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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 7 mins ago
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John Wilder
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Point Rank: # 256
Total Points: 2,392
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 4836 | Routes 123 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 917 | Posts 1766 | Stars 1136 | Ratings 867
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Scent of the Ultraman (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: More information on the extent of the damage to this route can be found here:

Drilled Vandalism

If the person who did this sees this, we would all appreciate it if you did not use power tools to modify the rock on any existing route, or any new route. It is one of the highest precepts of climbing to take the rock as it exists and work to be up to the challenge it presents, no matter what the grade. If you are interested in route... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Blackened (5.12-)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Really hard set of moves right in the middle, with one particular standout. I'd agree not dynamic for most, but long is accurate. Be strong on crimps for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Fleeting Boldness (5.10- R)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: After Larry gave it a go, I went up to have a look. I bailed because I wasn't willing to lead up that pitch without any gear and we couldn't tell if there was any way up and off it from there- I was worried we'd get to the top of that thing and have to downclimb it. It was a pretty daunting crack, as I recall. I climbed perhaps 50 or 60' up the pitch until the #6 tipped out and then ultimately down climbed to some point and lowered, i think. Really cool looking feature, I'm glad someone fi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: John Wilder When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: It is legal to pass on the loop road. It is not two lanes because in a few spots it's not wide enough, but passing safely is legal.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs
By: John Wilder When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: I haven't been down this since before the rappels were installed, and what a mess this thing has become. If I go back up there anytime soon, I'll take the appropriate hardware. If you're headed up and want 8 links for the first two stations, pm me and I'll donate them for you.

A few notes:

1) The first rap station needs links if its going to stay. That red and yellow tat is gross and needs to be chopped. Make sure you keep the rope left when you rappel, btw- the right side is a rope eater.

2)... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Doobie Dance (5.6)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Did this the other day finally (I can't believe I've never been to this cliff)- super fun climb that protects really well.

I'd definitely recommend this for a newer leader so long as they had a solid selection of gear. One or two 5.6 moves on it and the rest is a cruise.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: There's a nice little 5.8/5.9 thing directly below Rosencranz that we TR'd when we did the route above. We thought about bolting it, but the entire upper 30' section is hollow, so we left it as a TR.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Temple Crag : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: This is Second Lake, but definitely beautiful!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: A couple notes after having done this route twice (half the first time, the full the second).

1) The approach is weird, and none of the maps/beta/info I've seen really explain it well. After biffing it badly the first time and more or less hitting the mark the second, the best beta for when to turn off the Cathedral trail is in the forest AFTER the slabs, just before you head up to Cathedral. There's a creek crossing there. Cross the creek and follow the Budd Lake trail almost to the lake, the... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : Mous-Ka-Tears (WI4- PG13) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: NOPE.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: The route actually goes up the left side of the photo- it climbs the crack just out of frame. The route then jogs right at the upper center of the photo and then heads up and right to the cracks above.

The corner on the right is a variation and clocks in at around 5.8/5.9.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Actually, this is a variation to Solar Slab and clocks in around 5.8/5.9. The route proper is about 10' to the left in an easy crack on the face.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Deep Space (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the old piton-as memory serves, there are actually several fixed pins on the route- the one in question is above the crux chimney, but below more hard climbing (also 5.9), and it's certainly likely that if whomever placed it got that far, they could have quite possibly summited as the spooky climbing is behind you at that point, although the real route finding begins not far above that piton.

Below the piton there are, if i recall correctly, enough drilled angles to get down from the ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: Texas finishes at the bolted belay at the top of pitch 12 of Lone Star (on the big ramp above the crux pitch of Lone Star)

This is, imho, why the link up is so appealing. You avoid the scary crux (on terrible rock) of lone star in favor of the crux of Texas which looks vastly more appealing and the rock looks bulletproof.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caustic Cock (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Got on the route post-break yesterday and it's definitely harder, although I don't think it's 5.11c for me. It might be for shorter folks.

Two significant holds broke this season after someone climbed it after a rain-

1) the small crimp before the clipping jug at the last pro bolt is now gone, forcing a pretty big move to the jug. If you're taller, a kneebar solves the problem, if you're shorter, though, you'll likely have to do a pretty big toss off the insecure side pull below. Saw lots of... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Dude, when you get old, your skin gets thin and easily damaged. Jorge is just protecting his skin- he's been wearing tape on climbs for ages now. He certainly doesn't need it for lack of skill.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Storm Rising (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: @Justin- nope, it's always been wicked hard for the grade. it's a fairly well known sandbag for those who have actually been out to the Holiday wall.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : What's Its Face (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Not a good route, and with the terrible belay stance, one wonders why it was bolted at all.

The second bolt is literally underneath the jug you really want to use- I found it near impossible to not rest my palm on the hanger while clipping. Not sure how solid the rock is at owens, but i'd never drill a bolt that shallow in sandstone.

The last bolt is...really far to the right, and while you want to clip it, it may be better not to? I'm not sure. Frankly, the anchor should probably be where the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Lalaland (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Definitely do not need any gear on this one- you can easily stick clip the second bolt if the first is too low for your liking.

IMHO, this route is harder than its neighbor, but just as good. Pretty amazing chunk of rock to produce two really long, amazing lines like that.

Word to the wise- extend the 2nd and 3rd draws after the roof to reduce drag. I used 24" runners and was pretty happy overall. A longish draw on the first bolt over the roof helps too.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: A fine route- very fun in general, and very doable for a flash/onsight attempt, imho.

Couple of notes in general:

1) Anchor condition- if you put your own draws on this thing, make sure you do not clip them into the hangers- there are several stud bolts sticking out near the chains that will rub on your draws. I ended up using the mussys against my preference, since it was the only safe way to run a TR through the existing anchor setup. This seems to be a common theme at Owens- many anchors I... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: The hanger on the 7th bolt has been replaced by a kind soul. For those climbing the route from here on out, please extend the draw you place on this bolt, as I suspect the reason it went missing is due to counter-clockwise drag over the roof by short draws.

Also, there are a couple stray studs sticking out at the anchor that can rub on your draws if you use your own kit. Set up your anchor with caution.

For those doing the anchor work in the area- a little keychain hacksaw and some epoxy patc... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: A brilliant route- perfectly protected, amazing movement, probably one of the best 5.11s i've done almost anywhere. In the Gorge, I think the only reason it doesn't get 5 stars is because its probably the shortest 5.11 as well, having 'only' 6 bolts...

I stick clipped the first bolt and would highly recommend anyone under 6' do the same (or use some gear)- the starting holds are very greasy and a fall while trying to clip the first bolt would not end well.

Well worth the hike for sure.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Grindrite (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Superb pitch- technical, long, sustained climbing with a very distinct crux right in the middle.

Best 5.11 in the Gorge? Well, if you're my height, its a contender for sure, but for those who are vertically challenged, I'd say its frustratingly difficult.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Lava Haul (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: One of the best sport pitches of 5.10 I've done anywhere. Really good and really glad I brought extra draws (and still had to backclean a couple bolts) and a 70m line.

On the grade side, the budding 5.10 leader will likely struggle on this one, so 5.10a seems light to me. It had my attention for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the last bolt- I debated a bit on the bolt placement there, as the climbing looked funky and it was hard to tell exactly which direction the climb came in from. I ultimately decided after doing the moves that you trend to the right before the last bolt and placed the bolt at a stance to accommodate people of any height. I did notice that there was a stance left of there that people might climb into, but ultimately decided that was off route based off the location of the original bolt o... more >>


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