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Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves
By: Jon Hanlon When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no camping at Wagon Caves. You can camp at Santa Lucia Memorial Park, approximately 5 miles down the road.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome : East Face : Rock the Casbah (5.9+)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always thought this was harder than 5.9 as well. I would agree with 5.9 plus....specifically, plus one.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Epidural (5.10a)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Mar 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken,
I climbed this with you in March 2004, and indeed, I remember you mentioning that your wife was in the hospital either recovering from, or preparing to give birth to your daughter! Can't remember the details, but the route was brand new.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall : Chouinard-Bossier (5.9 R)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Feb 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Impressive.
Great entry and strong work indeed!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Impacted Stool Crack (5.9)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Feb 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was pretty irritated when somebody added bolts to Harlots Slot, and renamed it. In my opinion, when somebody adds bolts to an existing TR, they are retrobolting an existing climb...not doing a first ascent. Many climbers feel that a TR is fair game for bolting and renaming, I do not. I think retrobolting TRs is unacceptable and a little pathetic, but not everyone agrees. www.mountainproject.com/v/california/central_coast/san_luis_>>>
The difference with the retrobolting o... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Jamcrack Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Nov 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work!
Whoooo, that #3 looks spooky.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6) : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Jun 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: California Mountain Kingsnake
www.californiaherps.com/snakes/pages/l.zonata.html
Edit:
an interesting note:
Nonvenomous
Considered harmless to humans. (There are no venomous snakes in California that can be mistaken for this snake, but the similar-looking Arizona Coral Snake, found in Arizona, is venomous and dangerous.)
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : ... : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Jun 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excerpt from "Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2003".
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Lower Mission Canyon / Seve... : Upper Theology Crag : Trial of Faith (5.10d)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Apr 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are unwilling to TR or lead the route, you could fix a temporary line from above to allow you to climb to the end of the crack (and beyond), clipping preplaced knots. You could even lower from the end of the crack if you don't want to finish the climb.
This would be better than retrobolting a route that has obviously seen at least one free ascent.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Apr 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: These bolts have been added to either McTavish (RH variation), Hangin' Round, or Chips Block. Can't really tell from the photo, but they all share the dihedral.
It is certainly on an established routes and interrupts climbing in the middle of a pitch where perfect natural pro exists. It also appears someone has scrubbed the moss off the rock where the rope is hanging.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the belayer is standing at the car taking a picture of his friend rapelling Ending Crack. ;]
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Face Lift (5.7 R)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're right Jeff. When most of these routes were put up there was no such thing as trad (or sport). I think you are pointing out that this is a bolted route with limited opportunities for pro. True, but I would not consider it a sport climb.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : South Face : Hades (5.13a) : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "That guy?"...
Haha!
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can comment on that pitch since I just did it last weekend.
The answer is FAR. I would say roughly 35 feet apart. The harder sections are in the vicinity of the bolts (5.8 moves within 0-15 feet of bolts), but there is real climbing on the whole pitch. The bulk of the climbing is probably 5.6-5.7. Everything is there, you just have to be calm and patient and look around...the easiest path is quite circuitous. As Brad says, the runouts aren't horrendous, but it takes focus and I definitely... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Paradise Road : Gold Chasm : Swift Trip (5.11a/b)
By: Jon Hanlon When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, keep the brush at home. Sandstone and brush don't mix, and this one will always be a sand mine.
I rapped off that lone, questionable bolt about 17 years ago. It scared the sh#t out of me then, and I don't even want to imagine what it looks like now...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I keep coming back to look at this...Really cool.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo!
I had never heard of a Speckled Rattler...Super interesting!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Toprope Wall : Sinbad (5.6)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent route.
FA Brad Young and Clint Cummins, 4/05
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Dark Side of the Moon (5.8 PG13)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this a new line, or is it Motor Mouth with a new name?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Pump Floyd (5.10b/c)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Ken Klis beat you to it....
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall
By: Jon Hanlon When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have climbed here lots, and never noticed anything much beyond a bunch of good climbs and fun adventures.
Steve Edwards, could you be a little more specific with your comments? You have said some things that I suspect may result in the area getting "fixed", which in the past has entailed moving bolts, cutting vegetation, relocation of anchors, addition of toprope anchors, and generally making the area toprope ready and safe for the children. Specifically, you said the area could be retro'd.... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Caveman (5.11+) : Photo
By: Jon Hanlon When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would like to see a larger pic of this...looks like a great shot.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cielo Crack Crag : Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalo... (5.11a)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember checking this out in '91 and getting rejected by the poison oak! I always imagined returning with a Tyvec suit but never did. Nice work!
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area
By: Jon Hanlon When: Jun 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: HAHA....I had the EXACT same experience there a few years back! Must be his M.O...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Jon Hanlon When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is some traversing at the beginning of the second (5.5ish) and third pitches (one 5.7 move). A 5.7-5.8 climber should have no problem. Enjoy!
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