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Member Since: Jul 27, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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John Gassel
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Point Rank: # 2,021
Total Points: 352
Last Year: 225
Last 30 Days: 61
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Gassel been climbing?










Contributions


All 712 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 57 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 34 | Posts 44 | Stars 317 | Ratings 256
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dog Bite City (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I did this recently as a result of the new Gunks App listing and a friend's recommendation.

Personally, I wasn't a big fan. It felt a bit contrived. You're on part of Classic and finish as for Pink Laurel. There's only a few new moves that are interesting - about a 10 ft. section. It's okay if you're in the area and looking for something new or harder, but I wouldn't seek this one out over many other routes of the same grade.

I found the mantle move to be beta intensive. If you miss somet... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Three days later, made the same mistake as Joshua.

If you have the Miramontes guidebook, remember that it doesn't have all the routes. The right-most route on the wall is If You See Crow, Bark not Walk on the Wild Side. Don't accidentally climb a 5.10b X!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : If You see Crow, Bark! (5.10b X)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Same mistake as others. Forgot that the Miramontes book is a select and just hopped on the right-most climb on the wall thinking it was Walk on the Wild Side. First climb of the trip/season so I then continued to think that I was rusty and just kept climbing. Terrified of falling at multiple points, especially around the 4th bolt of P1, way above the lip.

Still continued up the second pitch despite the terror induced on P1, thinking it would be a grade easier. Hardest move on the climb prob... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Bombay Direct (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: The trees on the upper part of the climb detract from the flow of the route.

Pro is great through the lower (direct) start on this route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: I second the previous post by David. I was going to express almost the exact same thoughts.

A fun route to get you a little sweaty at the bear hug move. It's got a few runouts but it can be protected safely.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Camber (5.11b)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: This can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

In fact, we did it as a single pitch from the top of rapid transit, which is a little lower than the normal start. Double ropes used with the direct (run-out) start for P1 of Camber.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Radioactive (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: What a great route! Don't miss this one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Torture Garden (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: If you're trying to get on the 3-star linkup in the book that uses P2 of Torture Garden I have some beta that I think is correct.

Climb up Blistered Toe until it's somewhat obvious to traverse right across a face at 5.6 or so. After about 40ft of traversing right and slightly upward you'll see two pins pretty close to each other. There's a big ledge just right of that. Belay here. Took just over 100ft of rope to the belay.

P2 of Torture Garden goes up a very thin crack just left of the led... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Peak Performance (5.10a/b)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: This felt like a pretty serious lead. I got this fully on-sight, but had to make some committing moves in the process. As the gear beta on here suggests a #3 cam is bomber right before the crux. The next piece you can place is a good distance above that and hard to do on lead. I opted to just run it out to a restful stance and put in gear at that point, but this definitely made things PG-13.

This felt like a harder lead than its neighbor, A Dare By the Sea which I did with relative ea... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : A Dare by the Sea (5.10b/c PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorites at this cliff and a great climb to lead. It protects well compared to others at Otter. The crux takes great gear and for those concerned about the top you can get a solid nut in after the crux from a decent rest as Chris pointed out. It felt G to PG to me.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove : Black watch (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: It's really easy to access this route by walking (climber's left) across the rocks a few feet from where the standard 2-bolt Morning Glory rappel drops you off.

I found the movement and the protection to be thoughtful and good throughout the climb. Getting to the high first bolt might seem sketchy but the climbing is not too hard. The crux is high on the route when you have plenty of gear in already.

A #3 C4 backs up the single bolt anchor at the top very well.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Legacy (5.11a)
By: John Gassel When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Do this route! Awesome, varied movement on a beautiful piece of rock. Although it's a sport route, I found that it climbed a lot like a bolted trad route.

It starts with some impeccable face climbing for the first few bolts. I was able to reach some better holds at 5'11" than my girlfriend was at 5'5", which made getting to the first bolt a bit easier.

Solid crack climbers should cruise the dihedral in the middle. Judging by the chalk, it looks like it's possible (or at least attempted) by... more >>


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : Blanca Nieves (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: Such a great climb! If you're in the area don't miss this one even if you climb harder than this grade. Super fun climbing and would make a good warm-up. Pretty steep but on great holds the whole way.

When I was there a few years ago there was some chill music floating up from the houses below while leading this - made for an awesome, memorable vibe.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : ... : Photo
By: John Gassel When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Thanks! This view is from the P1 anchor of Locals Only for those looking to get this view of others on the Arete.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Rampage (5.10c)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: This felt really sandbagged for the guidebook grade of 5.10b!

I tried hard to find a way to do this statically but couldn't manage (I'm 5'11"). Ended up doing an all points off dyno and locking off with one hand. Crazy! The mantle is just has hard as the roof.

I wouldn't hesitate to call this 5.11, even by NH trad grades. But the chain is right there, so don't hesitate to get on this and give it a go. It feels sporty.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Locals Only (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: I found the first pitch of this to be quite good.

Nice slab moves at the beginning and end of the pitch. There was a sweet flake and fun roof problem as well. It's possible (although a bit reachy) to pull the roof right at the bolt.

My only complaint from this being a classic pitch is the dirty scramble on the tree ledge after the initial slab. There is also some suspect rock in this section just below the roof, although it's easily avoided.

Can't comment on the second pitch as I've only d... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp (5.10- PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Good route description for this climb. I kept looking for a technical way to do the crux and eventually gave into a dynamic move. The route is good, but I prefer Missing Link a little bit more. The second crux is more technical and the climbing less dirty above it. However, this variation will keep you away from Thin Air if there are crowds so that can be a bonus.

Just want to clarify a bit on what to expect above the second bolt. It doesn't just turn into 5.7R-ish climbing right away as t... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Pearly Gates : Milky Way (5.10-)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: As of 6/29/14 the first bolt has no hanger on it.

This was probably done intentionally by someone as there is plenty of gear to be had in the dihedral. Bring a piece or two for this section as this is the ~.10b crux of the route.

The 15' traverse left is pretty easy (~5.7). After that it's sustained, fun 5.9 for the rest of the pitch.

Second pitch is definitely worth doing. Slightly easier than the first and not as heady.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: We lost about an hour on the approach to this so I figured I'd share what we learned (on the way out!).

The climbers trail off the hiking trail is not totally obvious. There were a lot of things that could be a trail or could just be some rocks. We ended up passing about 1/4 mile too far and found a great tree spanning the river to cross. This put us in the middle of a long bushwhack though.

The trail really is DIRECTLY ACROSS from the route. Where you descend off the hiking trail is a lit... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Tang (5.10d)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: I couldn't agree with the description more on this one. I can't pinpoint exactly what it was about this route, but it definitely had me sweating a few of the moves. They weren't run out or anything, but they were just tough enough that it always felt kind of committing.

My lead took a while - having to convince myself to make some of the moves. My second cruised up, questioning my concern and affirming the route isn't that hard.

It was good enough that I want to get back on it next time... more >>


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Short Order (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: A fun climb with committing moves. Not sure why but I wasn't expecting the crux of this to be slabby. Don't make that same mistake.

There are 5.9 slab moves encountered at the first two bolts on P2 of this route (midway up) on the rounded arete, one of them with a ledge just below you once you commit. It's got a heady feel to it.

Beware rope drag if you link pitches together. I linked with P1 of Avenger and had enough rope with 60m doubles - barely.


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Avenger (5.9 R)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I did the first pitch of this en route to Short Order thinking it might reduce the rope drag since it was a little more direct. After doing this I'd have to recommend an intermediate belay. There was enough rope to reach the top tree with this link-up, but it still felt quite heavy at the top even with most pieces extended.

The first pitch was kind of wet and pretty dirty when I did it, but I'd still recommend it. The moves were really fun. With the fiddly gear on this pitch, it doesn't fee... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: This is hard! I can't remember being so pumped before. That being said, the climbing is great. Crux is about midway through...or is it not pumping out before the chains? You decide.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Little T-Bone (5.9+)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Quality route! Not just one of those....oh I did this because I had my rack with me. Do this over most of the sport routes on the wall.

Bomber #2 cam in the roof crack to start that you place at a good stance. That's probably the crux, but the rest of the climbing is engaging throughout.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Edge-a-Sketch (5.11a)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Most fun route on this section of cliff that I did, especially the start. Great for early 11 leaders. It's soft. Just stick clip it and give it a go.


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