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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Community Service (formerly... (5.6)
By: John Marsella When: Jun 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor bolts seemed fine today, 6/3/11.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Roadside Rock : Drop Your Cool, Tom Foolery (5.10c)
By: John Marsella When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 11 hangers + 2 chains at the top of this one. The lowest hanger has been removed (the bolt remains); I suppose this is to discourage belaying from a lower stance (from which a 60m lower would be impossible); lowering with a 70m from here just barely makes it.
I agree with Tony B re: height-dependent clipping ease. Some clips could be a stretch.
I thought this one was pretty fun, although some shrubbery on the route kinda sucks.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Turd World Country : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dotted line indicating Howdy Ho is not quite right. The route begins on the slightly downstream-facing aspect of "The Turd" and stays on that side for about 2/3 of the climb. Let's just say "perspective warped to show routes"....
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Turd World Country : Howdy Ho! (The Turd) (5.10d)
By: John Marsella When: Apr 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The lower piton popped out while we were climbing this one today. I don't know how to place pitons & I don't own any, so I couldn't replace it. If someone wants to fix it up, that would be awesome. Otherwise, bring some small slcds.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro...
By: John Marsella When: Apr 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lat/Long for Beige Tube
40.421531,-105.225934
map
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : KeeMoSabe (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: Dec 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this one today & no loose holds.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Cliffs of Insanity : R.O.U.S. (5.10a)
By: John Marsella When: Dec 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: To get to this climb, hang an uphill-right just before the outcropping which juts out towards the road (it has a "pleated" appearance with a vertical cleft in the center). There are some boulders to clamber over in order to reach the belay stance. Look for a fallen, twisted tree trunk.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Pitch Penny Boulder : Penny Standard (V3+)
By: John Marsella When: Dec 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is referred to as "Penny Standard**** V2" in the NCCC Horsetooth guidebook (#81, p. 27, Cross & Scott, 2009).
Sitting start requires either an immediate lunge-type move to the right-hand side-cling, or a slower, more balanced approach. Attaining the side-pull is the crux.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Central Ridgeline, includin... : Ship's Prow Right (V1)
By: John Marsella When: Dec 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this one is named, according to the NCCC guide, "Ship's Prow*** V2" (#58, p.22, Cross, C. & B. Scott, Horsetooth Reservoir Bouldering Guide Select www.nococlimbing.org/climbing/ ) This would be the 1st to the right of the arete itself.
MP may be missing some routes & photos? There seems to be some general dissent in regards to the names of the climbs on this rock... any clarifying info from folks "in the know"?
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.11)
By: John Marsella When: Nov 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a short bit of cordelette tied to the 3rd bolt on the 2nd pitch of this one (as of 21-nov-10). I assume that it was placed as a "fixed sling," but I wouldn't trust "fixed" software. We left it, but it might be a good idea to remove it so no-one decks if it fails.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4)
By: John Marsella When: Oct 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Scott on this one-- I am ~5'10" and am fairly uncomfortable with this anchor. I've gotta stand on my tiptoes to work with it. The 2 links of chain could stand to be 3 or 4 links?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: John Marsella When: Sep 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, thanks for the head's up!! The notice on the tyro-tree is starting to fall off, but is still there for now. We went out yesterday (23-Sept) and saw no bat.
As far as the bat being rabid: I'm not sure that one could say unequivocally that an aggressive bat carries the disease. Testing requires destroying the animal and taking brain-matter samples.
Bats *are* the #1 rabies carrier in CO, so it's always a good idea to avoid them when possible!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : What's Mine Is Yours (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: Aug 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps it was my imagination, but I felt that a juggy hold just below and to the left of the 1st clip was a bit wobbly. This particular rock did sound hollow upon knocking. I didn't like it and moved past it asap. Otherwise, a nice climb, and I second: it is harder than it looks!
Had to "update" my D'Antonio book with this one.
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