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Member Since: Jun 9, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 9,473
Total Points: 36
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has JCM been climbing?


All 1261 | Routes | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 1245 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: JCM When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this on a nice sunny day in November 2015. A few thoughts on approach/descent/gear/etc:

Approach: Of the 3 options, I have done the "4th class" and the "5th class" approach, as described in the Handren guide. The "5th class" approach is definitely superior; it is faster and avoids most of the annoying boulder hopping. I generally am not too psyched about unroped 5th class, but this was super mellow; any steep bits were extremely secure jug hauling. Routefinding w... more >>

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Model Worker (5.11c)
By: JCM When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Kerwin's rack beta is spot on. Doubles to 0.4 and singles to #2 was just right to let you always have the gear you need, but not carry an excess amount.

I lowered to the ground from the upper anchor with an 80, and got down with ~2 meters to spare. Knot the end!

Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Three O'clock Rock : The Quin Konehead Pre-Memor... (5.9)
By: JCM When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Rapping off the top of this route on 8/23/2015, there was a freshly bolted route left of the usual rap line. It looked brand-spanking new; there was still lots of fresh rock dust around the bolts, so they looked like they had gone in a week or two prior. Aside from the new route looking cool, it also provided a nice rap line with fresh new chain-and-ring anchors, instead of the janky webbing of the normal rap line. The stations were reasonably close together, so it looked like maybe(... more >>

Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: JCM When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: PDF guide for Staunton now available at Fixed Pin:

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Drunk Lover (5.11d)
By: JCM When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: As of summer 2012, this has cleaned up reasonably well and is a decent route.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Photo
By: JCM When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: WOW! Amazing picture.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lower Falls Amphitheatre : Ten Years After (5.10d)
By: JCM When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: Really nice short finger crack; long moves between juggy finger locks. Great fun. Eats stoppers.

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: JCM When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: That above-head foot-cam move is the so-called "Belgian Beta", unlocked by Nico Favresse; I don't think that it was used on or before the first ascent. Most (all?) ascents since Nico have used it.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Rhythm Method (5.12)
By: JCM When: Jan 18, 2012

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Comments: Takes some 0 and 00 TCUs, or equivalent. Soft and sandy rock at the start doesn't inspire much confidence in the little cams; sewing it up is definitely justified. Nice moves, though, and probably still worth doing.

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Fear and Loathing in Keene ... (5.11b)
By: JCM When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Classic Spider's Web pump. There is a crux at the left leaning finger crack, but the crux isn't where you fall; the crux is what pumps you out so that you fall later on the 5.10a jugs at the top.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Pigpen (V4)
By: JCM When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: Great problem, but eats skin. Tape is a good idea.

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