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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Isolated Climbs : The Kind (5.10a)
By: John Parnigoni When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two routes here get morning and afternooon sun.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: John Parnigoni When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to save time, do the indirect start. A lot of the pitches can be done without a rope. Also, the 5.9 variation was worth it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: John Parnigoni When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got my redpoint last Wednesday on this route. While trying to make moves above the crux pin, I also considered putting something in the crack above. But then, suddenly... I felt my right fingers in that same crack slip.... right into a bomber Indian Creek style Ring-lock. I knew then, it was safe to proceed without futher protection!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Dead Dog Couloir
By: John Parnigoni When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went to ski it yesterday. Full on winter conditions. Had to park at the lower split in the road just before the private land sign. We made it up about 1/3 of the way and decided to turn around. Stair kicking was brutal in some areas. The snow got waist deep and sometimes took 4-5 steps to gain 1. I would of thought to have hit a good solid spring snow pack but didn't. Plus, there were a bunch of death cookies near the bottom from cornice failure. Take it for what its worth, it might be... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch... : Cow Creek Canyon / McGraw R... : Rabbit Ears Rock : Small Paradise (5.10a)
By: John Parnigoni When: Nov 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good warm up. Hardest move is getting on the thing. Bring either a extra #4 Camalot for the anchor or better, a long sling. Descent: Lower 5th class.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch... : Cow Creek Canyon / McGraw R... : Rabbit Ears Rock : Coke and a Smoke (5.10c)
By: John Parnigoni When: Nov 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great crack. Really steep and sustained for 50 ft. This crag is a perfect 1/2 day if your staying at Rabbit Ears campsite and want to hit Sheep Mtn the next day.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Twin Lakes Area : Black Slab : Black Slab Left (5.9-)
By: John Parnigoni When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook gives this a 5.7 and I would agree.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Twin Lakes Area : Black Slab : Black Slab Right (5.9+)
By: John Parnigoni When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guide gives this route a 5.9. Its a good little one to hit on your way out of the canyon.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: John Parnigoni When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fourth pitch isn't any harder than 9+. The pitch is a little awkward and exposed but i found it much easier than 10/10+. I did a lot of stemming nearing the roof.
I think 1st and second pitch can also be combined (w/ 70M rope) or 15 feet of simul-climbing w/ 60 m rope.
Awesome climb! goes 10d-- and at that-- no more than a move or two.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Haimovi Tower : Southeast Buttress (5.7)
By: John Parnigoni When: Jul 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route twice now. The Indian Peaks book has a decent description of the route. The hiking in does start off steep and gains quite a bit of vertical right away. But the hard work to get up and over the pass into Hells Canyon is well worth it.
My suggestion for gear is this: Bring a single rope. There are 3 easy ramps for early retreat between the 3 buttresses on the route. As far as pro: I brought a rack of Friends and a set of nuts and 8 slings. This was plenty. There were severa... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Cunning Stunt (5.11a R)
By: John Parnigoni When: Jun 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux section is short and fun. If your good at jamming cracks, you'll find this to be an easier 11.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Outlander (5.10c)
By: John Parnigoni When: Apr 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: No way the 2nd pitch is 10d. The holds and jams are too positive. The feet might suck in a few areas but I think 10c would be more accurate.
A great way to reach this climb is by taking Thindependence (10c) to the 10b traverse into J Crack (9). Then take the 5.2 crack to the left below the cave for a good belay. The link up is worthy of 1 million stars.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : TAD (5.7)
By: John Parnigoni When: Sep 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went up this using doubles of camalots #.75-#3 and didnt have to run it out. A #3.5 could of been handy but not necessary.
The crack does get pretty wide but I found great fist and hand jamms all the way-- with rests.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Crystal Shard (5.10a)
By: John Parnigoni When: Sep 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting there: Take the path to the right side of the climber register and head up hill with the Middle Marker on your right side. Go pass Star Dancer to the top of the hill and make a sharp right. Head toward a narrow gully and take that to the top(class 3). At the top you'll see the climb on your left.
This climb was a blast. Maybe not quite 3 stars since it is so short but the moves on it are really fun. If you're really brave, try Teenage Mutant Ninja Crystals (5.12***)on the SE side... more >>
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