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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : North Summit Direct (5.8)
By: John Kear When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is definitely a lot of room for interpretations and personal taste when giving star ratings. I think many things have to be taken into account.
1. History (so even though something like the SW Ridge of the Needle isn't the highest rock quality the history, adventure, length and prominent of the line bump it up a star or two)
2. Length and or continuous nature.
3. Rock quality
4. Esthetics and quality of the climbing
So, for something like the NW ridge of the thumb... It gets a star for ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag
By: John Kear When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reed, any idea where your route on Chaos Crag went. I would love to resurrect a good multi-pitch 5.6-5.7.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : North Summit Direct (5.8)
By: John Kear When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, there seems to be a little discrepancy on the star ratings. Three stars means a great route (ie unbelievable climbing, perfect stone, very esthetic). I have a warm place in my heart for north summit direct, i've climbed it three times, but it is not three stars, IMO one at best.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : El Paisano : Unusual Suspects (5.8)
By: John Kear When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The photo Bill posted is the start of Unusual Suspects. Exactly where you want to start the route. I'm glad my description led you right to the start. Do this route, it is surprisingly good. Maybe worth three stars?
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Mexican Breakfast Formation : Tarantula (5.10b)
By: John Kear When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done Tarantula a couple of times and always gone the way Mick's guide describes the route, exciting 11-, but a quality line for sure, definitely recommended.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: John Kear When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill, the terrain from procrastination down to the good part of the fletcher trail is OK a little scrambly in places and maybe a little trashing through the bush but not bad. Someone cleared the trail fairly well 2-3 years back with saw and pruners probably in order to haul big wall gear to the base. The trail up to the base of Procrasty was great then. A party was also hard at work last winter trying to finish a new route before the closure, so the trail was probably good as of late Feb this y... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (10) Werepig (5.11b/c)
By: John Kear When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Visited the Monster Wall for the first time yesterday. Wow! What an amazing discovery. The routes are excellent in an absolutely ideal setting. We especially enjoyed Werepig, Pegasus, and Cyclops. Top shelf climbing for NM for sure and pretty damn good compared to just about anywhere. Nice Work!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Slot : Heat Stroke (5.10c)
By: John Kear When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent addition to the wall. Great climbing in the beginning and the end with a short section of less classic climbing in the middle. Maybe a little heavy cleaning would make this a four star route too. Then again the hollow flakes at mid height do add some character.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: John Kear When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route in the winter of 94', we wore our vibram sole boots figuring that's how the first ascent was done so we should do the same. I don't remember much about the route other than some fairly tough chimney climbing and loose rock/poor pro. Oh and having to remove a fair amount of cactus from my wife's backside after she sat in a barrel cactus while belaying on the summit. Definitely a historical ascent in the Sandias for the Hammack Cundiff team.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Halfbreed (5.10a/b)
By: John Kear When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt what did you think of the protection? Did the route seem too runout in places? Comments from the 3rd ascent made me think we should add another bolt or two on the second and third pitches. I would prefer to leave it as is but at the same time it's super good rock and I'd like it to be a route most people can enjoy.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: John Kear When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin, let us know when you finish the new route. It sounds like it could be great fun. It is certainly a striking line. I look forward to trying it when ya'll are done.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Insane Clown Posse (5.12d)
By: John Kear When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad to see someone actually repeat this route. I figured a bolted sport route on good rock would have taken less than 8 years to get a second ascent. Good job Lee for buckin' up!
As to Lee's comments about the route, the crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and feels about V6, really just a short boulder problem. The upper section is less steep but not truly slabby just less steep than the lower crux. The upper crux section is quite a bit easier probably 11d/12a still hard but a lot easie... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: John Kear When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route twice now. It is very good. Pitches 1 and 4-6 are just about as good as it gets for Sandias climbing. Pitch 1 is the crux for sure and P6 feels a letter grade or two easier. This route is a must do for those climbing at this grade in the Sandias.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : ... : Photo
By: John Kear When: May 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is actually a crack/seam behind the yellow line in the picture. It protects relatively well with small cams and nuts. This pitch is about 10a/b if you traverse in from the right to the first bolt. There is a direct lieback flake start that is 10+.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : ... : Photo
By: John Kear When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line in the photo IS NOT Westeron Wynde. The line in the photo is the first pitch of Cabron. WW follows the dark uninviting corner to the right. The Cabron pitch is however a much nicer way to start this climb.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: John Kear When: Nov 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In answer to Steve's inquiry about the new bolt on the west face of the Chimney; The route is called Smoke on the Horizon II 5.11b. I climbed the route for the first time in 02 or 03 without the bolt and didn't climb it clean then. I went back with Allen Aiken in the summer of 04 and put in the bolt and tried to clean the route up a little but it struck me as too scruffy to become something many people would want to do, but it has been freed cleanly. I never got around to telling ma... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Liar King (5.10+ X)
By: John Kear When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I thought this route was rated 5.9 now that its getting a 5.10+ X rating I have to admit I'm intrigued. I would really like to check this route out but I'm not completely clear where it goes from the description. Some of the features described I'm very familiar with. The pitch 1 5.8OW is Second Coming then to anchors on Rapture, sure I'm still with you. Pitch 2 is where the confusion comes but I think I understand where you are talking about. Pitch 3 sounds like you're left of Second Co... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : The Promise Land (5.12c)
By: John Kear When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Promise Land can be rapped with one 70m rope. In order to rap the 8th pitch and 4th pitch the 1st man down needs to swing left and place a little gear and or clip fixed stuff clipping the rope in as they go along in order to make the hard traverses to the left. The 2nd person down than lets the 1st man, now at the belay, help pull him left in order to gain the next station. A little tom foolery but it is possible if needed.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : The Promise Land (5.12c)
By: John Kear When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Promise Land is Grade V not IV. If Rainbow Dancer gets a V, TPL is much more sustained and longer. I think the sustained nature and general seriousness of the route and its location justify a higher level of commitment even if the belays are fixed. Only the strongest of parties will be able to pull this route off in daylight hours.
It's also good to see the route here, I guess I waited too long to post it myself, but thanks Lee for your effort. The info looks correct for the most part i... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Westeron Wynde (5.9)
By: John Kear When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts on the first pitch are not on Westeron Wynde. It is a variation pitch that we thought was a first ascent in 2002 or so. As it turns out the line had already been climbed by Kevin Jaramillo a few years earlier without any bolts. He and I have talked about the existence of these bolts and possibly removing them since they are not circa the FA. One way or the other the bolts remain for now. It is a nice pitch one way or the other and probably harder than 5.9 as Chuck and Tamara sugge... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Liar King (5.10+ X)
By: John Kear When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know what Liar King is but it is not the route you describe above. The route described by Nick is Second Coming and Andrew describes a variation of Second Coming. The route is a long established classic and I've been climbing Second Coming the way you describe Liar King for 18 years. I have done the route 30+ times and what you describe is certainly not anything new.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Sapien (5.12c)
By: John Kear When: May 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route definitely feels more sustained now with the missing jug and heel hooking ledge gone between the 1st and second bolts. The second clip is sort of cruxy now. Perhaps now a little closer to the original 12d rating.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Clovis Hunter (5.12a/b)
By: John Kear When: May 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of May 1 the 4th bolt is missing on Clovis Hunter. This makes the route a definite ground fall if you fall off the crux. Hopefully it will get replaced soon as this is one of finest 12s in Diablo. I'm not sure how or why the bolt is gone. I'm not sure when I'll be back so hopefully one of the locals with a drill will fix the situation.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Garden Party (5.9)
By: John Kear When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It sounds like George was on Garden party from his description. Alam, it seems you were quite far to the right of Garden party. The belay for Ghost Rider must be 40ft right of where GP goes straight up. I'm glad people are doing this route. A few years ago I cleaned and pruned the route to encourage traffic but as of last spring it had become overgrown again. Next time I'm over there I'll do some more cleaning and bring a camera and post a picture here.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Fin : Exhibition Wall (5.10b PG13)
By: John Kear When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock is quite good on this route. It has cleaned up well over the last 10 years or so. The pro is good and the climbing is steep. It is one of the best single pitch 5.10s in the Sandias. There are a couple of old pins on the route that are... well, not so good. Back them up, there are good gear placements available.
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