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Member Since: Apr 21, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2016
Contact Jon O'Brien

Point Rank: # 1,446
Total Points: 532
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon O'Brien been climbing?










Contributions


All 917 | Routes 24 | Areas 3 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 127 | Posts 188 | Stars 304 | Ratings 247
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: From 5.8 to 10b!!?!?????

:-/

c'mon man...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Last In Line (5.10b) : Photo
By: Jon O'Brien When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Adventure Guppies (5.8)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: get around the park a bit and compare the grades of classic trad climbs against this climb that was bolted for burgeoning trad climbers and you'll be a little red in the face.. "adventure guppies" is a play on "adventure punks"... in this case, context is everything ;-)

this climb was bolted for those of us that have sights set on the canyons and it I HOPE it puts folks on track to someday lead adventure guppies as well!!

p.s. i think adventure punks is the pride of red rock ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 16, 2015

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Comments: i revisited 3 times and put a ton of thought into this and i don't think its worth drilling another hole for a bolt that is 10 ft off the ground, this is a largely 4th class climb and people are not going to project it bolt to bolt, the majority of the angle is closer to a ski run than a rock climb.
I could add a fixed draw to eliminate the cross load that might occur 10 feet off the ground but the trolls would gobble that up as well. the cross load you are so concerned with would occur as a t... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : That Goode Dude Climb (5.7)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Hear Hear! A good Goode dude indeed, great route name Mike!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: No worries, I'll swap them when the crowds die down, every time i've gone up there to work on them there have been climbers on the climb and they all preferred to keep climbing/ weren't concerned enough to finish their session. I aim to go up there 2 more times in the next two weeks and I bet the crowd'll die down w/ the colder weather coming in...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Dustin placed another photo of that bolt up, i didn't think it was a problem at the time of installation, now i am double-thinking, i will head up and spend some time with it and move it up a bit if it needs it. thanks again for the comments/ suggestions.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: I'll head up there and double check that soon, thanks, if it needs to be moved I will move it ASAP.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: I can see why you would think that but two points:

1. they are fixe hangars and are designed to be placed slightly off vertical towards the 5 o'clock orientation, i like the design because, if a bolt gets loose, the action of hanging on the bolt tightens it slightly. they are more recent than the traditional up/down hangars you might be used to.

2. the bolts in the horizontal striations/ low angle terrain ARE in odd places because i believe in keeping bolts somewhat close to each other on... more >>


Location: NV : Lake Mead Area : Lake View Crag
By: Jon O'Brien When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: cool, thanks for the post!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mother's Crag : Dream Girl (5.4)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: Great comments, thanks, I agree that you want to extend your draws down low, I think that a leader that navigates this route with no drag, builds a safe anchor, safely brings up their second, and then negotiates a safe rappel is ready to move on to whatever the next step is in their mind. I learned to climb in the Gunks, a community of climbers like no other that supports beginners learning in a happy, safe way and I have tried to add a few routes to Red Rock for the beginners with that in mind... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : Un-Named Traverse (V5)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: what is the orientation of the traverse? when's it go in the shade?



thanks,


jon


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : Tooth Decay (5.11b)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: i like the billy joel reference in your naming...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Fist or Flips (5.10c)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: cool to post, thanks, have wanted to do this in combo every time we head to that area but have never bothered to go look, nice post!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully : Blue Feathers (5.10+)
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: glad to see peeps up in the gemstone gully, nice work!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : Dog Wall
By: Jon O'Brien When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: Many knew Moon, the dog. She passed yesterday as it snowed in the canyons. She was a proud sled dog, a trusted climbing partner, and my best friend. I think the mountains recognized a sled dog's last day with snow yesterday, she was a true extension of the Malamut.

Thanks to the universe for Moon. She always got me home when it was dark and I didn't know the way.

Rest in peace girl!

A RoooooooOOOooooooOOOooooooOOOooooOOOO!

Moon
Born March 12, 2000: Mammoth Sled Dogs. Upper team.
Died A... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Baseboy (Bolted Variation) (5.11a/b)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: You live here, follow through and buy one and replace it, you can unscrew and pop it in quickly. if not, consider an email and donation or offer to assist the local chapter of the ASCA.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Red Rock Rendezvous 2013 - ...
By: Jon O'Brien When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: Red Rock Rendezvous is a plague of environmental/ user impact upon our park. We sit and trade countless emails about the impact of a bolt or not a bolt while the rendezvous is the single biggest negative ecological impact on our park annually.


meet up groups have been discouraged from gathering en masse and they have honored that, they live here. i can't comprehend why an event that caters to tourists and doesn't care about locals at all is allowed to take place. i personally asked to pay ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower Summit : Cinnamon Hedgehog (5.10a) : Photo
By: Jon O'Brien When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: cool pic Michelle, thanks :-)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Handbone (5.10)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: first pitch of clod tower


Location: NV : Wheeler Peak
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: what is the typical ideal window? what do you mean by "late spring"?
thanks!

jon


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The J Wall : Mind if I do a J? (5.10b)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: route name from the big lebowski?

real men also cry mr. lebowski, real men also cry


Location: NV : Tahoe Nevada Shores : Cave Rock
By: Jon O'Brien When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: "The Washoe people decided that the tunnels were okay and also the hiking trail to the top, but rock climbing is unacceptable"


hmmm... i would have thought the people groping/ loving the rock itself were the MOST pious... some d-bag can drive a land rover through a tunnel that was blasted with dynamite and paved but you can't take your shirt off and clip some bolts? i smell b.s. on the wind from the north


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Blue Sky Bluff : Free Flying is Neither (5.8)
By: Jon O'Brien When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: great 5.8 bolted route!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Williams/ Sycamore Canyon : Paradise Forks
By: Jon O'Brien When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: how do you guys feel about the tr solo set ups?

in MY mind, it is the same as rappelling because the rope doesn't move much and it is even possible for some tr solo set-ups to be less of an impact than bringing up a second after leading.

i've never seen tr solo more anywhere else, curious on your thoughts...


thanks!


jon


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