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Location: SD : Photo
By: John Gunnels When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Raspberry Rocks?
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Location: SD : Photo
By: John Gunnels When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NOW I recognize it. EXCELLENT!
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Location: SD : Photo
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot! What route?
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Of Quartz It Goes (5.7)
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the Black Hills Climbing Coalition contacted the first ascent party and were given permission to add bolts to this route. Thinking there were 12 or 13 total now. VERY well protected!
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: John Gunnels When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Being a Tower local is, in fact, sometimes difficult in June.
During the Climbing Management Plan process, I was serving as the "Grand Poo-Bah" of the NE Wyoming Climbing Club. From day one, the vast majority of locals supported the plan... and some even took part in the initial "Cross Cultural Education" functions the acting Superintendent coordinated between Native American Tribal Elders and climbers.
My... how times change.
Original "Marketing Strategy": CROSS CULTURAL EDUCATION and th... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: John Gunnels When: Apr 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry I wasn't more specific. Anchors ARE intact... but I thought there were chains or webbing at one time.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6)
By: John Gunnels When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did Lander yesterday with a couple new climbers. No chains... no webbing. LOVE THE NEEDLES STYLE RAPPEL! GREAT experience for the newbs!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Katey's Route (5.8) : Photo
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is just right of Lander Turkey Shoot.
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Location: SD
By: John Gunnels When: Jun 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just met Paul 2 weeks ago in the Needles Eye parking lot. In the short time we spoke, it was clear to me that his reputation of being a GOOD MAN was accurate. His soft spoken nature and eagerness to share his passion for climbing was welcomed and appreciated. Wish I'd have met him years ago...
My wife and I will climb all this weekend in the Needles and do as many of Paul's routes as possible...
God Speed...
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Bowling Alley- aka Durrance... (5.5 PG13)
By: John Gunnels When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: WEAR A HELMET! This area is called the "Bowling Alley" for a very good reason! Regarding protection, the left crack will eat as many #2, #3 and #4 Camalots as you can beg, borrow or steal...
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some folks consider this final 18 ft of New Wave to be the "best hand crack on the planet"...
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : The Fan : Moonlight Rib (5.3 R)
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some routes just "get you". This one does it for me. Can't really explain why... maybe the exposure... maybe the moves...
I now have a Needles favorite...
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Two : East Face (5.6)
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful summit... I think I could see my house back in Gillette...
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Katey's Route (5.8)
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My wife just led this route yesterday. Several variations that you can put together make this quite fun. Only 5 bolts on the route with the top being quite run out... but the final 45 feet is very easy.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Hitching Post : Hitching Post (5.2)
By: John Gunnels When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful summit... excellent protection!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Devils Tower National Monum... : Photo
By: John Gunnels When: Jul 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting facts about the photo on the cover of this guide.
1. No protection in the crack. Todd had soloed the route.
2. Both climbers in the photo are deceased.
Miss ya Jim & Todd...
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Conn Diagonal (5.7)
By: John Gunnels When: Jun 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't say enough about this route. EVERYONE should do it at LEAST once.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : School's Out (5.10+) : Photo
By: John Gunnels When: Mar 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the bode of confidence, Ty... but YOU'RE the man...
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Carl's Face (5.10c)
By: John Gunnels When: Nov 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Danny Rosen & Dennis Horning, I believe.
NOTE: I was with the route's namesake, Carl Coy, the day this route was bolted. We were on our way to McCarthy North when we noticed the bolting in progress. Carl voiced his feelings on bolting a face that had been a top rope problem for quite some time... with two beautiful cracks on each side. The debate contined for five or ten... then we went on our way. Next thing we know, Carl's Face was in the book...
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Pseudo- Wiessner (5.8)
By: John Gunnels When: Oct 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A VERY nice route with good protection. Don't forget your #4!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Sundance (5.7)
By: John Gunnels When: Oct 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack protects very well. A good alternative to Durrance for those with experience.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Warm Up Too (5.7)
By: John Gunnels When: Oct 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little dirty toward the top.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Toy Boat 2 : Life Vest Made of Lead (5.4)
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: True... not EVERY route needs to be bolted. However, keep in mind the tourists that occasionally need to try out their new Reeboks...
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Toy Boat 2 : Unknown (5.7)
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of this route is O Positive. Very fun route.
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Location: SD : Meat Packing Plant : Unamed 5.4 : Round House and Running (5.10)
By: John Gunnels When: Sep 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never heard of a 60 ft. Grade II route. Old guy rules say approach time doesn't count. You must have spent more time sun tanning than you did climbing! Silly little FABIO... or was it FARRAH?
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