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Member Since: Jul 27, 2011
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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John Gassel
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Point Rank: # 2,013
Total Points: 365
Last Year: 194
Last 30 Days: 1
29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Gassel been climbing?










Contributions


All 779 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 58 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 42 | Posts 21 | Stars 361 | Ratings 293
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : WM: Bartlett Area : Attitash Crag : The Main Area : The Flying Jib (5.10)
By: John Gassel When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Fun route. Takes good pro.

A small single rack of cams gives you lots of options for gear the whole way up the crack. No need for doubles of anything.

Get on this! The bottom slab needs some more traffic, it's a bit dirty.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Jane (5.11a PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: I've both aided and free climbed this thing to the midway anchor. Gear may feel tricky to place if you're pumped, but it's definitely G.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Jane (5.11a PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: No chicks as of 6/21; however, the nest was still there. I agree w/ SkiMD, the fixed webbing could use an upgrade Not unsafe, but not too inspiring that's for sure!


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Reign of Fire (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: It's a nice route. The moves at the roof are fun and surprising that they go at 5.9, which I feel they do. The bit from the dike to underling roof is easy but a bit runout. You'll want a large-ish cam (#2 or #3) before you start to traverse left.

Probably a bit easier for tall folks as there are a few reachy sections.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Bon Temps Rouler (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: This is a really great route. Makes for a nice long warmup and would only get better with more traffic. It's a bit dirty up top but the movement on this is fun throughout.

Don't agree with the need for a #4 cam. You can protect this with a standard rack to #3. Take extra medium sized cams depending on your mileage for the grade, keeping in mind it's a pretty long route.

Careful for some rope squeezing cracks when pulling your ropes (you'll need 2 to rap it). There are a few co... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Circus Wall : Clown School (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Hanger is still missing 5 years after the last post as of May 2016. Climbing between the bolts is pretty reasonable but you don't want to fall.

Pulling up through the roof on chicken head's was quite fun. :)


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Orchard Wall : Hysteria (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: It does feel a bit Gunks-ish I suppose. The face down low is definitely the crux. In fact, the opening moves are probably the hardest to the first horizontal.

The upper portion is just a super fun jug haul and tops out with a good view.

Definitely recommended.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: John Gassel When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: How does this thing go as an aid climb?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dog Bite City (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I did this recently as a result of the new Gunks App listing and a friend's recommendation.

Personally, I wasn't a big fan. It felt a bit contrived. You're on part of Classic and finish as for Pink Laurel. There's only a few new moves that are interesting - about a 10 ft. section. It's okay if you're in the area and looking for something new or harder, but I wouldn't seek this one out over many other routes of the same grade.

I found the mantle move to be beta intensive. If you miss somet... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Three days later, made the same mistake as Joshua.

If you have the Miramontes guidebook, remember that it doesn't have all the routes. The right-most route on the wall is If You See Crow, Bark not Walk on the Wild Side. Don't accidentally climb a 5.10b X!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : If You see Crow, Bark! (5.10b X)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Same mistake as others. Forgot that the Miramontes book is a select and just hopped on the right-most climb on the wall thinking it was Walk on the Wild Side. First climb of the trip/season so I then continued to think that I was rusty and just kept climbing. Terrified of falling at multiple points, especially around the 4th bolt of P1, way above the lip.

Still continued up the second pitch despite the terror induced on P1, thinking it would be a grade easier. Hardest move on the climb prob... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Bombay Direct (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: The trees on the upper part of the climb detract from the flow of the route.

Pro is great through the lower (direct) start on this route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: I second the previous post by David. I was going to express almost the exact same thoughts.

A fun route to get you a little sweaty at the bear hug move. It's got a few runouts but it can be protected safely.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Camber (5.11b)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: This can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

In fact, we did it as a single pitch from the top of rapid transit, which is a little lower than the normal start. Double ropes used with the direct (run-out) start for P1 of Camber.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Radioactive (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: What a great route! Don't miss this one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Torture Garden (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: If you're trying to get on the 3-star linkup in the book that uses P2 of Torture Garden I have some beta that I think is correct.

Climb up Blistered Toe until it's somewhat obvious to traverse right across a face at 5.6 or so. After about 40ft of traversing right and slightly upward you'll see two pins pretty close to each other. There's a big ledge just right of that. Belay here. Took just over 100ft of rope to the belay.

P2 of Torture Garden goes up a very thin crack just left of the led... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Peak Performance (5.10a/b)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: This felt like a pretty serious lead. I got this fully on-sight, but had to make some committing moves in the process. As the gear beta on here suggests a #3 cam is bomber right before the crux. The next piece you can place is a good distance above that and hard to do on lead. I opted to just run it out to a restful stance and put in gear at that point, but this definitely made things PG-13.

This felt like a harder lead than its neighbor, A Dare By the Sea which I did with relative ea... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : A Dare by the Sea (5.10b/c PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorites at this cliff and a great climb to lead. It protects well compared to others at Otter. The crux takes great gear and for those concerned about the top you can get a solid nut in after the crux from a decent rest as Chris pointed out. It felt G to PG to me.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove : Black watch (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: It's really easy to access this route by walking (climber's left) across the rocks a few feet from where the standard 2-bolt Morning Glory rappel drops you off.

I found the movement and the protection to be thoughtful and good throughout the climb. Getting to the high first bolt might seem sketchy but the climbing is not too hard. The crux is high on the route when you have plenty of gear in already.

A #3 C4 backs up the single bolt anchor at the top very well.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Legacy (5.11a)
By: John Gassel When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Do this route! Awesome, varied movement on a beautiful piece of rock. Although it's a sport route, I found that it climbed a lot like a bolted trad route.

It starts with some impeccable face climbing for the first few bolts. I was able to reach some better holds at 5'11" than my girlfriend was at 5'5", which made getting to the first bolt a bit easier.

Solid crack climbers should cruise the dihedral in the middle. Judging by the chalk, it looks like it's possible (or at least attempted) by... more >>


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : Blanca Nieves (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: Such a great climb! If you're in the area don't miss this one even if you climb harder than this grade. Super fun climbing and would make a good warm-up. Pretty steep but on great holds the whole way.

When I was there a few years ago there was some chill music floating up from the houses below while leading this - made for an awesome, memorable vibe.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : ... : Photo
By: John Gassel When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Thanks! This view is from the P1 anchor of Locals Only for those looking to get this view of others on the Arete.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Rampage (5.10c)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: This felt really sandbagged for the guidebook grade of 5.10b!

I tried hard to find a way to do this statically but couldn't manage (I'm 5'11"). Ended up doing an all points off dyno and locking off with one hand. Crazy! The mantle is just has hard as the roof.

I wouldn't hesitate to call this 5.11, even by NH trad grades. But the chain is right there, so don't hesitate to get on this and give it a go. It feels sporty.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Locals Only (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: I found the first pitch of this to be quite good.

Nice slab moves at the beginning and end of the pitch. There was a sweet flake and fun roof problem as well. It's possible (although a bit reachy) to pull the roof right at the bolt.

My only complaint from this being a classic pitch is the dirty scramble on the tree ledge after the initial slab. There is also some suspect rock in this section just below the roof, although it's easily avoided.

Can't comment on the second pitch as I've only d... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp (5.10- PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Good route description for this climb. I kept looking for a technical way to do the crux and eventually gave into a dynamic move. The route is good, but I prefer Missing Link a little bit more. The second crux is more technical and the climbing less dirty above it. However, this variation will keep you away from Thin Air if there are crowds so that can be a bonus.

Just want to clarify a bit on what to expect above the second bolt. It doesn't just turn into 5.7R-ish climbing right away as t... more >>


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