Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact John Wilder

John Wilder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 256
Total Points: 2,392
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4835 | Routes 123 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 917 | Posts 1765 | Stars 1136 | Ratings 867
Page 2 of 37.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Chasm : Into the Light (5.10)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This thing is still super crispy, be really careful while climbing it. The falls are safe, though, so hopefully over time it will clean up. Might find its way into 5.11 over time, though...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The black mark near the upper bit of chalk is the shoe rubber from where the old start hold used to be.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Virgil and Beatrice (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: really good, but will almost certainly be a 5.10 when it finishes shedding.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Celestial Spheres (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: super fun. one of the best on the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : One Hundred Cantos (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: really really good route on good rock. The three 5.10s on this wall are all pretty great (and all feel about the same grade).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Three Mouths, Three Faces (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If there was a 5.9 way up this, I didnt find it. I did, however, take two huge whips thanks to giant holds breaking off. 5.10 something, imho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Dis (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: be really careful on the upper part of this route- crispy holds and that corner lurking underneath you make this one pretty exciting.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Environmental Terrorist (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If you want to keep from decking on this one, make sure to belay from the upper ledge, not the ground. if you fell on the initial slab (which is possible- its pretty insecure), you'd definitely ground out if your belayer is on the ground.

i found this to be a pretty unnerving climb- solid 5.10 climbing above ledges for the first 4 bolts. Definitely be solid at the grade on this one, imho.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Sendero Luminoso (5.10b R)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty amazing that such a wild and aesthetic feature has a 5.10 running right up it- and a great climb at that.

I also noticed the old clips were broken (i think this was done intentionally so people would use the new mussys instead of the old ones)- but damn if they weren't sharp and hanging down near the rope when threaded through the new mussys. I've noticed this is something common in the gorge when those types of clips are replaced with mussys and to be honest, I'd really like to see a b... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall
By: John Wilder When: Dec 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, the best way to get to this wall is to go to Civ, then go up the gully with the three tens in it and out the top. Cut across about level with that for a hundred yards or so to Dante's Wall. The Chasm is a good landmark to keep you headed in the right direction.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Inferno (5.12a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Cruxin! Super fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Divine Comedy (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun, well worth doing. Really good rock for such a young route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Inferno (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun climb, thanks to Mike for finding and bolting it. Pretty thin, similar in effort to other short 12a's in the park, imho.

That said, if you're too short to make one of the spans I made, it would add at least 3 moves and a much harder clip to the route, for what it's worth. Description is accurate, and if you're at your limit, stick clip the first two for safety, the second bolt is the hardest clip,imho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch one is not correct- it starts further up the gully than marked in this photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Olive Oil is actually mis-marked here- you can't see the route from the trailhead. Rose Tower proper is partially visible underneath the 'Jackrabbit Buttress' text. Olive Oil climbs the southeastern aspect of Rose Tower and is thus not visible at all from the trailhead.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Love Stinks (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this with an old 70m today and it barely made it ledge to ledge, no way could we have belayed from the ground. A fresh 70m should be fine, but probably best to belay from the ledge (single belay bolt) if your rope is old.

That said, mega fun pitch. Well worth doing!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hammered (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun route for sure. I'd recommend using a regular draw on the first bolt off the ledge, then back clean the second draw after clipping the 3rd to reduce drag. Done this way, you don't risk a ledge fall if you blow the first roof.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hungover (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: What a great pitch, three distinct cruxes provide a good challenge for the 5.11 leader. Moving past the first roof is the easiest of them, imho. The sting in the tail going for the chains was my favorite part, no free ride to the chains on this one!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Finally did this again over the weekend- super fun. With a 70m, we did this in 7 pitches to the terrace on Solar Slab, and could have done it in 6 if we had linked the first two pitches. Single rack to a #4 with doubles in green and purple camalots and a set of nuts was just right if you're comfortable at the grade.

The route still needs more traffic to clean up the 5.7/5.8 pitches, so do tread lightly, but otherwise it's just as fun as I remember it being!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Deimos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'd definitely take a #5 C4 for this route- it was nice for the belay and certainly nice for the last pitch- especially if you're breaking into the grade.

Really good, no harder than 5.9, imho- the crux is basically a stemming problem with really good feet. Think three dimensionally on this one and you'll be fine- try to thug through this and you'll struggle for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Monkey Bar Boulder : Classic Monkey (V6)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Never liked the start of this thing- if you stand start off the big sidepull jug its a fun, yet challenging v5ish thing. This also avoids the subterranean groveling.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Pockets of Dirt (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the heads up on the bolt. The rock on this one is iffy at best- finding good rock to replace the second to last pro bolt last year was tough- and i'm not optimistic about the life span of that hole.

I'll try to get out to it or let someone else know about it and maybe try a 5/8" 5-piece or a glue-in and see how it holds up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (Full) (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are several descent options off Mescalito- two that I know of off the north side, one off the south. The north side options are either double 60m rappels (or what you did with a 70m) or a walk-off with no rappels (tricky, but doable- aim for the second fork high in the drainage- you come down about 150' up the left hand side of the fork).

The south side is pretty well cairned as I understand it- Branch Whitney and crew use it for their hikes, so it may be doable with no rope or a single ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Fortuitous (5.10d PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route with a single 70m and comfortably rappelled down to the mid-station right of the route and then to the ground. I didn't see an anchor out left and considering the rightward traversing nature of the route, I'd be surprised that an anchor out left would be safer than the one straight down from the top of the route.

I will, of course, defer to locals on this one- I can only relay my own experience on this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag : November Daze (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: rope stretch and the length of your anchor kit aside, when a route is marked 100', it is usually done so to indicate a 60m is sufficient for lowering/rappelling, you should be fine.


Page 2 of 37.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!