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Member Since: Jul 27, 2011
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact John Gassel


Point Rank: # 4,084
Total Points: 103
Last Year: 80
Last 30 Days: 1
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 291 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 7 | Stars 135 | Ratings 114
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Static Rope

Static Rope

FOR SALE / Wanted : [FS] 100+ ft. Static Rope (...

Aug 1, 2014

First roof on missing link.

First roof on missing link.

NH : Cathedral Ledge : ... : Missing Link (5.10a)

Jul 24, 2014

Tom somewhere around the crux of the route.  Note the belay rope.  It's vertical from the chains, hence the surprising overhang of the route.

Tom somewhere around the crux of the route. Note the belay rope. It's vertical from the chains, hence the surprising overhang of the route.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)

Jun 11, 2014

Tom on the slopey early section of the route.

Tom on the slopey early section of the route.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)

Jun 11, 2014

Me on lead nearing the top.  My arms were so gone at this point!

Me on lead nearing the top. My arms were so gone at this point!

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)

Jun 11, 2014

Beth checking her feet as she nears the chains.

Beth checking her feet as she nears the chains.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : La Escalada (5.6)

Jun 11, 2014

Tom about to get into the juggy (super fun) top section of the climb.

Tom about to get into the juggy (super fun) top section of the climb.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Pre-emptive Strike (5.10c)

Jun 11, 2014

Alissa working her way up the steep jugs.  Great route!

Alissa working her way up the steep jugs. Great route!

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Banjolero (5.10c)

Jun 11, 2014

Tom nearing the top of this awesome juggy section!

Tom nearing the top of this awesome juggy section!

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Banjolero (5.10c)

Jun 11, 2014

Emmett in the upper section of the route just below the slabby top-out at the end of a great day in May.  View from Pre-emptive Strike.

Emmett in the upper section of the route just below the slabby top-out at the end of a great day in May. View from Pre-emptive Strike.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Boltergeist (5.10b)

Jun 4, 2014

Looking down at the middle of the route.  View from Pre-emptive Strike.

Looking down at the middle of the route. View from Pre-emptive Strike.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Boltergeist (5.10b)

Jun 4, 2014

In early March without much ice on the route.

In early March without much ice on the route.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Clark? (WI4 M6)

Mar 6, 2014

Led with no one else around, very fun route in a great setting.

Led with no one else around, very fun route in a great setting.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Pick o' the Vic (WI4)

Mar 6, 2014

It looks like the Peace Dove got a makeover at some point within the last few weeks.

It looks like the Peace Dove got a makeover at some point within the last few weeks.

Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : ... : Peace Dove (V2+)

Sep 13, 2012

Pulling the crux roof.

Pulling the crux roof.

MA : Rose Ledge : Rhino Dyno aka The Lunge (5.10a)

Aug 13, 2012

The Fairy Tale Traverse variation of the last pitch - a must do!

The Fairy Tale Traverse variation of the last pitch - a must do!

NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Northeast Ridge of the Pinn... (5.7)

Aug 7, 2012

The rhino!

The rhino!

MA : Rose Ledge : Rhino Dyno aka The Lunge (5.10a)

Sep 21, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp (5.10- PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good route description for this climb. I kept looking for a technical way to do the crux and eventually gave into a dynamic move. The route is good, but I prefer Missing Link a little bit more. The second crux is more technical and the climbing less dirty above it. However, this variation will keep you away from Thin Air if there are crowds so that can be a bonus.

Just want to clarify a bit on what to expect above the second bolt. It doesn't just turn into 5.7R-ish climbing right away as t... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Pearly Gates : Milky Way (5.10-)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: As of 6/29/14 the first bolt has no hanger on it.

This was probably done intentionally by someone as there is plenty of gear to be had in the dihedral. Bring a piece or two for this section as this is the ~.10b crux of the route.

The 15' traverse left is pretty easy (~5.7). After that it's sustained, fun 5.9 for the rest of the pitch.

Second pitch is definitely worth doing. Slightly easier than the first and not as heady.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: We lost about an hour on the approach to this so I figured I'd share what we learned (on the way out!).

The climbers trail off the hiking trail is not totally obvious. There were a lot of things that could be a trail or could just be some rocks. We ended up passing about 1/4 mile too far and found a great tree spanning the river to cross. This put us in the middle of a long bushwhack though.

The trail really is DIRECTLY ACROSS from the route. Where you descend off the hiking trail is a lit... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Tang (5.10d)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I couldn't agree with the description more on this one. I can't pinpoint exactly what it was about this route, but it definitely had me sweating a few of the moves. They weren't run out or anything, but they were just tough enough that it always felt kind of committing.

My lead took a while - having to convince myself to make some of the moves. My second cruised up, questioning my concern and affirming the route isn't that hard.

It was good enough that I want to get back on it next time... more >>


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Short Order (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A fun climb with committing moves. Not sure why but I wasn't expecting the crux of this to be slabby. Don't make that same mistake.

There are 5.9 slab moves encountered at the first two bolts on P2 of this route (midway up) on the rounded arete, one of them with a ledge just below you once you commit. It's got a heady feel to it.

Beware rope drag if you link pitches together. I linked with P1 of Avenger and had enough rope with 60m doubles - barely.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Avenger (5.9 R)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I did the first pitch of this en route to Short Order thinking it might reduce the rope drag since it was a little more direct. After doing this I'd have to recommend an intermediate belay. There was enough rope to reach the top tree with this link-up, but it still felt quite heavy at the top even with most pieces extended.

The first pitch was kind of wet and pretty dirty when I did it, but I'd still recommend it. The moves were really fun. With the fiddly gear on this pitch, it doesn't fee... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is hard! I can't remember being so pumped before. That being said, the climbing is great. Crux is about midway through...or is it not pumping out before the chains? You decide.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Little T-Bone (5.9+)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Quality route! Not just one of those....oh I did this because I had my rack with me. Do this over most of the sport routes on the wall.

Bomber #2 cam in the roof crack to start that you place at a good stance. That's probably the crux, but the rest of the climbing is engaging throughout.


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