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John Knight


Member Since: Apr 6, 2002
Last Visit: Apr 24, 2015
Contact John Knight

Point Rank: # 340
Total Points: 1,803
Last Year: 68
Last 30 Days: 3
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Knight been climbing?










Contributions


All 515 | Routes 33 | Areas 14 | Photos 226 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 130 | Posts 6 | Stars 65 | Ratings 40
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Free For All (5.11a)
By: John Knight When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Video of Ben climbing the Free for All route. I think the lower section has various options based on whether you are left, right or straight on top of the bolt line.

youtu.be/z2zO3qVr7Cs


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : True Summit Block : Asymptote (5.11a)
By: John Knight When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: This route has a fantastic position and leads to the highest point on the Peak. I worked it off an on for a year with a couple partners and rated it between 5.10b and 5.10c. Then one day while I was working out the moves, a key foothold broke off an it suddenly jumped to 5.11! As I worked and cleaned the route it continued to evolve. Some days a new crimper would appear and the route would get easier. Other days, a hold would snap and it would get harder. It's a lot like the rock to the right of... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : True Summit Block : Malnourished (5.13- R)
By: John Knight When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Chris B. & Austin made a valiant attempt at Malnourished (while I took pics). I was hoping to get a sense of the grade but neither Chris nor Austin were able to get it. Ryan rated it 5.12 when he climbed it but I am fairly certain there are holds now missing. If anyone can confirm some interest in climbing it, I will donate the replacement bolts and help get them replaced.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : El Dorado : Olas Negras (5.12a)
By: John Knight When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Hey Ryan,

Just saw this comment! I have been off Mt. Project since my back surgery aboust 2 years ago. Would love to get you out there - for history - if you have a chance. Are you still local? This has been on my "to do list" for bolt replacement for about 10 years. There is a horrible mix of rusty junk on this climb. Some have been removed (not by me) or fallen out! You may be the last one to lead this climb!

Let me know if you can join us when we do the replacement.

Cheers,

John


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Free For All (5.11a)
By: John Knight When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: In March of 2015, a group of local climbers finally replaced the lower lead bolts for Free for All. We were able to locate all of the old bolts that were previously removed (with the intent of replacing them) a few years ago. Personal note - it was about the same time I had back surgery and I was unable to get assistance from "real climbers" to help put them back in.

In any case, with one exception, all the bolts were placed within a few inches of their original location. Now for the Exception... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Poor Man's P Crack (5.10a)
By: John Knight When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: Can someone draw a topo for this route and the variation? I'm a bit confused as to where it goes. I would like to add it to the e-Guide. Check out the photos I posted and let me know if it looks right. Thanks, John


Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves
By: John Knight When: Mar 5, 2013

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Comments: Anyone been out to Wagon Caves recently? I have a few friends looking for a fun, Beginner area to climb at and I don't want to give them wrong directions. I had heard the road in no longer requires the 2 creek crossings.

I haven't been out there since 2008 or so.

If the directions have changed, maybe we can get the above directions corrected.

thanks, John


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Poor Man's P Crack (5.10a)
By: John Knight When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: This "new route" sounds like it might be Biemer's Trough or Energy Crisis. Download the old Gulyash Guide here - 1986 Pete Gulyash Guide - Off the Wall

I may be wrong.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - East (Main) : ... : Photo
By: John Knight When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: It must be the new shoes.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Shining Path (5.10b)
By: John Knight When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: Nice work on the topo! I look forward to checking it out next time I'm at Tollhouse.

Also, be sure to check out Dwight & Slater's new book. Great topos in there as well. Thanks Guys,

John


Location: Hayley S. : Profile Pictures : Photo
By: John Knight When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: Haley, what happened to your head!!!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land : Tan Streak (5.6)
By: John Knight When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Led it? That first pro must be pretty high. What sort of gear were you able to get in and where?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : True Summit Block : Vertigo (C2-)
By: John Knight When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: Great video Aaron. Thanks for posting. I couldn't help but see those bolts and think, "Hey, I recognize that bolt!"

Looks like that sling in the middle's getting a bit manky. Only a matter of time before some budding aid climber clips into it and goes, "I think this will hold. Oh, shhhhiiiii-----------!!!!!!"

Also, I see the rivet hanger has disappeared. All the better. I'm tempted to pull out a few of those good bolts and replace them with old, 1/4" buttonheads and Leeper Hangers. If a few ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Knight When: Jul 21, 2012

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Comments: Curious which part of that climb "sucks". Seems like it would all be pretty darn good.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : P-Crack (5.8)
By: John Knight When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Re: "...crux traverse felt more like 5.9."

I discovered there are two ways to do the "crux traverse". The "high traverse" or the "low traverse".

To do the "high traverse", clip the 'bomber' 1/2" bolt, then step up the crack and place a red alien (or your cam of similar size) about 4' above the bolt. Then move right to grab the rail and do the traverse. You'll be well protected by your cam above the bolt but you will experience a harder "5.9-ish" crux. Once you make the traverse you should be ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - East (Main) : Limís Cramp Chimney (5.4)
By: John Knight When: Jul 12, 2012

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Comments: This is actually a fun, interesting climb. Set up the TR from the block on the right. You can go back into the slot from behind and do a short 4th/5th Class move to get to the anchors. Shares anchor with "Dig It" & "The Wave".


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - East (Main) : Hardly Worth the Trouble (5.7)
By: John Knight When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: You may want to bring a small nut or cam to protect the "step across" move at the start. Nice climb. I just wish it were a 100' longer.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: John Knight When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: Next time bring your wingsuit. Looks like a great launch pad.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : High Peaks : Photographer's Delight (5.5 PG13) : Photo
By: John Knight When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: Also, don't be a chicken when you get to the top like I was. Just stand up!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : P-Wall Direct (5.8 R)
By: John Knight When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: Bolts next to cracks? The bolts on "P-Wall Direct" ARE immediately adjacent to cracks that can be protected with modern cams. If someone placed those bolts today, they would likely be ridiculed and a team of people would quickly be mobilized to go out and strip the bolts. So how did these bolts come to be?

First a bit of background & history.
There are a total of 3 bolts on this route. The upper 2 bolts were placed around 1970 when Rusty Garing connected the "Rusty's Cave"... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Indian Wells Canyon : Owens Ridge : Owens Ridge North Face : ... : Photo
By: John Knight When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Looks bomber. You could hang a truck off that! Or at least your hat.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : South Face (5.7) : Photo
By: John Knight When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: That makes a lot more sense! Thought he was on lead not at a belay. Glad you guys took the time to get out there and post these cool pics. Too many people go back and climb their favorite routes over and over again. It's nice to show there's some other fun and adventurous stuff out there. Especially if you don't mind a little adventure on the approach.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Bishop Quarry : Photo
By: John Knight When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: Yes. See Ken's Qs above.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : South Face (5.7) : Photo
By: John Knight When: Feb 18, 2012

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Comments: Hopefully that's not your belayer down and left. He has zero hands on the rope. Maybe he's top roping someone from below. Oh wait, he doesn't have any hands on that rope either!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : The Frog : Get a grip (5.10b)
By: John Knight When: Feb 18, 2012

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Comments: Dave, this looks like fun! I look forward to getting out to the Hand and the Frog with you next year. You can lead all the scary and dangerous routes. Thanks for the post! John


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