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Rock Climbing Photo: In the Black


Member Since: Apr 1, 2002
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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John Peterson
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Point Rank: # 100
Total Points: 4,478
Last Year: 231
Last 30 Days: 2
339 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1224 | Routes 138 | Areas 24 | Photos 514 | Page Improvements | Comments 168 | Posts 72 | Stars 290 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Western Coastal Slope : Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin : Wiessner's Rib (5.6)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: You can certainly top rope this but you would have to hunt around a little to find the right spot on top. The abundance of poison ivy at the base makes it less desirable to hang around there or throw a rope down from the top. I've lowered people from the top to the little ledge above the poison ivy and had them climb from there but I've never set this as a normal toprope.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: Damn straight!

Not many places you can get out so far from the cliffline from the top - here your ass is hanging out over Twilight Zone.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Last summer. Colorado is great but I miss the gunks!


Location: MD : The Narrows aka Lover's Lea... : Sisters' Corner and Ampithe... : Little Jimmie Arete (5.4)
By: John Peterson When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Very nice route - well worth the walk. Even with the GPS coordinates it's a bit hard to pick out - the arete isn't completely obvious from below. Look for a ledge that leads back to the right about 15' above the trail. This starts right where you can scramble up to that ledge.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: John Reppy is still active in the research community - see nature.com/news/2010/101208/fu... for an interesting peek into his work. He (to my knowledge) has never climbed his namesake crack but certainly could still get up it. He remains an active climber in his 80s - something that we should all aspire too. His physics work is quite extraordinary - Bob Adair told me he was close to getting a Nobel prize. If you Google John you'll also find his son, a professor in Chic... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: John Peterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Here's some better beta on the approach to the right side of the dome (probably anything from Buffalo Tears and right):

As mentioned before, hike down to the creek and go upstream - we crossed about 100' up from the spot where you meet the stream, about 18" deep at max. Once you get to the far side, go up until the horse trail. Go right (not up towards the rock). This will curl around left to a trail junction near a fence. Go left up a small stream, and look for a cairn leading up right - there... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: The line on Fractured Fairy Tales is nowhere near where it should be.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure : Donkey Ear (5.7)
By: John Peterson When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a ** route in a **** place. It's about 5.5 if you stay right in the chimney but 5.7 if you stay in the cracks. Awesome summit view!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure
By: John Peterson When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Some jerk on MP suggested that the pass between Treasury and Treasure would be a good approach. Having done this now, it's NOT the way to go - it was 2.5 hours to the pass and 1.5 hours from there to the rock, lots of up and down.

I think the right approach from the Gunnison side is probably through North Pole Basin - this was just opened to the public and is probably faster that coming in from Crystal. Most of this was visible from the rocks, and it looks fairly fast slab walking instead of th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: John Peterson When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: George, the pro is fine. You just ask someone rapping down to drop a #2 Camalot just above where the pin used to be and you'll be fine.

Plus High Over Boulder (second edition) says this is a 5.5, so real climbers should just be soloing this route.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
By: John Peterson When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: If you think that the RMF board isn't doing its job you're welcome to get elected to the board and do something about it. The board is composed of a bunch of climbers that care about Ragged - they do the best they can with the resources they have. The board is also bound by a conservation agreement that makes it very difficult to do some things.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Lake City Ice Park
By: John Peterson When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: December 27, 2014 - climbing is getting pretty good!

Rock Climbing Photo: Lake City, Dec. 27, 2014.
Lake City, Dec. 27, 2014.



Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress
By: John Peterson When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Found a pair of shoes at the base of Left End Corners. They had been there for a while and were a bit chewed up but still in OK shape. Left the shoes at Rock and Roll.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall
By: John Peterson When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Jesus H Christ on a Bicycle! I had to buy the guidebook just to figure out the name of this rock!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Unknown between Divine Miss... (5.9+)
By: John Peterson When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: The crux off the ground is easily avoided by stepping over to the second bolt from the rock leaning against the face right of the route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Here's my beta:

Starting on Fire Sermon is a nice way to go but you don't have to follow it exactly. On the first pitch, we went about 20' up from the thread instead of going left to the bolted alcove and then traversed easily left to join Fire Sermon above th2 2 bolts in the alcove. This makes P1 about 5.7. The 2nd pitch of Fire Sermon is very nice bolted slabbing - it seemed to be about 5.8 or so. This avoids grunting up the chimney on the normal P2. There is now a bolted anchor at the e... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Left End Corners (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: I don't set an additional belay - there's no problem topping out from the big ledge.


Location: Australia : Ball's Pyramid
By: John Peterson When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: Updated link to the FA story:

uq.edu.au/nuq/jack/Bryden.html


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : End Run (5.4) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Shhhh.... they might hear you


Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: You're right it's near Ohio Pass. This is near the Castles. Here's a map link


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Monk Sandals (5.9)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Nicest of the new routes on Other Mothers! Excellent climbing. We cleaned a bunch of cactus and crap out of the crack, so it should be even nicer.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : Other Mothers
By: John Peterson When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: The WCCC is welcome to construct a trail directly up from the parking lot - definitely would be faster!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Dolphin Girl (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Nice climb! Are there more pitches above this?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : ... : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: This isn't the normal line on P4 - it's to the right of the usual finger crack. Looks nice!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : Mount Robson Provincial Par... : ... : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: Yeah - it was way sketchy! The snow alternated between mildly solid on the top of each gargoyle to totally rotten in the gaps. It was probably just as well we couldn't see all the way down. The big question in our minds was whether we had the guts to jump off one side if our partner fell off the other. Fortunately this never got put to the test.


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