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Long's


Member Since: Jul 13, 2004
Last Visit: Oct 19, 2012
Contact John Korfmacher


Point Rank: # 2,547
Total Points: 187
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Contributions


All (192) | Routes (5) | Areas (2) | Photos (6) | Comments (77) | Posts (93) | Stars (7) | Ratings (2)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

East Face Left

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Mod. Snow (2)

Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1200'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Taylor Peak

Jul 26, 2010

Ruta Normal

Mod. Snow (3)

Snow, Alpine, 4500'

South America : Chile : Volcan Osorno

Jan 18, 2010

Sheryl's Peryl (FA)

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R (1)

Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1200'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mt. Alice

Aug 25, 2009

Carpenter's Corner

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c (2)

Trad, 2 pitches, 200'

CO : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock

Nov 3, 2008

Creag Bleah

5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c (0)

Trad, 3 pitches, 300'

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Grey Slab

May 30, 2007

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Volcan Osorno

South America : Chile

Jan 18, 2010

Grey Slab

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : The Crags

May 30, 2007

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Volcan Osorno and Lago Llanquihue from the waterfront in Puerto Varas.

Volcan Osorno and Lago Llanquihue from the waterfront in Puerto Varas.

South America : Chile : Volcan Osorno

Jan 18, 2010

Seracs and debris guarding the summit of Volcan Osorno.

Seracs and debris guarding the summit of Volcan Osorno.

South America : Chile : ... : Ruta Normal (Mod. Snow)

Jan 18, 2010

Volcan Osorno from the ski area parking lot, January 2010. The Ruta Normal follows the ridgeline left of the summit.

Volcan Osorno from the ski area parking lot, January 2010. The Ruta Normal follows the ridgeline left of the summit.

South America : Chile : ... : Ruta Normal (Mod. Snow)

Jan 18, 2010

trolls <br />

trolls

John Korfmacher : misc

Feb 10, 2009

Long's

Long's

John Korfmacher : misc

Nov 17, 2008

First part (thin crack) of P2, photo by Mike Henderson

First part (thin crack) of P2, photo by Mike Henderson

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : One Hand Clapping (5.9)

Dec 15, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7)
By: John Korfmacher When: Sep 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If you want to avoid the scrambling, choss and additional hiking that constitute the approach to P1, there is an enjoyable alternative on the west side (near side as you approach from the Lower Saddle). It is a RF corner that is visible (in daylight, anyway) as you approach; it deposits you directly at the start of P1 as described above. It's a fun pitch (5.8 with good pro) and is in character with the rest of this absolutely excellent route. The pitch finishes with a roof that appears... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.9+)
By: John Korfmacher When: May 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A fine climb with exposure and fun (even the OW) movement throughout.

The 5.7 version of P3 isn't getting much love, for some reason. I found it to be enjoyable climbing on big jugs and incuts. If you want your hair to be on fire all the way to the top...well, the 5.7 isn't for you...but it's a nice finish after groveling your way up the OW.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : South Prow (5.7)
By: John Korfmacher When: Sep 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Al Wiedmann and I got on the first pitch of this route (I think) as described by Orin Salah above...by mistake. We were actually planning on a casual run up the NE Ridge, without realizing that the route starts on the OTHER side of the mountain! Anyway....

We tried two of the several RFDs in the area. They all seem to start off with about 50 feet of enjoyable climbing, then deteriorate into steep, insecure 5.10 ground with a thick encrustation of crumbly, gray lichens and less-than-awesome pro.... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: John Korfmacher When: Aug 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: If this climb doesn't get your heart rate up, check with your doctor...you may be dead. Exposure every step of the way, and if you like wild, strenuous (albeit well-protected) moves over a lot of air, this route is for you.

We initially tried to Allison variation on P1. The corners, though attractive, are compact, lichenous, and not easily protected, and we settled for the standard 5.8 start.

I was a bit surprised at two aspects of the climb. First, there are some significant (though not huge)... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: John Korfmacher When: Jul 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent climb...much of the route protects well with stoppers, although a couple of extra pieces in the #0.5-#2 Camalot range are useful for the long, long P2. The thin corner near the top of P2 was definitely the crux for me. Except for the cruxes, much of the rest of this pitch is 5.7-5.8 with occasional non-footjam rests.

I definitely recommend the 5.10b finish (option C in the route description) which is exposed, strenuous, and well-protected.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: John Korfmacher When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Overall, this is a high-quality climb in a great, exposed setting. There are a few chossy sections and thus protection is adequate but not plentiful--this is not a sew-it-up route. The left-facing corner start (just left of the "flatiron" start) adds a steep, sustained 5.8 to an already good climb.

For my money, the best pitch is the 5.7 dihedral/chimney (P3). The summit pitch, though exciting, is overhung, awkward, and not really my personal cup of tea. This is a full-value route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Undercling Right (5.8)
By: John Korfmacher When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: If you do the full three-segment zigzag on this route, the lowest 10m are solid 5.9/9+. Poor feet and the angle of the cracks makes for insecure holds. The angles also make passive protection difficult.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Knee Catcher (5.6)
By: John Korfmacher When: Mar 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There are some very nice, very solid handjams available in the back of the crack. OW technique needed only by those with small hands and/or short arms. I actually thought this was quite a fun pitch.

The bolt anchor at the top currently (as of March 2012) has some problems...one of the bolts is missing, and the remaining bolt is old and kinda weathered. It's also a spinner. The missing bolt either was removed or fell out (!). In any event, the anchor is poorly located. I'd recommend bringing a c... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Chickenhead (5.8)
By: John Korfmacher When: Jun 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Fine climb. Second pitch looks kinda dirty and chossy from the bottom, but it's actually pretty funky--lots of wild, ass-hanging-out moves on big holds with solid pro. P3 is a little confusing at first, but stare at it a little while and you'll get it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: John Korfmacher When: May 27, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: P1 of the route is in pretty good shape right now, although the upper slabby bit has some exfoliation going on which adds a little spice. A 5.9 rating is a bit stiff for this route (as are some of the other grades on the December Wall). It felt more like 5.8 or 8+ to me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Bushes of Baelzebub (5.8+)
By: John Korfmacher When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: Can be climbed as one pitch with a 60m rope, and judicious use of slings can minimize rope drag. Good pro throughout if you stay on route.

The OW crux felt like fair 5.8, but the awkward upper crux about 10m below the anchors felt kinda stiff for the grade. #11 hex protects the OW if you don't have a #4 cam.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: John Korfmacher When: Sep 20, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: If you're expecting clean, continuous rock climbing, this route will be a disappointment. If you desire a classic mountaineering line on good rock in a spectacular place, do this route; it's one of the best.

The black, 5.5 chimney above the initial ramp is a bit of a grovel but not too bad. The good stuff starts on the 5-easy stuff on P8, which has enjoyable movement and decent pro if you're not comfortable soloing the pitch.

Many people do this climb in approach shoes or boots, but ... more >>


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