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Member Since: Jul 20, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact John Steiger

Point Rank: # 409
Total Points: 1,718
Last Year: 241
Last 30 Days: 14
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Steiger been climbing?










Contributions


All 869 | Routes 123 | Areas 4 | Photos 61 | Page Improvements | Comments 123 | Posts 8 | Stars 376 | Ratings 174
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Sales Pitch (5.10d PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: First three bolts replaced in summer 2016 with 3/8", 3.5" long 5-piece Rawls w/Fixe hangers. Fourth bolt inspected, deemed okay (though, as always, use your own judgment and climb at your own risk), but hanger replaced with Fixe. Chains installed on top, which also can be used by weanies (like me) to top rope Don't Judge a Book.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Don't Judge a Book by its C... (5.9+ R)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: This route is best appreciated through the lens of local history. For the first ascent, Bret led this on-sight, ground-up, and with a rudimentary rack (no microcams in 86). In those days Bret and other locals were probing their mental as well as physical limits, launching up untouched faces with little apparent protection and producing creations such as this, Pipeline Sequence, and Life Sentence, all led by Bret. After cajoling the story out of him, Bret humbly explained, "it w... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: This nice little crag is well worth the additional 5 minutes of talus from the furthest right routes on Challenges' West Face (cTr & Falling Apart). You'll find beefed up anchors and bolts, a new hardish line, and great views. Stays in the shade until mid-day, just as Lonely Challenge Wall is going into the shade (so by chasing the shade or sun one can make a day of it).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Buena Vista Wall : Viewmaster Arête (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Good catch L. Too old. I'll make the change.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : North Ridge (5.5 PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: This is well worth doing, but I think the better start is what I've called the Direct North Ridge (posted on the Talk Buttress page, which is where both the North Ridge as shown in the Gottman guide and DNR actually start; BTW, North Ridge is not on Dead Snag – you admin types (e.g., grk) might want to move this description between Over Easy and DNR). Rather than descending by down climbing to the Steorts' Ridge descent as Brian describes, the... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Nogales (5.9) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Jay, I'll buy you a six pack of your favorite from the Rock Shop to commit to the overhanging jams between that thing and the corner. But, of course, if it cuts loose I probably won't have to buy it. Since I'm about 60, this is a time limited offer.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Stay on the ridge, avoid the veg.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Okay, if James is in, I'm going for it – toggled up. Did it again last night (was that your chalk James?). Another plus, the route ends on a true summit, not just a point on the ridge like Steorts', and I like the scree field -- just point 'em downhill and stay light. Looking for info on Patty Parmelee (who Gottman says the ridge is named for); anyone got anything? PS, thanks for the update to the page Gregg.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Straddle the Pony (5.7+ PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, this was likely climbed before by the Wasatch legends of the 40s and 50s, who seemed to seek out long alpine ridges, but naming it doesn't bug me, although you may want to go with something like "STP Ridge," similar to the other ridge climbs on Storm Mountain, i.e., Patty’s Ridge, Steorts' Ridge, North Ridge, Standard Ridge (the Ridge Five-fecta?). If STP is viewed more as a mountaineering route, particularly if the r... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 25, 2016

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Comments: Tempted to toggle the fourth star for this one. It's longer that Steorts', has similar exposure and exciting moves, and the rock is almost as solid -- plus it has magnificent views of Stairs Gulch and the East Face of Storm Mountain, and is nearly as historical as Steorts'. It starts less than 40 feet from the well-trod Stairs Gulch trail, and the descent as described by Tristan and Peter takes you back to the base. Except for maybe ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall
By: John Steiger When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Found a pair of belay gloves on the ledge below Doubling the Cube this morning, and a brand new quick draw hanging on a nearby route a few days earlier. PM me if they are your's and I'll get them to you.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Milky Way Wall : Houston, We Have a Problem (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Guess I couldn't figure out the easy beta -- use the tree maybe? And what's up with that second bolt? If you climb straight up from the first bolt, you end up reaching down and right to clip it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Unknown (5.11b)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Not my route, lad. Where's Pandora's Box?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Sabbatical (5.10c)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: If you’re top roping this, a better alternative to get to the first bolt is to climb along a dike-like feature diagonalling in from the right (gain the dike by working up some darkish extrusions). This makes the line completely independent of Humble Tumble and probably bona fide 10c. One of you young 'uns with itchy fingers should bolt it, after getting the park’s permission, of course.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : BLM Rock - West Corridor : The Ranger's a Psycho (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: Three bolts protect the moves to the crack, which is trivial compared to the face moves (few finger- to hand-size cams will do it).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vector Madness (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: I'm fairly sure the keeper sling was rigged by the first ascent. I replaced the sling in July (2015).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Tear Garden : Cleanse, Fold, and Manipula... (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The post by e rock (no offense) is outdated and should be deleted. We found the route safe, solid, and clean. Definitely go straight up/slightly right at last bolt to get the multiple-star 10a experience.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Tear Garden
By: John Steiger When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Tear Garden and the Penguin (which are essentially the same crag) are well worth the walk for an afternoon cragging. Centre Bullet and Greater Wrong are almost worth it by the themselves –-- they are as good as anything at Challenge, for example --– and you won'’t find any free standing pinnacles like the Penguin anywhere in main BCC. The area gets good afternoon shade (on August 1, by 1pm), and the approach is well cairned through successive talus fields (when in doubt go left) and general... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin : The Penguin (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: BD, both are rusted quarter-inch buttonheads, first with about 1/4" of shaft showing when looking down on it (I suspect the rock fractured when it was pounded in, but it may be from a fall) and the second with an equally rusted homemade (or early Leeper?) hanger.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin : The Emperor's March (5.11a/b)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Worth doing, and could rise to multiple stars with some aggressive cleaning, and maybe another bolt to start (who carries a 5" cam in BCC?). I might have cheated though, cuz I certainly didn'’t stay directly in the bolt line after standing on the sloping shelf; still hard.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin : The Penguin (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Bolts (and fixed blade) still horrendous. I could figure out a way to back-up the pin (nut to right, small cam in pod to left) and last bolt (microcam to right), but not the first bolt – which is by far the worst. Don’'t fall on that bolt, or you'’re spinning the chamber. Good climbing though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Really cool formation--not many folks have stood on top of this, I reckon. Admins: consider merging the Penguin routes with those on Tear Garden. Given the healthy approach, no one is just going to climb the Penguin, and the Penguin is essentially part of the same crag, connected at the base.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Brainless Conformants (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: As suggested in Boissal’s write-up, we did Cause for Alarm and Brainless in one pitch, but it took some long runners and, if we hadn’t done some backcleaning, would have required about 22 draws. Well worth the effort to get a good full-tower pitch. An 80 meter rope didn’t make the ground though, so either two ropes or two rappels necessary to get down. Seems to have cleaned up well – about as solid as the white stuff at Hellgate gets. I’m goin’ 3 stars, 10d for the whole enchilada.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Shelter from the Storm (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Gotta say the first pitch is one of the best 5.11s in upper LCC (Medussa comes close, but this is better). The pitch is almost entirely in the dark stuff, which seems to be the best rock Hellgate has to offer. The higher of the two anchors needs a chain (18 inches should do it, plus a quick link) and a third bolt would be welcome. Like everyone else it seems, we did only the first pitch -- the second is in the poorer quality white rock, and even more intimidating than the first.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Lucy in the Sky (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: The on-line CRSP Zone 2 guide gives this an alternative name, Noise Pollution. Anyone know the story?


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