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Member Since: Mar 25, 2009
Last Visit: May 28, 2014
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Point Rank: # 5,645
Total Points: 60
Last Year: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Long been climbing?










Contributions


All 57 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 50 | Posts 4 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
JL, So High solo in tennis shoes, 1975. The slab moves on top were a bit sketchy.

JL, So High solo in tennis shoes, 1975. The slab moves on top were a bit sketchy.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : So High (V5 R)

Nov 15, 2011

Pinch2.

Pinch2.

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Comment

Jul 25, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Grey Giant : Hyperion (5.11d)
By: John Long When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch was never 5.11a. I climbed it after the block broke off and it was only a letter grade harder. the big advantage now is that you can protect the lower bit with TCUs et al. BITD it was sketchy wires. Don't rip!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Century Lake Area : ... : Swamp Thing (5.12)
By: John Long When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: This route is probably 5.13. Because the route is in a river bed, the rock is absoultely diamond hard. Grat, powerful moves at the bottom. One of the best tech routes in the park.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: John Long When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I'm not so much commenting on the route, rather the attitudes that an old trad route is open to revision by way of sport climbing ethics. Those are two totally different disciplines. If you want to keep it safe and merely technical, stick with the sport routes, but don't go supposing to reduce old trad routes to sport climbing specs simply because you want to. You render the trad game meaningless for strictly selfish reasons, and that's not the game as most of the world understands it. If and wh... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: John Long When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: What this shows is that people no longer respect much about what happened on the First Ascent, and in fact, the first ascentionists vision means nothing whatsoever and revisionists can come along at will and "improve" on a route if it "makes sense" to them. After all, every punter is just entitled to the route as the narcissistic rubes who first climbed it, right? We don't have to honor their efforts or their ability or their comittment. All we have to honor is our own tastes and degree of acce... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Pea Brain (5.12c R)
By: John Long When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Lynn and I were walking past this area of the wall and saw the bolts. We were bouldering a lot back then and were strong as God but this route looked rather dangerous, for sure 5.12 and you'd probably have to on-sight it or deck. Lynn said I'd have to be a Pea-Brain to even try it. I thought the 2nd and 3rd bolts were closer then they were and that the climbing would ease after 15 feet. Not so. It was basically a solo. I have no idea how Lynn followed because there were some huge reaches on crak... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Le Dent Pinnacle : Sugar Magnolia (5.11d)
By: John Long When: Apr 17, 2012

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Comments: One of my favorite climbs at Suicide. Great moves. Even a little spice up top.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - West Face : Hobbit Roof (5.10d)
By: John Long When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: This was first climbed free before 1975. Maybe as early as 1972 because I remember still being in High School. Did it on-sight free solo and never thought anyone would ever bother repeating it.

Go figure.

JL


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Mike's Books (5.6)
By: John Long When: Aug 6, 2011

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Comments: From the start of the 2nd pitch, you can either go up the crack, or do a harder step up move on the face and carry on up the steep slab and cut into the crack higher up. Another variation, put up around 1975, starts further around on the steep face to the left. There's a big dyno off the ledge to a rounded hold, a difficult step up and some dicy moves to easier ground - a short sequence to the easier (5.8) face above (it cuts over into Mike's Books) but there's no pro, we always bouldered this... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Datura (5.12a/b R)
By: John Long When: Aug 6, 2011

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Comments: I remember tossing a top rope on this BITD and being amazed that it went at 12b - it looked impossible. The rock at the crux is some of the best at Josh. Always meant to go back and throw a lead on this one but never got round to it. Mike did. Has to be one of the best routes at The Cove.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Campfire Girl (5.11d)
By: John Long When: Aug 6, 2011

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Comments: Is the top of this route really only 5.11d? Seemed like 5.12 when we first did it back in the around 1975. But it was super grainy and the old EBs were pretty shitty.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Hot Rocks (5.11b)
By: John Long When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: We first did this route on aid to learn how to place copperheads. A few years later, Bachar and I did the first free ascent on a TR, and despite it being quite grainy at the time, the moves were so suave we lapped it several times. Later that day, Bachar went over and soloed it. It's just the one body length down low but at that time climbing this cordless was a revolution.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Jonah (5.10c)
By: John Long When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: This baby was the site of some truly spectacular skidder falls when I was a kid and we were all climbing in shit shoes.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Piton Pooper (5.7)
By: John Long When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: I tried this after climbing for a week or so and backed off.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Edge (5.11a R)
By: John Long When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: There's no reason to do the old Edge. It was done before sticky boots and avoids the entire lower part of the true edge. The Turbo Flange takes the whole enchilada from the ground and should become standard as opposed to traversing in from another route. A little 5.11- down low but once you get past the first run out - to where the Flange connects with Tobin's original edge route, the climbing in never above low 5.10 but there's almost no protection. Don't rip, amigos.




Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Hangover (5.13a)
By: John Long When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone ever climb this thing? Would be interesting to see how it fares up to modern sport climbers, who are very experienced at this kind of movement.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : New Dimensions (5.11a)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: Might be my favorite short crack climb. Must have done this climb 50 times at least, probably twenty times with Bachar, mainly as a training route - up and down the last pitch endlessly.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : Midterm (5.10b)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: Possibly the best rock in the world.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Black Mountain : Boulder Basin Campground : Daring Boulder : Where Boneheads Dare (V5 R)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: FA around 1975. For full value, crank the opening move as a mantle. After the stand up the top is barely 5.10.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Black Mountain : Boulder Basin Campground : Big Greeny Boulder : Big Greeny (V2 R)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: The real gemstone in this immediate area is a problem on the way to the left and back a ways from Greenie, called Moroccan Roll, good cranking off dimes at the start and exciting finish up high on 5.11 face. No cheat stone to start. Don't remember ever falling on it and you really don't want to neither . . .


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Ultimatum (5.10b R)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: This was one of the first new routes I ever did and all the way up Gib and I were wondering if I was doing things correctly. There's a giant knob on top I thought might break and I took forever cranking over on it. Exciting times.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : South Face : Hades (5.13a)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: I still think the first pitch (1st done free by Hensil and Powell) is one of the best couple face pitches at Suicide. Perfect rock and pretty continuous. The last pitch is a wicked hard boulder sequence off dimes that I couldn't do till I went to Roubidoux for a month or so and got my dimes dialed. Very fond memories. Must have done the first pitch three times before I got the 2nd all free no hangs or weighting the rope.

JL


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Vampire (5.11a)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: For full value do the Pharoah as pitch one and get some true 5.12 in the mix because you can.

JL


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Super Pooper (5.10a/b)
By: John Long When: Jul 20, 2011

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Comments: This route was rated 5.9 for like fifty years. We did it in high school and thought, Damn,. 5.9 is kinder stout.

JL


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