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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact John Wilder

John Wilder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 255
Total Points: 2,469
Last Year: 95
Last 30 Days: 2
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 5059 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 944 | Posts 1903 | Stars 1169 | Ratings 888
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stra...

Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stratocaster...

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Deluxe (5.11a/b)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Bourbon Street Topo

Bourbon Street Topo

NV : Red Rock : ... : Bourbon Street (5.8)

Oct 7, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Crown Royal Area

Crown Royal Area

NV : Red Rock : ... : Gentle Ben's Afternoon Deli... (5.8)

Sep 11, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Mudterm Area Topo

Mudterm Area Topo

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mudterm Area

Apr 14, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an ...

This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an amazing climb well worth the hike!

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Fox (5.10+)

Feb 8, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete : North ArĂȘte (5.6)
By: John Wilder When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty fun, although I will say that if this had a longer approach or didn't have the crystal bands up high, I probably wouldn't recommend what is essentially four moves of technical 5.5-ish climbing paired with a fairly serious descent.

We did not go to the summit, but instead dropped down the first gully at the start of the ridge. This was probably harder climbing than coming up, but still pretty tame by alpine descent standards.

All in all, the cryst... more >>


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag
By: John Wilder When: Jul 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: For those who are not 100% sure where this cliff is located- Starter Crag is less than 25 feet from the road- you can actually see the bolts on the cliff as you drive by it. It doesn't look like much at first, but the routes are extremely high quality and not as short as you may think.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Relax and Stem (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Brilliant climb- probably the single best moderate pitch on the mountain.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Spiny Norman (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Beautiful route- one of the best at the crag- solid rock, fun moves, and very well bolted

Due to the super techy start, most will want a stick-clip for the first bolt.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Ridiculous (5.4)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Anchor is fine now. Rings on it.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Baby Steps (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route and the two newer routes are the routes to do here for sure. Get on it!


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : First of the Year (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good route, probably the hardest at the crag. I don't think it's 5.11, but be prepared to do a real move or two on it early on.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Gala Tumble (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun climb, really solid at 5.10 and the bolts are further apart than they look from below. A bit of extra finger to hand sized pieces would probably make someone pushing their limit feel better.

If you have a 70m, tie a knot in the end and lower your partner to the ledges below Supergrinder, you can just make it if you climb up a bit. Then you can down climb without a rope or other stuff dangling off you.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Watching Banana's Bend (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: May 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Since there's alot of routes up here that are right next to each other, here's a bit more beta.

Head up onto the ledge that is at the base of the Screeching Wall and move left- climbing up a bit to a two bolt belay at the base of a black/grey chunk of rock. The bolts are a bit left of a tree stump.

Watching Bananas Bend goes up the line of bolts for two bolts, then steps right on small holds with big feet, to another bolt. Follow this line up to a ledge, then step left and clip a bolt. Follo... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Hiking With Howie (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Slightly contrived at the top. Whoever rebolts this in the future should move the last two bolts about 2' to the right since that's where the climb is.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: For those unfamiliar with Red Rock- tying a knot can cause more trouble than its worth due to the nature of the rock.

Being aware of the risks/terrain/etc and mitigating for those risks is what every climber should do- like many other things people claim you should 'always' do, tying knots in the end of your rope is situational. This situation, imho, isn't one of them.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Worker bees are female, actually. Drones are male, but they don't do any work for the colony other than mate with the Queen.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, but tie a knot in the end of your rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Where Egos Dare (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun climb with a devious crux. Excited to get back to this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Coco Crag is just the north side of Red Springs Rock.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Sacred Trust : Office Party (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Consistent climbing on good rock for a few hundred feet at a moderate grade with a killer top out- what's not to like?

I thought this route was fantastic and a great intro to the area.

With a 70m line, you'll want to link the first three pitches (probably 20+ draws), then the next two, and then the final corner on its own if you want to get up and down quick. If you're not in a rush, pitch it out (except you should link 1+2, since combined they're barely 30m).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : Redbud Canyon : Mach 5 (5.10)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Just right of Good Intentions- the runnel section on this climb is easier than its neighbor, but the face above has a punchy moment with hard to see holds. Once you see them, it's easy to move through the crux.

This route, along with its neighbor, would both be easier if they were in a popular area with lots of chalk. Part of the awesomeness of both routes is that they are not.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : Redbud Canyon : Good Intentions (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: To help with the description above.

This climb starts on a slightly recessed face with two bolted lines going up obvious runnels in grey rock for about 40' or so to a ledge. Good Intentions is the left hand line (look for an obvious pocket above the first bolt).

A stick clip is helpful, as the first bolt is a bit high and you're getting into the business of the climb as you approach it.

Climb the runnels- very interesting, technical climbing for 4 bolts to the ledge. From there, move left an... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: No overhangs on that pitch. Wherever it looks hard, just step left or right. I think this pitch is rated 5.1 in the book.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : Beautiful Bastard (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A great pitch- super fun climbing with really good protection for most of it. I wanted a double set of finger sized stuff for the first pitch (blue and grey camalots in particular), and a good selection of medium/large stoppers to supplement.

This area is pretty old school- I thought the first pitch was 5.10a, 5.9 is a bit of a sandbag in relation to most areas in Red Rock.

For reference- there is now a good two bolt anchor with chains on top the first pitch- you dont have to use the janky old... more >>


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