Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact John Wilder

John Wilder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 252
Total Points: 2,460
Last Year: 103
Last 30 Days: 52
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4950 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 936 | Posts 1828 | Stars 1155 | Ratings 876
Page 7 of 198.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stra...

Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stratocaster...

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Deluxe (5.11a/b)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Bourbon Street Topo

Bourbon Street Topo

NV : Red Rock : ... : Bourbon Street (5.8)

Oct 7, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Crown Royal Area

Crown Royal Area

NV : Red Rock : ... : Gentle Ben's Afternoon Deli... (5.8)

Sep 11, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Mudterm Area Topo

Mudterm Area Topo

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mudterm Area

Apr 14, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an ...

This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an amazing climb well worth the hike!

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Fox (5.10+)

Feb 8, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Watching Banana's Bend (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: 9 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: Since there's alot of routes up here that are right next to each other, here's a bit more beta.

Head up onto the ledge that is at the base of the Screeching Wall and move left- climbing up a bit to a two bolt belay at the base of a black/grey chunk of rock. The bolts are a bit left of a tree stump.

Watching Bananas Bend goes up the line of bolts for two bolts, then steps right on small holds with big feet, to another bolt. Follow this line up to a ledge, then step left and clip a bolt. Follo... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Hiking With Howie (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Slightly contrived at the top. Whoever rebolts this in the future should move the last two bolts about 2' to the right since that's where the climb is.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: For those unfamiliar with Red Rock- tying a knot can cause more trouble than its worth due to the nature of the rock.

Being aware of the risks/terrain/etc and mitigating for those risks is what every climber should do- like many other things people claim you should 'always' do, tying knots in the end of your rope is situational. This situation, imho, isn't one of them.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Worker bees are female, actually. Drones are male, but they don't do any work for the colony other than mate with the Queen.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, but tie a knot in the end of your rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Where Egos Dare (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun climb with a devious crux. Excited to get back to this one.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Coco Crag is just the north side of Red Springs Rock.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Sacred Trust : Office Party (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Consistent climbing on good rock for a few hundred feet at a moderate grade with a killer top out- what's not to like?

I thought this route was fantastic and a great intro to the area.

With a 70m line, you'll want to link the first three pitches (probably 20+ draws), then the next two, and then the final corner on its own if you want to get up and down quick. If you're not in a rush, pitch it out (except you should link 1+2, since combined they're barely 30m).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : Redbud Canyon : Mach 5 (5.10)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Just right of Good Intentions- the runnel section on this climb is easier than its neighbor, but the face above has a punchy moment with hard to see holds. Once you see them, it's easy to move through the crux.

This route, along with its neighbor, would both be easier if they were in a popular area with lots of chalk. Part of the awesomeness of both routes is that they are not.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : Redbud Canyon : Good Intentions (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: To help with the description above.

This climb starts on a slightly recessed face with two bolted lines going up obvious runnels in grey rock for about 40' or so to a ledge. Good Intentions is the left hand line (look for an obvious pocket above the first bolt).

A stick clip is helpful, as the first bolt is a bit high and you're getting into the business of the climb as you approach it.

Climb the runnels- very interesting, technical climbing for 4 bolts to the ledge. From there, move left an... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: No overhangs on that pitch. Wherever it looks hard, just step left or right. I think this pitch is rated 5.1 in the book.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Mud Spring Wing : Beautiful Bastard (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A great pitch- super fun climbing with really good protection for most of it. I wanted a double set of finger sized stuff for the first pitch (blue and grey camalots in particular), and a good selection of medium/large stoppers to supplement.

This area is pretty old school- I thought the first pitch was 5.10a, 5.9 is a bit of a sandbag in relation to most areas in Red Rock.

For reference- there is now a good two bolt anchor with chains on top the first pitch- you dont have to use the janky old... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin
By: John Wilder When: Mar 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Word on the street is that cars are being ticketed for parking in this area as of March 2016. Please contact the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition if you have any questions or want to help work toward re-opening this area to parking.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : East Face : Diet Delight (5.8+)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun route- really high quality and worth the short hike. Three really high quality pitches, difficulty hovered in the 5.7-5.8 range the entire way. Take extra finger sized cams for this one.

Probably best to rappel the route to the right of Diet rather than take that gully. Its a slog and kind of sucky to get into, depending on where you drop in (higher is better).

The rap station for taking 3 single rope (70m) raps down from the top is about 20' above the top of this route, hidden in t... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There's a known top-out for Geronimo that continues past the regular finish of the route (top of Pitch 4), and finishes up near the base of the Brownstone Wall. It's not considered part of the regular route, but it is an option for more adventurous parties. I believe its kind of heady 5.8/5.9.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders
By: John Wilder When: Mar 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Calico Basin is considered a day use area. Officially, you're not supposed to be in Kraft after dark and your vehicle would be subject to a fine or being towed, depending on the residents mood and the responding officer.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If you're both solid at 5.10, you'll have no problem simul-climbing this (and you should) if you're planning on Celtic Cracks or one of the other Labryinth wall routes. Bring a 70m line and you can put a piece in here and there where its needed. It protects nicely for the 5.7 climber.

The last bit you may want to actually belay (or at least stop a ways below to get some gear), as its the crux and actually requires you to pay attention.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.11d) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is above this part- he's off route a bit. The three holds that he's looking at is where he should be- and only about mid 5.11 to go through them on the way to the big jug above.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Saddle Up (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really nice route, guys- I really enjoyed the whole thing.

The first pitch was super cool- wide stemming that's well protected into a cool cave and then onto the chockstone.

Second pitch- the start was casual with a bomber #2 that protected the easy step across and then easy gear that protects the spectacular crack above. Really engaging, thoughtful pitch- I thought it was 5.9 for sure. I linked two and three to the alcove belay, it seemed like the logical way, although it was probably ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Scent of the Ultraman (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: More information on the extent of the damage to this route can be found here:

Drilled Vandalism

If the person who did this sees this, we would all appreciate it if you did not use power tools to modify the rock on any existing route, or any new route. It is one of the highest precepts of climbing to take the rock as it exists and work to be up to the challenge it presents, no matter what the grade. If you are interested in route... more >>


Page 7 of 198.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!