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John Knight


Member Since: Apr 6, 2002
Last Visit: Apr 24, 2015
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Point Rank: # 342
Total Points: 1,803
Last Year: 68
Last 30 Days: 3
28 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Knight been climbing?










Contributions


All 515 | Routes 33 | Areas 14 | Photos 226 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 130 | Posts 6 | Stars 65 | Ratings 40
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : 60 Seconds Over Soledad (5.6)
By: John Knight When: Feb 11, 2012

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Comments: At least you don't have to worry about forgetting any gear in the car.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Sl... (5.10b)
By: John Knight When: Feb 11, 2012

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Comments: If you bolt it they will come . . .


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Son of Dawn Wall (5.11b A0-1 PG13)
By: John Knight When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: Instead of rapping, you can also continue to the top, head east (climber's left) across the top of the ridge and rap down the Hideout (less than 100' rap). About 20 minutes or so of scrambling down to the right (clockwise as viewed from the top)- 2nd/3rd Class - and you'll be back to the base of the climb. Probably easier/safer than rapping the entire route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Rubble (5.13b)
By: John Knight When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: Wow. 5.13b. I'll just sit here humbly and try to imagine what 5.13b feels like. Congrats on the FA!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Photo
By: John Knight When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: Matt,

Great job on the topo!

Hopefully there are more on the way for other SB crags.

john


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : South Face (5.7) : Photo
By: John Knight When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: Looks like he's using a beer bottle for artificial assistance. Some sort of "french free" technique? We would have to call that "aid climbing". That's gonna blow your "team free" on-sight. Bummer.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Burn Permit (5.10c/d)
By: John Knight When: Jan 21, 2012

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Comments: In the description of the climb it says, "[For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']."

This "old, rusty bolt" has been replaced with a new, shiny bolt so don't look for the old rusty bolt.

Side Note - Basically, this climb is a direct start variation of No Permit Required. For some reason, people started calling it Burn Permit and the name (sort of) stuck. I guess it's easier t... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Knee Surgery (5.9+)
By: John Knight When: Jan 21, 2012

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes on P-Wall. Steep, well protected, relatively solid, and often in the sun. I hate to split hairs, but I think the grade is somewhere between 5.9 and 5.10a. I would encourage people getting on it for the first time to bring a couple cams (1/2" to 1" range") and shoulder length slings to protect the move to the first bolt (see Floyd's comments).


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : ... : Photo
By: John Knight When: Jan 21, 2012

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Comments: Floyd, I see you gave poor Cheri a 50 lb. pack to carry with the 10 essentials - beer, smokes, a tent, tequila, etc. That would make it more like 5.10d!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Dark Side of the Moon (5.8 PG13)
By: John Knight When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Each pitch is about 75' for a total of about 150'. Sometimes I climb Doggie Style to Garden Party then rap down from the Dark Side anchor to Top Rope Pump Floyd (Pump Floyd shares the Dark Side anchor).

Second pitch recommended only as a way to get to the top of P-Wall. It is dirty and slightly runout but you can find several cam and nut placements if you're creative. It used to have more bolts on it and was just dirty and not runout. But alas, now it's BOTH dirty and runout.

Good training fo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : ... : Photo
By: John Knight When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: Photo Credit - Vickie "Garagliano".


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume : Photo
By: John Knight When: Dec 10, 2011

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Comments: This is what passes for "lead bolts" at Point Dume? Are they all like this? This is a good (or bad) example of what happens when you mix metals AND you have a marine environment.

The hanger is stainless steel and that mush of rust is a non-stainless "bolt". I have seen some of this at Cabrillo near Morro Bay. In an ocean side environment, the only way to go is with high quality "marine grade" stainless bolts and hangers. Plain old stainless is still not good enough! It needs to be marine grade... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu : Photo
By: John Knight When: Dec 10, 2011

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Comments: Holy Cow! That cam is nearly tipped out AND only 1 non-locking biner? You like living on the edge. I think you should add at least 2 more solid cams and equalize everything with a 22kN Web-o-lette. That's the only way you'll be able to restrain that beast. We could work in a couple bolts too if we had to.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : High Peaks : Condor Condiment (5.8) : Photo
By: John Knight When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Good advice. I discovered that the hard way. Had to prussik back up the ropes to get them unstuck then break it down into 2 raps.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Owl's Perch Area : ... : Photo
By: John Knight When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: This is the 2nd Bolt on Head Space (5.8).


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Owl's Perch Area : K-B Trip (5.10b)
By: John Knight When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Sorry Trevor but the description and the picture are from Head Space - easy 5.8. K-B trip is to the right of Head Space and to the left of JK Flashback. K-B trip is a "one move wonder" off the first bolt. There's one 5.10 move after you clip the first bolt. It's 5.10 "easy" if you're tall and 5.10 hard if you're not so tall.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Photo
By: John Knight When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: I believe that's Locke in front and Leopold hiding in the background. Correct?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Letterman (5.6)
By: John Knight When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: Carrot Top? I like it! I will have to change the name in the next e-Guide update. The true Letterman variation definitely goes left. It climbs through the spilled paint of the "P" on "P-Wall". The other variation (aka Carrot Top) is definitely better with the exception of the bat guano. Maybe it's not as bad as it used to be. It's been awhile since I was on it. I like the mini-mantle move above the bolt and the greater exposure of this variation/climb.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Mouse Maze (5.9- PG13)
By: John Knight When: Oct 15, 2011

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Comments: It would be a bummer of a fall if you blew it clipping the first bolt. Best to place a piece at your feet, clip the bolt then clean the piece to reduce rope drag.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Chockstone Dome : Walk the Plank (5.6)
By: John Knight When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: I think both of the Chockstone Dome routes are about 5.7. I like the step down then step up to clip the first bolt. Gives you an instant feeling of exposure. A great beginner route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Chockstone Dome : Overboard (5.8)
By: John Knight When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: A really fun, enjoyable route. Stepping down then up to the first bolt makes things a bit spicy. I gave it a 5.7 PG rating.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Letterman (5.6)
By: John Knight When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: Although you don't get any pro for 15' or 20' off the anchor, it's not that hard (maybe 5.3?). You'd have to pass out to fall. The crux for the left variation, in my opinion, is getting through the slick paint they spilled when they tried to mask over the "P". It's especially tricky when it's foggy! The right "Carrot Top Variation" has one interesting move over a small roof then the fun is sort of over as you work your way up and left through hundreds of years of bat guano.

There's now an inte... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Photo
By: John Knight When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: The other day, I got a call from a couple of my friends that were lost on their way up to the summit via "Eat Mo' Possum" (which, btw, should be changed to Eat Mo' Poison Oak). I don't want to embarrass them by mentioning their names but their initials are Jeff & Elizabeth.

Anyway, I put together this topo of selected routes on P-Wall & Shadow Wall. Hopefully it will help keep the next climbing team from getting lost up there.

Happy Climbing!

John


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak
By: John Knight When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: Cabrillo Fans,

I'm working on an e-Guide for Cerro Cabrillo. If you're interested in seeing what I have so far, go to my site & download a copy. centralcoastclimbing.com/topos... Click on the link on the bottom right with the pic of the kid on it. Still working on some topos, but I have Rock Land, El Dorado, Park Ridge a few others that you can check out.

Comments greatly appreciated!

thanks,

John


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Park Ridge Rock : Boobalicious (5.9+)
By: John Knight When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: HISTORICAL NOTE - I climbed with Kevin Knight (no relation) and Pablo Paster back in 2004 when they thought they did the top rope FA of this route (and posted it on Mt. Project). This was previously top roped and called Lumpy Lumps but was "re-named" on Mt. Project by Kevin & Pablo in 2005.

Regarding the grade, I think this route is closer to 5.10c than it is to 5.9. I usually don't struggle with 5.10b much less 5.9 and I had a hard time with it. There is an interesting posting on RockClimbing.... more >>


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