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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Nose Drops (5.9-)
By: John Peterson When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sentry boxes are body sized recesses in the rock - very common in some areas. For example, http://www.dutkins.com/catalog/photos/BRI/89.JPG
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Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How so?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
By: John Peterson When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strange - looks like the route got deleted from the database.
I've been keeping up with new routes that are in Black Dick. If you add a route that's not on the list send me an email and tell me where it fits. jpeterson@western.edu
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Air Voyage (5.12-) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will do! Luke Mehall mentioned you were up there. You finished before us - you probably saw our light in that god awful gully above Blackjack fighting through the nettles and cacti. It must be nice to top out just minutes from your car. We had a front row seat for your ascent of the OW!
I'll email tomorrow - the pictures are at home.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Blackjack (5.10-)
By: John Peterson When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As we were about to leave the car, a passing ranger told us someone had set a rap route to the base. We wasted a lot of time looking for it but didn't see anything. If a route existed it would add a full * to the climb! Anyone know if this exists?
Here's our pitch by pitch:
- Approach: took over two hours. We didn't belay any of the exposed spots but did place a few pieces and clip into them as we went. The move up out of the gully was the crux of this section. I conjecture that a 70m rop...
more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes
By: John Peterson When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rope is there but the bottom half is missing! My partner started down the rope and was quite surprised to see nothing but a frayed end after going down the first 20 feet. We left what remains of the rope stacked on the ledge so nobody would have this happen to them.
When pulling our ropes it looked like a single 70m would get you to where you could swing right to a ledge.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Pink Laurel (5.9)
By: John Peterson When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think humidity adds a full grade to this climb. It seemed easy on a cool, crisp day and nearly impossible during summer heat.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
By: John Peterson When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I'm not trying to replace the sidebar. I had a spreadsheet sitting around the I made from Black Dick and I decided to use my super Emacs powers to put hyperlinks on it. Don't try this at home, kids! As far as I'm concerned it's nice to leave this here as a comment and keep the sidebar as is. But the admins can do as they want.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Andrew (5.4 PG13)
By: John Peterson When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best photo spots in the Gunks. If you can get someone to go out to the edge at the top of Twilight Zone you'll get a great shot of the last pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
By: John Peterson When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's the routes from left to right. This is all the routes in Black Dick, with the Williams ratings. I have a version that looks better with table formatting but the table tags got scrubbed.
Short and Simple: 5.7, G
Birthday Biscuit Boy: 5.9, G
Great Wall of China: 5.9, R
Keyhole: 5.7, G
Katzenjammer: 5.7, PG
The Brat Direct: 5.6, PG
Handy Andy: 5.7, G-PG
Easy Keyhole: 5.2, G
Black Fly: 5.5, G
Nice Crack Climb: 5.7, G
Astro Traveler: 5.10+, PG
Short Job: 5.4, G
69: 5.3, G
No Picnic:... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : City Lights (5.8-)
By: John Peterson When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The legality of tree stemming was always a hot topic at GunksFest (a now defunct climbing event that used to happen every Dec 26th). See http://www.tradgirl.com/gunks/paulina.htm for a picture of this highly questionable tactic.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff
By: John Peterson When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Copied from the RMF message board.
Author: Dave Boiano
Date: 6/1/2009 8:18 am EDT
I've spoken with three local home owners over the last two months, and they have all expressed a growing concern with the parking on Sheldon and Moore Hill Dr.
The most significant issue they raised was access for fire trucks and other emergency vehicles. Basically, park on one side of the road only. Litter and parking in front of mail boxes were the other things they mentioned. This may sound trivial an... more >>
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: John Peterson When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: http://www.archives.gov/publications/prologue/1985/spring/ch>>>>>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Left End Corners (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right - as I stated you can keep this at 5.6 by staying left on P2 and P3. Not sure it's worth having two different routes in the database is all.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers : ... : Photo
By: John Peterson When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to pound bolts in, go fix up the Guides Route raps.
I guarantee you have landowners permission over there!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : No Name Route (5.9)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new trail comes in from the west - you can recognize the start of this / Welcoming Party / Mint Jam as the lowest point of the buttress.
The rating on this depends on hand size. For big hands, this is a solid 10.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Questions and Answers (5.10)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is the best 5.8 I've done in Unaweep. The anchor at the top is good and it's easy to get back down. A 70 reaches the ground from the ledge. We used some bigger camalots (a #4 and #5) - not required but makes it easier to protect. An excellent pitch for a 5.8 leader.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : No Name 3 (5.8-)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did some serious gardening. Should be a ** route now!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The absolute best pro is the old Chouinard 6" tube chock. The taper matches the crack exactly.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Death by Chocolate (5.8+ R)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: April 2009: rap stations need some more attention. We didn't have enough webbing to deal with all of them. Adding a second ring to these would make them even more friendly. Some of the hangers were loose.
A great route. The crux was the easiest part - right at the nice shiny bolts. The long runouts on 5.6 were the real crux - takes a little nerve! We didn't use any wires. No cams bigger that #2 camalot. I'd go for about 6 camalots (a couple of small ones, .5, .75, 1, 2). Tricams ... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Verachocha (5.10b/c)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First time I did this I thought I was having an off day - the next time I decided it was an off climb. The crux (fixed nut) is pretty burly and not particularly pleasant. First pitch is OK though. We were looking at a traverse left from the belay to Dual Reality above the bolt - that might make a nice route that stays below 5.10.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Shriveled Penis (5.11)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It may be tough but it's never hard!
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Pipeline Wall : Skylight Arete (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rap off.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff
By: John Peterson When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Come on now, things aren't that bad. The parking over on Sheldon is legal and gives you good access to the cliff. There's plenty to climb there even without fixed anchors. It's definitely the best place for a lead climber in the state.
Placing anchors at the top of the cliff is allowed under the conservation agreement. The real issue is the continued vandalism at the cliff - the few bolts that are there getting repeatedly chopped. I can't speak for the current situation, but the foremost p... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Firebird (5.7)
By: John Peterson When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route! Ben has been adding more so there's now plenty to do if you head up to this area.
The rap down the 2nd pitch was exactly long enough with 60m ropes.
I'd unrope at the top of P2 - there's really no need to belay P3 up or down.
Don't bother with a cam - it was way too easy to need one plus we didn't see a placement.
Really big thanks to Ben and Maura for these great routes!
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