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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : After The Fall: aka Totally... (5.9)
By: John Bradford When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice route, would have liked to #2 camalots, and only had one, but lots of gear options as noted previously. Airy moves and good jamming.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: John Bradford When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up here on the 31st (Sunday) and noted all of the hangers are missing from this route. The studs are still there, just no hangers. No hangers were missing from any of the other routes.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Nosferatu (5.10b)
By: John Bradford When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still cleaning up, but not too bad. I pulled several loose rocks out at the first crux. There are good stances for all the clips.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : North Ridge (5.8)
By: John Bradford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very good but not great climb, interesting only for the novelty of the chimney pitch. That said though, the 5th pith (5.8 corner)to the summit is excellent. It is possible to descend into the Black Joe Drainage on the east side of the peak, from the notch after the third rappel. Keep bearing to the left as you descend, aiming for the snow fields. This was a great hike out; skirting the northern buttress of Haystack to reurn to our Deep Lake camp. I have attached photos of all of... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: John Bradford When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 3rd pitch is a full 60 meters to the large ledge just below the summit pitch. This may be a better belay that the lower one, if you want to take a bit of gear. The rap anchors are ten feet to the right of the top belay.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Scream Machine AKA Coffee a... (5.10a R)
By: John Bradford When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possible to place a #2 camalot in the hole below the first bolt on the midway ledge. For the faint at heart....
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Donini's Crack (5.10b)
By: John Bradford When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little bit of a sandbag? I should get frequent flyer miles for this one.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tribal Boundaries (5.10a)
By: John Bradford When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on Saturday, as good as ever, though the 6th or 7th bolt was a spinner (can't remember which) requiring one extra mini move to nail the bastard.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Witchhunt (5.10a)
By: John Bradford When: Mar 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't say I agree with a 5.8 rating, it certainly feels harder than that, though everything through the roof is extremely positive, the trick is staying on the face and not cheating the corner. This and Salem's Lot are a good quick outing when the water is low. PLus, there are not too many more pleasant settings on a hot summer day.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Intelligient Life Form (5.8)
By: John Bradford When: Mar 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is my least favorite climb at the Stone. Hardly worth the effort getting to it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Burning Bits (5.10b)
By: John Bradford When: Mar 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this last week for the first time. Some medium sized gear for the moves to the last bolt would have beed good. I had a bit of a pump, and felt run out. Maybe it was just me and a new season. The initial moves were not hard, I clipped the first bolt on the 10a to the right.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Mt. Slesse : Photo
By: John Bradford When: Feb 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The prominent spine in the middle of the photo provides access to the Bypass Glacier. From the top of the bowl, one can just pick out the line that allows access to the Northeast Buttress, and bypasses the first 6 pitches (NE Buttress Direct). The year I climbed this (2005) both glaciers had slid, an increasingly common phenomenon in our years of global warming. This allowed an easy walk from the propeller cairn (top of the wooded knoll, foreground)across the bedrock to the climb.
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Location: John Bradford : Climbing : Photo
By: John Bradford When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo by Harvey Miller
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Location: John Bradford : Climbing : Photo
By: John Bradford When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo by Harvey Miller
Pitch 6 of the Squamish Buttress, 5.10c
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Submachine (5.11a)
By: John Bradford When: Nov 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this yesterday, and there were still a few sluggish wasps on the mineral deposits! I did like this climb, it really catered to my style of climbing, so for me; felt easier than 11a. A good route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: John Bradford When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have to agree with the above. Make sure you take enough gear. Nothing wrong with hanging if you need to rest. Rating is very dependent on hand size in my opinion. I would say no move is harder that a 9, but the sustained nature and length make this a 10a
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Bunny Slope (5.9)
By: John Bradford When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: .75 camalots protect the opening moves.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Ed's World (5.10a/b)
By: John Bradford When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start on top of the large rock in a finger crack and move right at the ledge. Small gear to # 1 camalots through the middle and top, with some smaller gear at the top as well.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall : Unamed 5.8 (5.8)
By: John Bradford When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: very short!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall : Flower Power (5.10)
By: John Bradford When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very easy to get a rope stuck on this climb. The constricion just below the belay but above the roof is the crux to pulling. Best to walk as far left as possible and give it a good yank. A very good climb though, with a nice sequence through the roof and great jams.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall : Batteries Not Included (5.9+)
By: John Bradford When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this climb. #2 Camalots to start then nothing but 3's. Crux is about in the middle. Anchors are suspect in my opinion.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Moral Bells Arete (5.8)
By: John Bradford When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry; did this yesterday and I am just not sure that it adds much to the climb. OK, but easy climbing with all the good stuff still below the original anchors. Just my opinion, I could be wrong.....
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Sockdollager (5.9)
By: John Bradford When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun jamming and liebacks. Lots of wasps on the mineral deposits until the climb was in the shade.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Straight Talk (5.10a)
By: John Bradford When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but excellent jams. A big swing for the second if the leader traverses to the chains. A gear anchor is possible, and the walk off is quite simple.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: John Bradford When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good climb, I counted seven clips. Doesn't feel 10A.
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