middle of a fantastic sequence, when the main headwall begins to loom menacingly over the intrepid climber. You're gonna explore the limits of Stealth rubber on this one!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Potholes (5.7)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jun 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best climbing on this route, IMO, is the first twenty or so feet before the first pin. Just above the second pin, in what appears would make an excellent slot for a hand (thus affording a good rest) is a MASSIVE pile of bird crap. The last move is really sandy, especially on lead. I probably spent about ten minutes trying to decide between going straight up, to the left, or to the right. As with most Garden routes, the obvious move (going straight up) is the the best one.
A couple of th... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Upper Lip (5.7)
By: Jon Cannon When: Jun 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Define "coy", Darin. ;-) Perhaps for those of us with simian arms, it doesn't feel like much of a roof. Now, if only I had simian strength to go with it ...
Seriously, though. I thought I'd read somewhere that to be a true "roof", it has to project from the main wall about six feet. Am I just making up something out of the aether?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: Jon Cannon When: Nov 28, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt is about 20' off the deck; fortunately, a groundfall (as my friend Blaine discovered) won't be so bad, as the ramp makes a groundfall more like a ground-slide. The pink tri-cam really needs to be seated properly in the piton scar, lest it pull at an unfortunate moment. The piton scar is about 10' off. Any fall prior to the crux would implicate a decent pendulum, on to a manky friable .9 or so face.
This was a stout .7, but very enjoyable. I would recommend it to any... more >>
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