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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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John Wilder
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Point Rank: # 257
Total Points: 2,473
Last Year: 98
Last 30 Days: 5
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 5097 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 947 | Posts 1929 | Stars 1174 | Ratings 892
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : East Face : Diet Delight (5.8+)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: Super fun route- really high quality and worth the short hike. Three really high quality pitches, difficulty hovered in the 5.7-5.8 range the entire way. Take extra finger sized cams for this one.

Probably best to rappel the route to the right of Diet rather than take that gully. Its a slog and kind of sucky to get into, depending on where you drop in (higher is better).

The rap station for taking 3 single rope (70m) raps down from the top is about 20' above the top of this route, hidden in t... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: There's a known top-out for Geronimo that continues past the regular finish of the route (top of Pitch 4), and finishes up near the base of the Brownstone Wall. It's not considered part of the regular route, but it is an option for more adventurous parties. I believe its kind of heady 5.8/5.9.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders
By: John Wilder When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Calico Basin is considered a day use area. Officially, you're not supposed to be in Kraft after dark and your vehicle would be subject to a fine or being towed, depending on the residents mood and the responding officer.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: If you're both solid at 5.10, you'll have no problem simul-climbing this (and you should) if you're planning on Celtic Cracks or one of the other Labryinth wall routes. Bring a 70m line and you can put a piece in here and there where its needed. It protects nicely for the 5.7 climber.

The last bit you may want to actually belay (or at least stop a ways below to get some gear), as its the crux and actually requires you to pay attention.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.11d) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: The crux is above this part- he's off route a bit. The three holds that he's looking at is where he should be- and only about mid 5.11 to go through them on the way to the big jug above.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Saddle Up (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 13, 2016

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Comments: Really nice route, guys- I really enjoyed the whole thing.

The first pitch was super cool- wide stemming that's well protected into a cool cave and then onto the chockstone.

Second pitch- the start was casual with a bomber #2 that protected the easy step across and then easy gear that protects the spectacular crack above. Really engaging, thoughtful pitch- I thought it was 5.9 for sure. I linked two and three to the alcove belay, it seemed like the logical way, although it was probably ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Scent of the Ultraman (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: More information on the extent of the damage to this route can be found here:

Drilled Vandalism

If the person who did this sees this, we would all appreciate it if you did not use power tools to modify the rock on any existing route, or any new route. It is one of the highest precepts of climbing to take the rock as it exists and work to be up to the challenge it presents, no matter what the grade. If you are interested in route... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Blackened (5.12-)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Really hard set of moves right in the middle, with one particular standout. I'd agree not dynamic for most, but long is accurate. Be strong on crimps for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Fleeting Boldness (5.10- R)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: After Larry gave it a go, I went up to have a look. I bailed because I wasn't willing to lead up that pitch without any gear and we couldn't tell if there was any way up and off it from there- I was worried we'd get to the top of that thing and have to downclimb it. It was a pretty daunting crack, as I recall. I climbed perhaps 50 or 60' up the pitch until the #6 tipped out and then ultimately down climbed to some point and lowered, i think. Really cool looking feature, I'm glad someone fi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: John Wilder When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: It is legal to pass on the loop road. It is not two lanes because in a few spots it's not wide enough, but passing safely is legal.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs
By: John Wilder When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: I haven't been down this since before the rappels were installed, and what a mess this thing has become. If I go back up there anytime soon, I'll take the appropriate hardware. If you're headed up and want 8 links for the first two stations, pm me and I'll donate them for you.

A few notes:

1) The first rap station needs links if its going to stay. That red and yellow tat is gross and needs to be chopped. Make sure you keep the rope left when you rappel, btw- the right side is a rope eater.

2)... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Doobie Dance (5.6)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Did this the other day finally (I can't believe I've never been to this cliff)- super fun climb that protects really well.

I'd definitely recommend this for a newer leader so long as they had a solid selection of gear. One or two 5.6 moves on it and the rest is a cruise.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: There's a nice little 5.8/5.9 thing directly below Rosencranz that we TR'd when we did the route above. We thought about bolting it, but the entire upper 30' section is hollow, so we left it as a TR.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Temple Crag : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: This is Second Lake, but definitely beautiful!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: A couple notes after having done this route twice (half the first time, the full the second).

1) The approach is weird, and none of the maps/beta/info I've seen really explain it well. After biffing it badly the first time and more or less hitting the mark the second, the best beta for when to turn off the Cathedral trail is in the forest AFTER the slabs, just before you head up to Cathedral. There's a creek crossing there. Cross the creek and follow the Budd Lake trail almost to the lake, the... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : Mous-Ka-Tears (WI4- PG13) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: NOPE.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: The route actually goes up the left side of the photo- it climbs the crack just out of frame. The route then jogs right at the upper center of the photo and then heads up and right to the cracks above.

The corner on the right is a variation and clocks in at around 5.8/5.9.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Actually, this is a variation to Solar Slab and clocks in around 5.8/5.9. The route proper is about 10' to the left in an easy crack on the face.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Deep Space (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the old piton-as memory serves, there are actually several fixed pins on the route- the one in question is above the crux chimney, but below more hard climbing (also 5.9), and it's certainly likely that if whomever placed it got that far, they could have quite possibly summited as the spooky climbing is behind you at that point, although the real route finding begins not far above that piton.

Below the piton there are, if i recall correctly, enough drilled angles to get down from the ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: Texas finishes at the bolted belay at the top of pitch 12 of Lone Star (on the big ramp above the crux pitch of Lone Star)

This is, imho, why the link up is so appealing. You avoid the scary crux (on terrible rock) of lone star in favor of the crux of Texas which looks vastly more appealing and the rock looks bulletproof.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caustic Cock (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Got on the route post-break yesterday and it's definitely harder, although I don't think it's 5.11c for me. It might be for shorter folks.

Two significant holds broke this season after someone climbed it after a rain-

1) the small crimp before the clipping jug at the last pro bolt is now gone, forcing a pretty big move to the jug. If you're taller, a kneebar solves the problem, if you're shorter, though, you'll likely have to do a pretty big toss off the insecure side pull below. Saw lots of... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9-) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Dude, when you get old, your skin gets thin and easily damaged. Jorge is just protecting his skin- he's been wearing tape on climbs for ages now. He certainly doesn't need it for lack of skill.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Storm Rising (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: @Justin- nope, it's always been wicked hard for the grade. it's a fairly well known sandbag for those who have actually been out to the Holiday wall.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : What's Its Face (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Not a good route, and with the terrible belay stance, one wonders why it was bolted at all.

The second bolt is literally underneath the jug you really want to use- I found it near impossible to not rest my palm on the hanger while clipping. Not sure how solid the rock is at owens, but i'd never drill a bolt that shallow in sandstone.

The last bolt is...really far to the right, and while you want to clip it, it may be better not to? I'm not sure. Frankly, the anchor should probably be where the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Lalaland (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Definitely do not need any gear on this one- you can easily stick clip the second bolt if the first is too low for your liking.

IMHO, this route is harder than its neighbor, but just as good. Pretty amazing chunk of rock to produce two really long, amazing lines like that.

Word to the wise- extend the 2nd and 3rd draws after the roof to reduce drag. I used 24" runners and was pretty happy overall. A longish draw on the first bolt over the roof helps too.


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