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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Nervous in Suburbia (5.10a)
By: John Marsella When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route after getting the first bolt clipped. To echo other comments: send a solid, confident or foolish leader as getting to that first bold is a bit tenuous.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Cloister Frock (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock down low is fairly dirty / flaky; this makes for a medium pucker-factor.
Sustained climbing down low eases and eventually turns to a very run-out scramble (40'ish of 5.2?) to the anchors (2 cold-shut types).
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge
By: John Marsella When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch out for ticks! 4/3/13.
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Location: Liberty : Me : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: beautiful natural duo-doigt pocket.
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Location: AlanJ : st. vrain vally, lyons colo... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.mountainproject.com/v/scout-rock/105744935
Also, Gillett's guide is worth getting. Possibly available at sharpendbooks.com
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Location: AlanJ : st. vrain vally, lyons colo... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's scout rock. The big chimney just in the left of the frame is 5.4 or something with bolts up top. The leaning crack is 5.9.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : I Promise Not To Cam In You... (5.10b)
By: John Marsella When: Feb 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't see the pin today 16-Feb-13 (though that doesn't mean it's not there). Also, the slings around the horn (mentioned in BG's guide) were rotted off, so plan to sling that rock yourself.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonde... (5.9+)
By: John Marsella When: Jan 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Supplementary gear options also include C3 (red or yellow) or HB offset #5.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: John Marsella When: Nov 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11-21-12: No hymenoptera nor pins at the belay, though I could have not been looking well enough.
Also, I was able to get plenty of pro in p1 (some may have been more psychological than functional) with little drag, using slings judiciously.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Sign Crack Area : Hop Skip and a Jump (5.7)
By: John Marsella When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Replaced tree rap station with webbing. Removed frayed tat.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : 99% Pure (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used cupped, cammed hands and forearm-jams to get up this one. BD #3s or WC #3.5s are the way to go. Bring several....
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : South Ridgeline, including ... : Cat Eye Wall: Upper Roof (V-easy)
By: John Marsella When: Aug 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one may be referred to as "Face It, You're a Flake" in the NCCC guide.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Join The Party (5.9-)
By: John Marsella When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Large block near the anchors reportedly loose today, 6/30/12. Marked with heavy chalk by the reporting climber. I did not personally pull on the loose rock, but I believe it is out right of the crystals below the anchor.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Broadmoor (5.10b)
By: John Marsella When: May 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why call this one a 6-pitch 5.10b when the "final pitch" goes at 5.10d? Can this route be edited to count as 5 pitches at 5.10b and a variation to finish?
Otherwise, fun route. B.G. did a good job on this one. Adventuresome with the loose Formica, etc. and the spacing of the bolts!
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Sentinel : Crooked Cross (5.9+)
By: John Marsella When: Apr 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 4/14/12, there are no rap slings anywhere on this route.
While the walk-off is obvious, it should be said: to access the obvious portion of the walk-off, climb over a boulder past the belay station, then step into a chimney.
Also, note that it is easy to set up an anchor / rap station to access the base of Southern Cross from the belay stance at the top of Crooked Cross.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Unleash The Lions (5.7)
By: John Marsella When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of loose rock just past the roof moves. Careful.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Turd World Country : ... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it is definitely on road cut. A flute from where they drilled to put the dynamite in serves as a hold.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
By: John Marsella When: Mar 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is what looks like a moderately new bolt line on the second tier (i.e., above Upside the Cranium) leading to the skull (maybe for "Alvino's Variation," as in the BG guide?). I did not notice the bolts when I was up there last year, although they could have been there.... Any info from those who know? The guide doesn't mention bolts.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : ... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Emergency Entrance climbs the weakness just foreground of the broken pillar-like thing in the right hand side of this photo.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Emergency Entrance (5.7)
By: John Marsella When: Mar 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3-11-12, the switch a route problem has been resolved! Thanks, Area Admins!
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : IV League (5.7)
By: John Marsella When: Mar 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3-11-12, the switch a route problem has been resolved! Thanks, Area Admins!
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Turd World Country : ... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry for this crappy photo, it is a screencap from a certain search-engine's photo-van; I'll get a better photo next time I head to SSV.
Also note: this photo was taken in 2007, and I believe the pine tree has since died.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Community Service (formerly... (5.6)
By: John Marsella When: Jun 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor bolts seemed fine today, 6/3/11.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Roadside Rock : Drop Your Cool, Tom Foolery (5.10c)
By: John Marsella When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 11 hangers + 2 chains at the top of this one. The lowest hanger has been removed (the bolt remains); I suppose this is to discourage belaying from a lower stance (from which a 60m lower would be impossible); lowering with a 70m from here just barely makes it.
I agree with Tony B re: height-dependent clipping ease. Some clips could be a stretch.
I thought this one was pretty fun, although some shrubbery on the route kinda sucks.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Turd World Country : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dotted line indicating Howdy Ho is not quite right. The route begins on the slightly downstream-facing aspect of "The Turd" and stays on that side for about 2/3 of the climb. Let's just say "perspective warped to show routes"....
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