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Rock Climbing Photo: Nose


Member Since: Jul 1, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact jomey

Point Rank: # 8,690
Total Points: 50
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 275 | Routes | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 14 | Stars 147 | Ratings 92

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: jomey When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: My take on this:

- Give your cams a day off. All cruxes are well protected with bolts.
- Link pitches 2 and 3. Clip the alcove belay on top of P2 with a long runner.
- No need for extra protection on the last pitch. There are 7 bolts all in the right spots. After the first three which are going up and right you pretty much stay on a straight line to the big roof above you.
- Don't pull on everything and double check. This is an active alpine environment where everything can ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Lightning : White Lightning (5.10-)
By: jomey When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Personal gear beta on this:
2x #0.75, 2x #1, 2x #2, blue DMM Walnut for the top move

Did not place a single #3. Only helpful for building an anchor at the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8)
By: jomey When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: If you want to go light and fast on the gear, I would bring a single set from 0.4 to #2 and a set of nuts. Long slings are essential and make sure you have enough.

All rap stations are still in good shape.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Spam (5.9)
By: jomey When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Did the 2nd pitch and had to come down for a #4 Camalot. Appreciated to protect the last wide part before the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Wee Doggie (5.10-)
By: jomey When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Protected the start with a BD #0.5 and 0.75. After that it is a cruiser.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tofu Crack (5.10)
By: jomey When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Two BD #0.75 make the layback a breeze.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Elation (5.10+)
By: jomey When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Brought doubles for 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 3


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/... (5.10+)
By: jomey When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: Took another BD #1 and was happy to have that just after the mini roof/big pod.

Heads up:
Block just after the first pod is loose. Not looking to come out any time soon though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Unnamed (5.10)
By: jomey When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Did not use the #3 unless you want to protect the first move onto the starting block.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome
By: jomey When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: One of the safest bolted areas you will find in the Meadows.


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Black September (5.9)
By: jomey When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: FYI: The fixed piece - red rigid stem Friend about 1/3 up the route - is gone. It is back where it belongs (original owner).


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: jomey When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: Doable in three pitches with a 70m rope, if you don't use any of the bolted anchors and run it out on every pitch. There are lot's of opportunities to build a natural anchor.

Sad to see that there are bolts on the first pitch next to a perfect crack.

Agree, that the mantel move is not 5.5.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Lemon (5.9-)
By: jomey When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: The rusty bolt is gone.
There are now two solid ASCA bolts plus rap chains.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Razor Back : Slasher (5.9)
By: jomey When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: P2 is very fun and definitely worth doing. My take is more a 5.9.
Can rap from the route with a 70m easily.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Razor Back : Dastardly Rascal (5.9 PG13)
By: jomey When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: P1 is less than 160 feet. My estimate is more 110.
You can rap from P2 with a 70m rope all the way to the base.



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