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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : El Crapitan (5.8)
By: John Ross When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5 bolts actually, to double ring anchors. Lower half cleaner. Still a few loose blocks on the upper half.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : The Edge of Chaos (5.11b/c)
By: John Ross When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What I loved about this route is how you get your feet up and commit to a move to be rewarded by good pockets and edges. 10 bolts and chains for sure. Climbed it twice in a row and it felt 5.11b both times. A bit tricky following the wandering bolt line. Way fun none the less! Love this White Wave formation.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Mile 385 area (mile markers... : Problem Child (5.12c PG13)
By: John Ross When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think of all the rope stretch in that top rope!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: John Ross When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Groovy baby...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall : Tanks For Nothing (5.7)
By: John Ross When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing view of Tank Cyn from the top of this route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall
By: John Ross When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route List (left to right):
North Face
1. Liquid Oxygen 5.12a
2. The Abyss 5.12c/d
3. Shallow Beginning 5.11b (shares first 2 bolts with Abyss)
4. Deep End 5.11a (shares chains with Shallow Beginning)
5. Black Hole 5.10a
6. Physical Therapy 5.9 (shares chains with Black Hole)
7. Teenagers in Heat 5.10b/c
8. Litmus Test 5.11c
9. Shark Club 5.11d
10. Secret Weapon 5.12b
11. ?? 5.12c/d
West Face
1. Isotoner Moaner 5.12a/b
2. Rush Hour 5.11b
3... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Yuji Feet (5.11c)
By: John Ross When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 40 Feet, 5 bolts to chain anchors. 1/4" button heads replaced with 3/8" Powers 7/9/09.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Yuji Feet (5.11c)
By: John Ross When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard an interesting story about this route. Jeff Pedersen once watched a young 16 year old climber, Yuji Hirayama, do a route at Smith Rocks. Yuji wrapped his feet around the formation in order to climb it. This same "feet wrapping" technique is helpful on this route, otherwise the route is 5.13b. As a side note, Yuji Hirayama has since become quite an accomplished climber (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuji_Hirayama ). Find amazing videos of Yuji san on YouTube.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Miscellaneous Scattered Rou... : Warthog (5.10c)
By: John Ross When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd call it a harder .10c as Perin and I both thought this felt .10d. But .10c is what we were told it is rated.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon
By: John Ross When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dispersed (undeveloped) camping is allowed by the road on the National Forest land (per forest ranger at SF Ranger Station). There is a small barricade at the end of the dirt road indicating the start of the Mt Nebo Wilderness boundary. Camping is also allowed in the wilderness following normal wilderness rules.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Persistence. (5.11) : Photo
By: John Ross When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This set up may be sufficient for what it is being used for but strength is certainly reduced. Sometimes you use what you have even if it is not ideal. Wouldn't hurt to add a quicklink to each hanger as the sharp edges of the bolt hanger CAN cut the webbing.
Worth considering from an ACA forum :
A couple things that we do to help protect webbing that's tied directly to sharp hangers are:
1) Tie the knots so there's enough tail to th... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Persistence. (5.11) : Photo
By: John Ross When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Always makes me nervous to see webbing threaded through bolt hangers.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon
By: John Ross When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No established camping at all. Just a narrow dirt road to a dead end where the canyon starts. 10 miles up Nephi Canyon is Ponderosa and Bear Canyon Campgrounds though.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Kitchen : Mark's Corner (5.7)
By: John Ross When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed. Thanks Darren.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Leia's Leash (5.10a)
By: John Ross When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine line that keeps on giving. Starts with a long stretch of fun 5.7 climbing to a distinct crux. Some stemming helps keep the crux .10a and gets you to the chains. Four star quality climbing continues as you pull the roofs using huge holds, with so much exposure below. The views of the canyon and valley are a free bonus.
Props to everyone who helped make the awesome trail to get up here.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Jawa Jam (5.9)
By: John Ross When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A long fun climb start to finish. Well protected route on quality, textured limestone. Worth the hike by itself. Other great routes in the area make this area a fine climbing area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a) : Photo
By: John Ross When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Kip, I hope to be accused of being a safe climber.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Cool World Wall : Cool World (5.11a)
By: John Ross When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got the RP despite a hold breaking off mid climb. More holds have likely broken off over the years. Felt 5.11b fer sure. Getting to the pocket was key, as was finding the crimpers and small feet through the crux.
Walking off the top saves time and avoids the hassles of getting your rope stuck on all of the P3 chicken heads.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bug Barn Dance Wall : Desperate Land (5.10c)
By: John Ross When: Apr 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Each roof was a blast. I especially liked making committing moves and being rewarded by good holds above. Add to it good rock and a quiet location to really make this a classic route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Shadow and Flame (5.10b)
By: John Ross When: Mar 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still a little gravel on the route, and the bolts are a little spaced, so a cam under the first roof did add some confidence.
With amazing exposure and two roofs to pull, I give this route four stars!!!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Good Plantains (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Ross When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was our first pitch of our Bad Bananas / Trilogy Buttress climb on Saturday. I hope more climbers link up these two areas for some good long multi-pitch fun!
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Titcomb Basin Area : Fremont Peak : Photo
By: John Ross When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Titcomb Basin is such an incredible place. Towering granite peaks all around.
After climbing Gannett Pk a few years back we camped between Titcomb Lakes at the foot of Fremont Pk. Just after dark a massive rock fall came crashing down from the Fremont Pk area bringing everyone out of their tents! We were probably safe at that location, but we were sure spooked. The experience just added to our amazement of this awesome place.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: John Ross When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is some info about the climate in Oakley which is close by. Average high temp in March is 50.8 degrees F, average low temp is 27.7. Find a sunny wall in the afternoon and it just might work. This site will give you weather history.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Timpanogos : Everest Ridge (Mod. Snow)
By: John Ross When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The elevation for Dry Canyon was off but is fixed now. Thanks for noticing. The SummitPost link is more clear in the description now as well.
Look for perfect conditions on this route during the next several weeks.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Timpanogos : Everest Ridge (Mod. Snow)
By: John Ross When: Jan 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reading that account again, it doesn't say for certain, but it is likely that their "first winter ascent" of Timp was via this ridge.
From LeGrand Hardy's 1954 obituary:
"Always interested in the out-of-doors and any challenge that it presented, he was a member of the small party that was the first to climb Mt. Moran of the Teton range in Wyoming." (Perhaps he was a member of this party in 1941.)
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