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self medication in the himalaya


Member Since: Nov 27, 2007
Last Visit: Dec 9, 2014
Contact John Kear


Point Rank: # 1,032
Total Points: 621
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 1
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Kear been climbing?










Contributions


All 517 | Routes 27 | Areas 5 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 71 | Posts | Stars 208 | Ratings 165
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Astro Devil (5.11+)
By: John Kear When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Excellent! I just wanted it to keep going for a 1000ft. Very sustained and interesting climbing with each pitch better than the last. I had looked at this face 15yrs ago and thought it would be a great route. Nice work, keep it coming.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys Headwall Var... (5.9+ PG13)
By: John Kear When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a great headwall variation. The climbing is awesome and continuous. We climbed directly up to the belay under the above mentioned roof where the fixed nut is. On the second pitch I traversed left before the alcove at the top of the chimney. There was a good belay ledge there. From here we went more or less straight up maybe slightly left trending. The rock was good throughout and this seems to me the highest quality option for topping out on this section of the wall.
I'm wondering i... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: John Kear When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: So in response to the last couple of posts about car to car times on the Knife Edge. Glad DTP and PatrickV posted times, it gave me a good reason to get out and do the route again on a bit of a fitness mission. I used to use this route a bunch to train for trips to the bigger mountains. Glad we have this piece of terrain here locally to play on. So my time on Saturday 6/28 was 2:52. I think it can be done faster too, I ran about 70% of the 9.75 miles of the roundtrip. Looking forward to ha... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: John Kear When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Bill
You were probably looking at Where Eagles Dare. It is the route immediately south or right of The Great Escape. It is indeed 5.11 climbing but very clean face and crack features. It is highly recommended. The only thing bad about it is that that is only one pitch, plenty long though for a single pitch at 165ft.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Feeding Frenzy (5.10c PG13)
By: John Kear When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: I thought this route had been posted on MP long ago, I'm not sure what happened to it. Lee Brinckerhoff, Bryan Pletta and I put in the work cleaning and bolting the route. Marc Beverly and I then went and climbed it a few days later. Its definitely not a sport route, there are 4 bolts and a fixed pin, the route needs small cams up to a #1 camalot, be sure to bring extra blue tcu/green alien size pieces. With a 70m rope you'll just barely get back to the ground so the route length is ab... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Fowl Play (5.10 PG13)
By: John Kear When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: Did this route today. I seriously doubt this is Gary Hick's route, There is a River, knowing Gary and the way he rated his climbs there is no way he would have called this 5.9. It is sustained 5.10 for three pitches. If Gary had done the line back in the day we would all know about. It is very good albeit very grungy with lichen. If it gets cleaned up it would be three stars for sure. Gary seemed to get pretty excited about new routes especially if they were good climbing, he talked me int... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower
By: John Kear When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Alam
The new route just below Excalibur is the first pitch of watchman's secret. This pitch goes up under excalibur than crosses over underneath heading out right to a bolted belay well right of the excalibur and cry for Merlin's anchors. This first pitch is about 10b/c good and very technical for the grade.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Pulpit : The Cave Route (5.7)
By: John Kear When: May 29, 2011

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Comments: Yes you want to go down the northside of the formation after rapping off the backside. This will return you to the base of the route much more easily. You might have to do another rappel. Generally better than rappelling the route and doable with one rope.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Duran's Pharmacy (5.12c)
By: John Kear When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: The most challenging link up of the Duran routes is to start on the the right hand of the two, Duran Duran 11c here on MP. Climb this to the mid anchor, do the first crux 12bish and all cleaned up now, then continue on to the left hand finish (no real rest) which is probably 12c all by itself.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Duran Duran (5.12a)
By: John Kear When: Dec 27, 2010

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Comments: As of December 22, 2010 the suspect/dangerously loose rock just above the mid anchor has been removed and cleaned up. The sequence in this section is now a bit different but seems to flow a little better than before and without the worry of holds breaking.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Voyage of the Beagle (5.11b/c)
By: John Kear When: Dec 25, 2010

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Comments: Excellent addition to the crag, the best warm up in the Solar Cave section.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : Unnamed 2 (5.9)
By: John Kear When: Nov 21, 2010

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Comments: Carolyn Parker and I cleaned this line but the anchor was already there. The original line climbs a little left of the easy corner and is a bit harder. The FA of the left line was by Brian Paletta before 2004, Carolyn and I clean the easier right line in 04'


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : Unnamed (5.9)
By: John Kear When: Nov 21, 2010

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Comments: Carolyn Parker and I cleaned and bolted the anchor for this climb in 2004 which was likely the FA. We thought is was about 5.8.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : Finger Flake (5.7)
By: John Kear When: Nov 21, 2010

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Comments: Carolyn Parker and I put up this route in 2004 or so. Finger Flake is as good of a name as any.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Daisy (5.13 PG13)
By: John Kear When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: Amazing climbing with a couple of super burly cruxes. The first and second pitches are ultra high quality. The 5.11 pitch is one of the cooler pitches of that grade that I've done in quite a while. I'm ignoring the 3rd pitch and thinking of it as more of the way off then the actual climb. I figure I'll give it four stars and ya'll can give it three and it comes out at a solid 3.2 star route.

Nice job putting this rig together Kevin and Brad!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Thunderbird (5.12-)
By: John Kear When: Nov 6, 2010

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Comments: Stu
You definitely weren't on the 2nd pitch of LYJ it is only 10a. Sounds like you traversed into the second pitch of Thunderbird which is 11b and a little run out on easier climbing after the crux. Other folks have definitely done link ups of these two routes since they are fairly close to one another and end up on the same last pitch anyway. In fact when Thunderbird was being put up the first ascensionists used LYJ's first and second pitches to access the upper wall because the first two pi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Gift of the Wind Gods (5.10)
By: John Kear When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: This is indeed a great route. The climbing is steep, clean, interesting and sustained. The belays are all solid. The 1/4 inch protection bolts don't detract much from the route, although if all the old 1/4 inchers were to get replaced this would become a neo-classic for sure. I would call it better than Inti Watana. Very good traditional climbing!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Out to Lunch (5.10b PG13)
By: John Kear When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: Going straight up is recommended on pitch 5. You can also continue straight up the wall for another two pitches not sharing any terrain with Warpy.
Pitch 5 - go straight up with intermittent protection on 5.10 climbing, I think you end up at another bolted belay.
Pitch 6 - work your way up and slightly left climbing over a few bulges, arrived on a big slanting red ledge and belay, I remember this being a long pitch about 5.9
Pitch 7 - Climb good red rock following a crack system on the left ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Alchemy (5.11a)
By: John Kear When: Oct 7, 2010

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Comments: It is hard to tell, but there is actually a piece right at my waist and I got another within a body length.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Alchemy (5.11a)
By: John Kear When: Oct 7, 2010

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Comments: This pitch can be led without the bolts, it protects adequately without any of the fixed protection.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : ... : Photo
By: John Kear When: Oct 3, 2010

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Comments: Yes it's one and the same, ah the good ole days when Elijah used to climb!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: John Kear When: Sep 18, 2010

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Comments: Marc
I spoke to Bryan Pletta about re-doing the fixed gear on this route after you and I climbed it several years ago. He thought it was a good idea and had no problem with someone re-equipping the route.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : Splinted and Screwed (5.12a)
By: John Kear When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: Very nice new route with cruxes at the ends of the pitches. Psychical and steep climbing with awesome big fat flat belay ledges. Feels about the same grade as top flight but with a better warm up pitch. Well done!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Where Eagles Dare (5.11 PG13)
By: John Kear When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Went back to this climb today and rappelled all the way to the base of the good clean rock, about 160ft. We made a belay at a nice 2ft x 4ft ledge right below the logical line. I put in a couple bolts on lead then lowered back down to the ledge and red-pointed the thing. We also added a bolt at the belay ledge. Very nice climbing with two 5.11 crux sections.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Thunderbird (5.12-)
By: John Kear When: Aug 27, 2010

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Comments: In order to avoid a factor 2 fall on the anchor when leaving the 3rd belay on LYJ, there is a nice slot for a blue tcu or green alien size piece just up and left of the belay. It makes the traverse a little less serious and protects the belay from the big fall factor. Key beta really!


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