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In the Black


Member Since: Apr 1, 2002
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact John Peterson


Point Rank: # 94
Total Points: 4,246
Last Year: 177
Last 30 Days: 0
237 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Peterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1149 | Routes 136 | Areas 25 | Photos 471 | Page Improvements | Comments 156 | Posts 60 | Stars 283 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress
By: John Peterson When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Found a pair of shoes at the base of Left End Corners. They had been there for a while and were a bit chewed up but still in OK shape. Left the shoes at Rock and Roll.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall
By: John Peterson When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Jesus H Christ on a Bicycle! I had to buy the guidebook just to figure out the name of this rock!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Unknown between Divine Miss... (5.9+)
By: John Peterson When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: The crux off the ground is easily avoided by stepping over to the second bolt from the rock leaning against the face right of the route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Here's my beta:

Starting on Fire Sermon is a nice way to go but you don't have to follow it exactly. On the first pitch, we went about 20' up from the thread instead of going left to the bolted alcove and then traversed easily left to join Fire Sermon above th2 2 bolts in the alcove. This makes P1 about 5.7. The 2nd pitch of Fire Sermon is very nice bolted slabbing - it seemed to be about 5.8 or so. This avoids grunting up the chimney on the normal P2. There is now a bolted anchor at the e... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Left End Corners (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: I don't set an additional belay - there's no problem topping out from the big ledge.


Location: International : Australia : Ball's Pyramid
By: John Peterson When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: Updated link to the FA story:

uq.edu.au/nuq/jack/Bryden.html


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : End Run (5.4) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Shhhh.... they might hear you


Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: You're right it's near Ohio Pass. This is near the Castles. Here's a map link


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Monk Sandals (5.9)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Nicest of the new routes on Other Mothers! Excellent climbing. We cleaned a bunch of cactus and crap out of the crack, so it should be even nicer.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : Other Mothers
By: John Peterson When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: The WCCC is welcome to construct a trail directly up from the parking lot - definitely would be faster!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Dolphin Girl (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Nice climb! Are there more pitches above this?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : ... : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: This isn't the normal line on P4 - it's to the right of the usual finger crack. Looks nice!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: Yeah - it was way sketchy! The snow alternated between mildly solid on the top of each gargoyle to totally rotten in the gaps. It was probably just as well we couldn't see all the way down. The big question in our minds was whether we had the guts to jump off one side if our partner fell off the other. Fortunately this never got put to the test.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The...
By: John Peterson When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: This shows the turn from I-70:

Google Maps


The driving directions on this page are accurate - just keep your eyes open since this isn't a marked exit.

The road is normally passable in your car but I haven't been there recently. At worst, it's only about 40 minutes extra to hike from I-70 to... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure
By: John Peterson When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: OK - let's clear up the approach issue. The place to start is Paradise Basin - that's the apex of the Slate River Road coming out of Crested Butte. Note that this is at 11,200' unlike Crystal, which is below 9000. The road up there is fine for any car, but have fun passing opposing traffic.

Follow the Yule Pass trail to the pass. This doesn't work early season - there can be heinous exposure crossing snow on this trail - but later is the season it's a pleasant stroll. Less than an hour to ... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Carey Corner (5.7)
By: John Peterson When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: The FA's are out of the green book.

I can shoot John Reppy an email and ask. My understanding is that he had talked to Wiessner a found Wiessner had done some of his presumed first ascents.

I placed the entire guide as a comment on the Ragged Mountain page. You'll note that at the time they didn't know about Wiessner's ascent of Vector either.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : The Dragon's Tooth (5.8+)
By: John Peterson When: May 14, 2012

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Comments: Definitely a worthy route. I expect it will clean up some more and become as clean as Casual / Casually Off.

On the approach, you can cut over fairly high to the base of the route, avoiding all poison ivy. This looked a little dubious, but by slithering down a 15' chimney, I wound up near the top of the slabs below the route. From the bottom of the chimney, I went up an easy gully and then traversed right into the slab near its top, easily beating my partner to the base.

I wouldn't use the ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: John Peterson When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: The organization of this page is a little questionable. There are a lot of distinct areas like Chasm View, but there's also a bunch of routes sitting around in "North Rim Routes". Should we create areas for each piece of the canyon rather than have a bunch of routes without any geographic location other than "North Rim Routes"?


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Unknown III (5.10)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: We had what appeared to be a small rattlesnake in the crack off the ground on the right. The little guy was mellow and never moved much.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Black Canyon National Park ... : Gandalf's Beard (WI4-5)
By: John Peterson When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Scoped this out yesterday - looks like no ice this year. But the new groomer that the park is using makes the approach really sweet!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Guide's Route (5.9)
By: John Peterson When: Oct 13, 2011

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Comments: The second rap is almost exactly 30m - you can get by with a single rope on it. Very nice descent compared to the old one.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Short Corner (5.10+)
By: John Peterson When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Very different to TR than to lead. Other than a tricky move into the wide part, everything was very obvious - it's just a question of endurance. Considerably easier if you hang a bit or have a top rope.

We used a #5 in the wide spot, but then it's green and purple all the way.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Ground Control to Major Tom (5.8 R)
By: John Peterson When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: A really good route. This description is awesome! If this didn't have the runout on P5 and the grunt down the gully, it would get a lot of traffic.

The start was marked by a small cairn. It's on a clean face to the right of a mossy grove.

You only need one rope for the descent - a 60m should work OK if you rap the gully.

The only runout that was intense was on P5. There was a short runout on P2 (not the start - that protected with small cams). The runout on P3 wasn't bad at all - we got ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes
By: John Peterson When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: May, 2011: the fixed rope at the Chillumstone is there and in good shape.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vector (5.8+)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 20, 2011

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Comments: The whole golf course approach is silly. I updated the description at the Ragged Mountain page.


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